Jump to content

10” screen replacement?

Raul Encarnacion
 Share

Recommended Posts

Raul Encarnacion Enthusiast

Raul Encarnacion

Posted
Posted

Has anyone tried or know of replacing the 8”  with something bigger? I have a 2018 Sierra 2500HD Denali. I’m just talking about the screen only, retaining everything in the original screen’s capabilities. I see entire radio replacements and with every choice out there, you loose functionality of something. I’ve looked at Alpine, Pioneer, Phoenix, Linkswell, Stinger, MWI, Infotainment, iPad etc and with every one of them, you always loose something. All I want is to replace the screen with something bigger. 
 

  • 2 months later...
Tae Williams New Member

Tae Williams

Posted
Posted

If you into the floating type screens, I had the Kenwood DMX1057 10" installed last week.  The shop used Metra Harness/Interface to keep my steering wheel controls etc.  I love it!

IMG_3223.HEIC

B R A D Enthusiast

B R A D

Posted
Posted
e6f7840b500db43cb93357578f954959.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Totally unrelated but you may want to toss that hand sanitizer as that was one of the brands that had high levels of benzene e3edb2f1f676d09a029b2e986edcac53.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Tae Williams New Member

Tae Williams

Posted
Posted
Totally unrelated but you may want to toss that hand sanitizer as that was one of the brands that had high levels of benzene e3edb2f1f676d09a029b2e986edcac53.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Appreciate that info[emoji1474]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 1 month later...
Raul Encarnacion Enthusiast

Raul Encarnacion

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/23/2021 at 8:14 PM, Tae Williams said:

e6f7840b500db43cb93357578f954959.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ended up doing the same Kenwood except I used an iDatalink Maestro RR2 that kept just about every setting I had. I put in the HDMI cable as well as the USB and had them do the bypass and now we can watch anything while rolling. 

Only recently that I had a problem with Parking Assist. It was working better than the original. There were distances on the screen along with the beeps. But last weekend, it went off. Scmar Schmoys (you know who I'm talking about) looked at it and they're going to reinstall the old radio, turn it back on, and but my new radio back in. I'll find out tomorrow. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Raul Encarnacion Enthusiast

Raul Encarnacion

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 6/9/2021 at 11:57 AM, Raul Encarnacion said:

I ended up doing the same Kenwood except I used an iDatalink Maestro RR2 that kept just about every setting I had. I put in the HDMI cable as well as the USB and had them do the bypass and now we can watch anything while rolling. 

Only recently that I had a problem with Parking Assist. It was working better than the original. There were distances on the screen along with the beeps. But last weekend, it went off. Scmar Schmoys (you know who I'm talking about) looked at it and they're going to reinstall the old radio, turn it back on, and but my new radio back in. I'll find out tomorrow. 

Took it back and they said that the data cable going to the amp came loose. It’s working now.

  • Like 1
Rinkopr Enthusiast

Rinkopr

Posted
Posted

Don’t know how it sounds but I like the linkswel look

 

 

PNG image.png

boettcher40 Enthusiast

boettcher40

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Rinkopr said:

Don’t know how it sounds but I like the linkswel look

 

 

PNG image.png

I've seen a lot of mixed reviews on this HU..

 

One option I've been waiting on is the Stinger Heigh10. Only problem is availability and price. $1100 for the HU, $430 for the dash kit and all wiring.. and it's not even compatible with Bose so that put's me out. I assume you can do something with the LLJ Customs Bose harness but at almost $2K I'd rather have the Alpine restyle.

https://stingerelectronics.com/products/sr-gm14h

  • 4 weeks later...
Sinkhole Enthusiast

Sinkhole

Posted
Posted (edited)

Stinger Electronics now has a Silverado/Sierra specific dash kit for their Heigh10 radio. I have installed the Heigh10, as well as their Elev8 radios in several different vehicles. I am still considering doing this combo as I am looking to replace my older Pioneer AVH-4200NEX, But am also considering sticking with Pioneer, and installing the 9" DMH-WT7600NEX, for one reason. iDatalink Maestro compatibility. I have gotten super used to having it. But if you don't need/want the Maestro Compatibility the Heigh10 is the way to go. The last pic is the Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX 10" in a Sierra.

 

silveradosierra-installation-kit-for-heigh10-multimedia-head-unit-366569_2048x.jpg

silveradosierra-installation-kit-for-heigh10-multimedia-head-unit-986972_2048x.jpg

105030191_3499277140096514_1786506635600888370_n.jpg

Edited by Sinkhole
  • Like 2
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted

That system looks great and I have installed a few NEX Pioneers in my old Chrysler convertible and loved them but, on my Chevy, I would hate to lose the MyLink part of the infotainment head unit. I use it quite a bit with the myChevrolet app.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...