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Like most people I can only go by my experience of over 30 years using dealers for oil changes. During that time I had another independent shop that did my off warranty work for the same time. Most I could actually observe usually through a plate window or outside a bay. I watched them doing the oil changes, lubricants, brake checks. Then provide me with a sheet of check offs and wear patterns with suggestions. I caught a ford dealership messing up that sent me across the highway to GMC. 4 GMCs, 4 Hyundais, 3 Chevys, 1 Mazda, one Camry, one Acura, two Hondas later no complaints. Only one Chevy needed work under warranty. The trailblazer ss lost second gear. Fixed no problems. The independent shop owner was a friend too and did my modifications. And non warranty work. The Ford dealership didn’t do the complete check list and damaged a car in for warranty work. Most people wouldn’t have noticed the damage. I did and pointed it out. No satisfaction on to GM. I don’t doubt people have issues. It’s bad for business. The ford dealer probably lost one dozen vehicle sales to me and my wife. I used one sales person there. For awhile I’d drop by with my new non ford ride he missed on. For nothing more than personal satisfaction.

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42 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Dealers are an assembly line for service. All piece rate work. Piece rate means not enough time to do a proper job IMO.

My son started in shops, then dealers, back to shops. Dealers only cared about money.

I have said before Karnut spent money on a regular basis so they wanted him back. Don't bite the hand that feeds you.

Roll of the dice either way you go and hard to find a good one. This is why I still do it myself.

 

Recently took our Santa Fe in for a recall. Inspected car after service and found minor body damage. Service manager said we have cameras everywhere I will check and get back to you. Never heard a word. 

I must be one lucky guy. I have to admit the Honda, GMC Hyundai dealer do know me by site. 

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The last dealer "free" oil change I had on my leased 2018 Silverado strangely enough had the same oil filter on it as it did when I got there, conveniently wiped clean. The only reason I let them touch the truck was because it was a lease, had I bought it they wouldnt have gotten near it. 

This coupled with all the times I have been at the dealer and watched the lube rack employees check the air in 1 tire and not grease anything...... along with the fact that both my sons worked at dealerships (one for 7 yrs and one for 3 yrs) has led me to my opinion. Its not some abstract theory, its based on experiences duplicated many times. 

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11 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

The last dealer "free" oil change I had on my leased 2018 Silverado strangely enough had the same oil filter on it as it did when I got there, conveniently wiped clean. The only reason I let them touch the truck was because it was a lease, had I bought it they wouldnt have gotten near it. 

This coupled with all the times I have been at the dealer and watched the lube rack employees check the air in 1 tire and not grease anything...... along with the fact that both my sons worked at dealerships (one for 7 yrs and one for 3 yrs) has led me to my opinion. It’s not some abstract theory, its based on experiences duplicated many times. 

I am leaning on not having them even do my “free” first service. I was then thinking maybe letting them just rotate the tires and asking for my free filter lol. 
 

also, as it pertains to this thread, oil still full after Easter road trip. 
 

 

Edited by Pryme
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5 minutes ago, Pryme said:

I am leaning on not having them even do my “free” first service. I was then thinking maybe letting them just rotate the tires and asking for my free filter lol. 
 

also, as it pertains to this thread, oil still full after Easter road trip. 
 

 

Definitely for the tire rotation.  My front axle weighs as much as our Ford Explorer.  The rear axle weighs as much as the Ford Escape we traded in for our truck.  That's a lot of weight...definitely requires heavy duty jacks and HD jack stands.  Be careful my friend if you do it yourself.

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4 minutes ago, Jettech1 said:

Definitely for the tire rotation.  My front axle weighs as much as our Ford Explorer.  The rear axle weighs as much as the Ford Escape we traded in for our truck.  That's a lot of weight...definitely requires heavy duty jacks and HD jack stands.  Be careful my friend if you do it yourself.

I have a 3T Daytona which is a rip off of the snap on. It’s been a great jack. I need some 6T stands but we will see. 
 

my torque wrench goes to 150lbs which is almost what is needed. Kind of a pain or a job though. 

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4 minutes ago, Pryme said:

I have a 3T Daytona which is a rip off of the snap on. It’s been a great jack. I need some 6T stands but we will see. 
 

my torque wrench goes to 150lbs which is almost what is needed. Kind of a pain or a job though. 

Your jack will be fine, just make sure your jack stands are up to par as well.

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3 minutes ago, Jettech1 said:

Your jack will be fine, just make sure your jack stands are up to par as well.

Yeah that’s what I’m saying. I only have some older smaller 3T stands. I would get the much bigger 6T stands if I jack up this truck. 

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If you have a discount tire store near you and buy your tires there. They’ll rotate for free. Even on your new vehicle that you haven’t bought new tires for yet. 

