Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
49 minutes ago, Boosted16 said:

arent you a mod shouldnt you delete ****** when it gets off topic? youre a bad mod

:rollin:

 

They also sometimes hand out vacations for foul mouths.

:thumbs:

 

I'm not just bad at it Boosted, I don't happen to be one.

How funny is that?

:crackup:

 

Posted
14 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

:rollin:

 

They also sometimes hand out vacations for foul mouths.

:thumbs:

 

I'm not just bad at it Boosted, I don't happen to be one.

How funny is that?

:crackup:

 

thats suuuuper funny man it explains a lot too. That being said the mods are ****ing garbage are they not lol. Wheres my slap on the wrist for cussing on the interent. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Very nice what are your thoughts?

 

I got one on the work bench at home that I ported the snout myself to work with a Zl1 throttle.  I just haven't had time to install it yet.

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, JONBLARC7 said:

Very nice what are your thoughts?

 

I got one on the work bench at home that I ported the snout myself to work with a Zl1 throttle.  I just haven't had time to install it yet.

contrary to what all the know it alls with stock trucks above say it performs about the same as the l86 manifold from what i can tell on the butt dyno the only noticeable difference is the vacuum it pulls on the boost gauge. Truck still fries tires through 3rd gear

Edited by Boosted16
Posted
19 hours ago, Boosted16 said:

contrary to what all the know it alls with stock trucks above say it performs about the same as the l86 manifold from what i can tell on the butt dyno the only noticeable difference is the vacuum it pulls on the boost gauge. Truck still fries tires through 3rd gear

What throttle body are you running?

Posted
3 hours ago, JONBLARC7 said:

What throttle body are you running?

l86 87mm. wanted to go with the lt5 but gwatney said porting it wasnt a good idea with boost because the remaining material was so thin

Posted

10-4 that was going to be my next question.  When I was porting mine I had to get rid of the stock O-ring.  I'm just going to silicone to ICT adapter to the snout of the intake. 

Posted
5 hours ago, JONBLARC7 said:

10-4 that was going to be my next question.  When I was porting mine I had to get rid of the stock O-ring.  I'm just going to silicone to ICT adapter to the snout of the intake. 

thatll work my man thats what gwatney reccomends you do if you go to a larger tb i know of a guy with the lt2 manifold with a 103 mm tb and a 200 shot of nitrous so they must be able to withstand some torture

Posted
2 hours ago, Boosted16 said:

thatll work my man thats what gwatney reccomends you do if you go to a larger tb i know of a guy with the lt2 manifold with a 103 mm tb and a 200 shot of nitrous so they must be able to withstand some torture

Yeah except nitrous doesnt pressurize the manifold or the throttle body, unless there’s a backfire.

Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

Yeah except nitrous doesnt pressurize the manifold or the throttle body, unless there’s a backfire.

ah i see im not really familiar with nitrous but i know plenty of people dont like using plastic manifolds with it while others have no issue at all using them

Edited by Boosted16
reasons
  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 4/14/2021 at 9:10 PM, Boosted16 said:

ah i see im not really familiar with nitrous but i know plenty of people dont like using plastic manifolds with it while others have no issue at all using them

What bolts did you use to bolt you LT2 manifold.  I never installed mine,  then I spun some rod bearings.  So I pulled the motor myself and sent it off to the machine shop.  Now it's got forged daimond pistons 👍.  Since I got it torn apart I'm going to go ahead and install my LT2 manifold.  

 

BUT

 

I though our L86 bolts are to short so I went to buy LT1 intake manifold bolts and they want 23$ a piece at the stealership.  At 10 bolts that's more than I paid for the intake.🤬

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     
    • Well I ordered the Autel ts508, and it won't work on my truck I tried all the 2023 and everything it just says vehicle not supported lol   I'm able to send this unit back, so I'm going to do that, then I'll just stop into a some tire shops and if none of them are able to do it, I guess ill have to spend a bunch of money to get a good scanner..... Thanks GM lol
    • Don't need the air tube but that's how everyone sells them. Most places won't remove that one piece and sell it alone. No money to be made. Hoping someone swapped theirs out for a CAI and no longer wants it. Not asking anyone to give it away. Offering to buy it but I don't need the tube. It's held on by a hex head screw and nut. Been all over eBay. 
    • Wait, you guys are changing your oil???
    • If you need that mount looking piece.  You need the air tube.       Cheapest one I see on eBay - 2007-2014 GM Silverado 1500 Air Cleaner Outlet Duct Assembly 5.3L OEM 15901934 | eBay     Same price but free shipping - 2009-2014 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L AIR CLEANER OUTLET DUCT ASSEMBLY 15901934 OEM | eBay
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...