Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I will have my truck in a few weeks, so I haven't gotten to listen to this system yet.  But if it is like the Bose system in my 2013 Camaro (and my previous Silverado), adding a sub is all that I needed to be happy.  Adding the sub allows you to reduce the bass output to the other speakers and give you more room (ie: volume) before you start getting distortion.

Posted
On 2/21/2021 at 5:34 PM, Pswa320 said:

So your using the bose up front and kickers in rear?

 

 

Yes sir. The rears still don't produce any bass but at least you can hear the highs now.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/22/2021 at 8:48 PM, GS357 S said:

This sounds like a great solution.  Were the JL Audio a direct replacement speaker for the factory Bose?  Did you lose some power assuming you went with a higher ohm speaker?

I ordered from Crutchfield who provided the adapters for mounting and wire harnesses. I also used window caulk around the  mounts to prevent vibration. Definitely did not lose power. Can turn the volume up significantly higher and still have clean sound. Substantial improvement over the Bose speakers  

Posted
On 2/22/2021 at 7:50 PM, Dunn said:

I just ordered this exact same setup from crutchfield today for my elevation...like $300....I dont need a stupid auido system... just want a clean sound and dont have to crank volume, i know you can get crazy with these things

 

good to hear your happy and I dont even have the Bose, did you do it yourself or have it installed? and did you dynamat whole door or just where the speakers are?

Installed myself. I’ve always just put the dynomat on the interior (actually backside of external part of door) metal, never on the interior door panel (plastic). I did as much dynomat as I could reach. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Would replacing the stock “non Bose” speakers help at all, or since there is no amp without the Bose system, I would really need an amp?

Posted

The doors are actually really well deadened from the factory. I added some (as well as some Dynoliner on the door panel back to mitigate rattles) but it didn’t need a whole lot IMO. Think there are bigger advantages to using it elsewhere such as the floor.

 

Changing just the rears on my Bose brightened it up quite a bit back there. It was necessary because the Kicker sub was really overpowering back there when the back speakers did basically nothing.
 

I was eying these mini amps up which would probably help even more, but sort of hear mixed reviews and I’m pretty much ready to move on to the next truck:

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-kctCW6cqCMO/p_575PM100X1/Rockford-Fosgate-PM100X1.html?XVINQ=GLX&awkw=216564569785&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=111687883825&awdv=m&awug=9018811&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9iBBhCJARIsAE9qRtCqzgLjQ3aEYtmMpDVAKzJAhTUYop0h5V1he2JS1IdVp7X8Gl0htDEaAu3fEALw_wcB

Posted
3 hours ago, ero2 said:

Would replacing the stock “non Bose” speakers help at all, or since there is no amp without the Bose system, I would really need an amp?

this is what i am about to do, my speakers just came in today....look very nice and magnet is much bigger.....

 

also they are suppose to work great without bose system, it seems like it has plenty of power just crappy speakers.......i had HD radio in my last truck and it was marginally better than what we have in elevation.....think any decent quality speaker will be big improvement and if you want even more throw an amp, sub or whatever you want.....stock speakers are pretty cheap

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/23/2021 at 9:19 PM, BassDaggett said:

I ordered from Crutchfield who provided the adapters for mounting and wire harnesses. I also used window caulk around the  mounts to prevent vibration. Definitely did not lose power. Can turn the volume up significantly higher and still have clean sound. Substantial improvement over the Bose speakers  

Thanks

Posted

Keep us posted on how the factory-replacement quality speakers work out.  Good option to have but I've always gone full build...not sure I want to drop the $$$$ yet.

 

Posted (edited)

So reading through this, I think the sub is pretty decent, but I would really like better mids, and especially clearer highs. Did you just drop the JLs in using the Bose power?

Edited by Donald Plaisance
answered my own question
Posted

I recently added a 10" sub and amp. I find myself turning down the bass knob quite a bit. i also added audio frog gs25 up on the dash and that really helped out with clarity. i deadened the rear doors and added the c1. they are a lot clearer than stock but aren't really loud. next up is sound deadening the front doors really well with soundskin and see how that improves the stock 6x9 before i decide if i want to swap those out. they don't sound bad now. i do have the radio eq bass set at -8 or so

Posted

i put in the doors and its a bit better but not huge.....i didnt do any sound deadening and just slapped them in really quick as i was in a rush (stupid and i knew i should have waited and did it right).....i still have tweeters to do and will redo doors with dynamat, weather seal, and foam surrounds......i am sure an amp would help as the bose has one and mine doesn't have one or not that good....

 

for now tweeters and I will refine the door install to help....see where that ends up

 

i really notice the tweeters now where with stock speakers they didnt seem to stand out so much from the rest.....

 

the plates behind door handles are really fragile and tabs break super easy FYI.....

 

 

Posted (edited)

From what I've read, the base radio is awful.  And yes, I would plan on an Amp and speakers.  I can't see the base radio having the power to drive a good speaker.

 

Having said that, you could upgrade the speakers and then see how you like it.

Edited by Jim E
Posted

If you want a good sound system I would think that is probably best.....not sure stock speakers could handle an Amp, or for how long......

 

Sure mine will sound a bit better doing things I mentioned I would do but yeah believe it needs more power.....  am sure there are plenty of qualified people here in stereo modifications here....I am not one, lol.....just the basics

Type of  music you listen too as well.....

 

Still glad I have better speakers though it just wasn't that big a difference

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 420 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...