Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all, new member here. I just noticed now for the second time that my check engine light flashes only when I'm going up hill and flashes for maybe 10 times and then sure off. It has happened only twice. Does anyone know that it may indicate. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks!!

 

Posted

Accompanied by a Stabilitrak warning too? Yeah read the codes even if it isn't active it should show up in the history as a fault. 

Posted

it will sound weird, but my 2008 did that and I topped up transmission fluid just above the line...never did it again.

Posted

Their code reader may not be good enough to get the codes. Some cheaper scanners will not do it.

 

A flashing check engine light usually means a misfire but it's plausible that it's something else. A good scan tool that can read engine and transmission data together would be wanted.

  • Like 1
Posted

Oh ok, that makes sense. Autozones odb reader looked super cheap. So I guess a garage would have that kind of tool. Im going to ask some buddies in the automotive industry, I may luck out.

 

Posted
On 1/15/2021 at 2:26 PM, rmacdona said:

it will sound weird, but my 2008 did that and I topped up transmission fluid just above the line...never did it again.

I checked the tranny fluid and it did need some fluid. Not much though

Posted
4 hours ago, Elmer-spud said:

I checked the tranny fluid and it did need some fluid. Not much though

is it still flashing?

Posted

Not so far, the odd thing is that it happened intermittently. So I'll keep an eye on it and look for someone with a professional scan tool.

Posted

Could be beginning of catalytic converters blockage— how many miles?

Posted

It has 82k. Generally what mileage would the cat start having problems? Is there a way to clean out the blockage. The last few tanks of gas I've put seafoam in, in attempts to help burn cleaner

Posted

That happened to me...cylinder five misfire. Pulled the plug, looked ok. Happened randomly when I would be driving up a hill on the highway. People around here thought perhaps injectors, maybe torque converter...ended up trading it in at 52,000 miles because I just didn't want to deal with stuff like that on a vehicle with that low of miles. But it would drive me crazy! Stuttering going up a hill, check engine light flashing, then it would just go away. And come back maybe a week or two later. 

Posted

I've experienced a similar situation...was hauling a trailer and accelerating after a roundabout.  Truck didn't down shift (good reason to always have tow/haul mode on when towing lol) and ended up lugging the engine and experienced some serious engine knock...as soon as I let off the throttle the check engine light quit flashing and went away.  Doubt you'd be getting the same issue by simply climbing a hill, but a possibility I suppose.  I've had a cylinder misfire in another vehicle in which case the computer would probably put the engine in limp mode/deactivate that cylinder, and store the check engine light code (light would stay on until the code gets erased).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 501 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...