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Just now, KARNUT said:

If you have a discount tire store near you and buy your tires there. They’ll rotate for free. Even on your new vehicle that haven’t bought new tires for yet. 

Yeah I’ve heard that but I haven’t bought any tires there but I will absolutely be going there for tires just for that reason when I need some. 
 

So you’re saying if I bought my car new tires there they would rotate my trucks too? That seems hard to believe. 

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10 minutes ago, Pryme said:

Yeah I’ve heard that but I haven’t bought any tires there but I will absolutely be going there for tires just for that reason when I need some. 
 

So you’re saying if I bought my car new tires there they would rotate my trucks too? That seems hard to believe. 

Well of course, it’s good business. I’ve done it plenty of times. They checked air pressure for free too. I just had my avalanche tires rotated. They’ll probably age out before wearing out. They were new when I bought the truck. I’ve never paid for tire rotation.

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Removing the wheels on an HD is a task but I do my own so I can clean the wheels thoroughly and inspect the brakes. When I did them on my 2021 I put antisieze on the rotor face so the wheels wouldnt stick to the rotors and I also put some on the screws that hold the front rotors onto the hub. I am sure the next owners will appreciate all my hard work. LOL

I treated it as though I was goin g to keep it for 10 yrs but along came someone willing to give me stupid money for it so I sold it and ordered a new one. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/14/2020 at 3:52 PM, bigman32hockey said:

So I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 with the 6.6L engine.  Last night on my way home from Lowe's, I got a message in the DIC that read "Engine Oil Low.  Add Oil."  Luckily, I was only 3 miles or so from home.  I waited two hours for the engine to cool before I checked the oil level on the dip stick.  It didn't even read on the stick.  Luckily, I happened to have two quarts of the Dexos Gen-2 Synthetic 5W-30 at home.  It took both quarts to bring the oil level the the upper mark on the stick.  The truck currently has 7,058 miles on it.  I did the first oil change (at the Dealership as it was free) at 3,518 miles.  The truck doesn't seem to be leaking oil anywhere, as there are no oil spots under it in my garage, and I don't see any smoke while driving that would indicate it's burning oil.  When I start it from cold I do get a bit of white smoke out the muffler, but it quickly goes away and does not continue.  Has anyone else experienced this?  My only explanation is that the technician who did the oil change only put in 6 quarts rather than the required 8.   I never checked the dip stick after the oil change, which I know I should have.  Could this have caused any engine damage?  I have created a spreadsheet to track the mileage and oil levels, just in case I need it down the road.  I'll check it again in 100 miles or so.  Hoping it was just a mistake by the technician and that no harm was done.

I’m having the same problem. Right before my truck is doing or change I will get the light coming on telling me lol lol takes 2 quarts every time every 5000 miles.

 

 

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On 4/11/2023 at 5:37 AM, 64BAwagon said:

Removing the wheels on an HD is a task but I do my own so I can clean the wheels thoroughly and inspect the brakes. When I did them on my 2021 I put antisieze on the rotor face so the wheels wouldnt stick to the rotors and I also put some on the screws that hold the front rotors onto the hub. I am sure the next owners will appreciate all my hard work. LOL

I treated it as though I was goin g to keep it for 10 yrs but along came someone willing to give me stupid money for it so I sold it and ordered a new one. 


There are important reasons not to put antiseize compound on the hub/wheel interface and on the wheel studs or bolts. 
 

The wheel bolt/stud torque is specified based on an assumed level of friction to achieve a desired bolt/stud tension and thereby a desired clamping force between the wheel and the hub face. If the torque is specified for dry threads and you apply that torque with a lubricant of some kind on the threads, the bolt/stud tension induced will go up significantly, and you may yield or even break the bolt or stud. If the specified torque is for dry threads and you decide to use antiseize compound or some other lubricant, you need to use a lower torque, targeting the same clamping force. There are tables on the internet that provide guidance for adjusting torque to achieve the same clamping force with different thread conditions. 
 

The reasons you are trying to achieve a certain clamping force are 1) to hold the wheel on with preload so no gap opens between the wheel and hub under any wheel load condition, and 2) to create sufficient friction between the hub and wheel so that the wheel does not shift on the hub under any load. This friction interface is intended to take the torsional and lateral loads between the wheel and hub so that the bolts/studs are not subjected to significant bending loads, which can cause them to fail.  There is no practical increase to the existing lug torque and clamping force you can do that will restore the intended friction if you have lubricated the wheel/hub interface with antiseize or grease. 
 

Will using antiseize on your wheel/hub interface actually cause your lug bolts/studs to eventually fail from bending fatigue?  Who knows, but by adding compound there you have seriously altered the joint conditions intended by the engineers. I would respectfully suggest you not do that. 

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