Jump to content

Most mild exhaust

RPaul
 Share

Recommended Posts

RPaul Enthusiast

RPaul

Posted
Posted

Have a GMC Denali and don’t think a full borla exhaust really fits, not sure a flow master muffler fits either with the Denali vibe.

 

Just looking to bump up sound as little as possible thru maybe the Borla XS muffler.

 

what are some pretty tame exhaust options?

 

Just find it weird you can barely hear the truck running 😂

cltsig Enthusiast

cltsig

Posted
Posted

I hear you.  A few of my neighbors have pre-2015 Yukon Denali's and they have a nice rumble during cold startup and even warm.  My 2020 AT4 6.2 sounds like a sewing machine.

reardiff Enthusiast

reardiff

Posted
Posted

Borla Touring?  This is the quietest of the Borla mufflers and is what what comes on the performance Exhaust (at least on the 2014 - 2018) and I have on mine.  To me this is perfect, has a nice sound and tone like it should but not overly obnoxious  at all even on cold start ups.  You can not hear it at all at highway speeds, no drone, but you can definitely tell it's there when you get on it.  Combine that with the dual side exit polished tips, what's not to like about it :) Other than the price.  Next step up would be the S-Type if you want a little more sound.  Attak is the loudest which is too loud for me.

econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted

Yeah the GM Performance catback (aka Borla Touring) is the way to go here. I've had it about 8 months on my 2019 5.3L RST. It is perfect for someone who wants some growl on demand (aka right foot down), but cruises quietly. 

Robby James Enthusiast

Robby James

Posted
Posted

Muffler delete with resonators intact, under $100 bucks and sounds great, no warranty issues etc.

Save cash the full exhaust etc is pricey if just chasing sound and performance gains seem to be minimal at best.

GM "performance exhaust" AND intake with MAF reprogram is only worth 15hp for 2k plus bucks.

Cut the muffler and put the AFE muffler delete pipe in first😀

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

Almost all of the gains on the GMPP package is from the exhaust. 13 of the 15HP, and all but 1 LB-FT of TQ are on the exhaust side. 
 

Agree that the GMPP catback is probably the mildest, but it still has some sound for sure. I was actually surprised when I first got it. Cold starts are a little rowdy. 

Jacob Capra New Member

Jacob Capra

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is a good video to show what the muffler delete can do. Don't order the AFE, I'm actually getting mine done in a week by a local exhaust shop for $75, plus it will be welded in, so no issues with leaking like you'll see in the video. If you do that, just make sure they cut out that flapper valve!

Edited by Jacob Capra
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,078 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • JAI3
      2016 Sierra 5.3L L83 new injectors now runs rich.

      By JAI3 · Posted

      I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Coastie05
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No, but don't skimp on safe! 😉 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...