Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I know this doesn't help your current situation but If you haven't considered one, get yourself a good dashcam. When I'm in my truck the cam records video and audio. It quite possibly could have caught what happened to your truck and you would have some proof. 
GM Accessories has the Thinkware F800 unit. I have this in my truck, and highly recommend it. It connects to my phone via Bluetooth everytime I get in the truck.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
Where #14 connects to the air filter housing. If you look down the front of the air filter housing you can see it (may need a light).
image.thumb.png.11673937ea04c0b9d1bff2ace9804de4.png
Beat me to it. The connection isn't tight at all. GM uses a foamy gasket at the end of the tube, but it doesn't have a firm connection when inserted into the air box.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
It's a joke. DRL's (Daytime Running Lights) were set to hyperflash or strobe for attention in both of the videos. Some producer's gimmick that makes just about as much sense as your truck hydrolocking driving through a parking lot.
Producers don't do it. It has to do with the cameras. Iirc, something to do with the FPS (frames per second).

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 hours ago, Transient said:

GM Accessories has the Thinkware F800 unit. I have this in my truck, and highly recommend it. It connects to my phone via Bluetooth everytime I get in the truck.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

That’s a good idea either way to have, will be looking into that. Thanks 

Posted
That’s a good idea either way to have, will be looking into that. Thanks 
You're welcome. The F800 kit has both front and rear cameras. There is a cheaper version for just the front. If you buy it at accessories.chevrolet.com you can pay to have the dealer install it at a fixed price. If they go over the time they are billed to install it you won't have to pay the extra time. I had a dealership in San Diego install the light bar on my truck. It is booked at about 2 hours, iirc, but it took them 5 days because the battery in key fob remote caused them issues. I didn't have to pay a single penny of that extra time.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I am going to go out on a limb here and say the engine is not hydrolocked.  It is nearly impossible to do that on a newer vehicle unless the entire intake assembly is UNDER water.  Did you happen to have your oil changed recently?  Valve spring issue?

 

-Eli

Edited by Tjeli
  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 hours ago, Tjeli said:

I am going to go out on a limb here and say the engine is not hydrolocked.  It is nearly impossible to do that on a newer vehicle unless the entire intake assembly is UNDER water.  Did you happen to have your oil changed recently?  Valve spring issue?

 

-Eli

It is not 

I work at a chevy dealer in in the south had a hurricane come thru many months ago guy got his 19 silverado vehicle towed in and his was hydro locked. He had to file a insurance claim and the paid for a new engine

Posted
13 minutes ago, Fubar12 said:

It is not 

I work at a chevy dealer in in the south had a hurricane come thru many months ago guy got his 19 silverado vehicle towed in and his was hydro locked. He had to file a insurance claim and the paid for a new engine

But then again we had over 22 inches of rain in 24 hours during that slow storm 

Guy claimed he only went thru a puddle and I'm sure the puddle was about 4 feet of water...

Posted
On 1/5/2021 at 7:02 AM, Tjeli said:

I am going to go out on a limb here and say the engine is not hydrolocked.  It is nearly impossible to do that on a newer vehicle unless the entire intake assembly is UNDER water.  Did you happen to have your oil changed recently?  Valve spring issue?

 

-Eli

I did have the oil changed maybe 2 weeks prior to this. So the dealer original assumption was that this was under water from the amount of water. I literally was in 3” of water 

Posted
On 1/5/2021 at 7:05 PM, Fubar12 said:

It is not 

I work at a chevy dealer in in the south had a hurricane come thru many months ago guy got his 19 silverado vehicle towed in and his was hydro locked. He had to file a insurance claim and the paid for a new engine

What was the circumstances?

Posted
I did have the oil changed maybe 2 weeks prior to this. So the dealer original assumption was that this was under water from the amount of water. I literally was in 3” of water 
Did they drain the oil and find out if water is in there?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
It is not 
I work at a chevy dealer in in the south had a hurricane come thru many months ago guy got his 19 silverado vehicle towed in and his was hydro locked. He had to file a insurance claim and the paid for a new engine
I had a 2006 Cobalt SS Supercharged with an aftermarket intake that had a water sock on the air filter. I went through a flooded road in a major rain storm once and ended up flooding the engine. Water was literally splashing the bottom of the body. I could hear that sound. Filter was in the fender behind the drivers headlight. When I drove through the flooded road I was as close to the middle (highest point of road) as possible. Water would've never touched the filter and intake tube, yet somehow I managed to suck in some water. That is a feat considering the intake manifold after the supercharger was U-shaped with the lowest point being a little above the top of the oil pan, and the water has to get past 4 water to air to water intercooler laminovas. I also know the shape of our air boxes in the Silverado. If it happened to me, I could see it somehow happening to somebody in a T1xx. Until it's proven one way or another, neither I nor anybody else know what happened to cause this.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
On 1/4/2021 at 8:43 AM, Gus M said:

That’s a good idea either way to have, will be looking into that. Thanks 

For less, you can grab a Viofo A129 Pro and it's 4K using H.265.  249.99 on Amazon and worth every stinkin penny

Edited by Rob Mugs
Posted
On 1/3/2021 at 9:23 AM, amxguy1970 said:

:rolleyes: Yeah because they have two completely different designs and fording capabilities. In any case a 5.3 can get hydro-locked the slightly better 6.2 can as well...

 

In any way there has to be more to the story as people always want to cover their own a*s. A truck just doesn't get hydro-locked in a couple of inches of water without some extreme measure taken as they are tested significantly for that exact issue. 

 

Tyler

I was being sarcastic.

Posted

Ask them to show you actual proof that this happened.  I still don't see how its possible with the intake design on our trucks.  I am leaning towards a mistake they made on your last oil change and they are trying to cover it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,307 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...