Jump to content

6.6 gas and Truck Camper

RyanCawdor

By RyanCawdor
in 6.6L Gas V8 (L8T)

 Share

Recommended Posts

bshort Enthusiast

bshort

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, Ray Pickle said:

Tge GM doesn't need a "camper pkg" its payload and GVWR are already higher than either Ford or Ram for like equipped trucks.

GMC Double 4WD  gcwr 24,000, max hitch 14,500, max 5'r 16,740, max goose 16,740, max payload 3,747

F250 Supercab 4WD  gcwr 28,000, max hitch 15,000, max 5'r 18,800, max payload 3460

 

Actual facts.  

RyanCawdor Enthusiast

RyanCawdor

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for confirming GM's higher payload.  That's what's important to me along with a better ride and no death wobble 👍

Edited by RyanCawdor
bshort Enthusiast

bshort

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, RyanCawdor said:

Thanks for confirming GM's higher payload.  That's what's important to me along with a better ride and no death wobble 👍

287 more for the GMC.   "Better ride" is subjective.  Death wobble is an exaggeration, kinda like the undersized tie rods on GM HD trucks.   

  • 3 weeks later...
Timandgailp Enthusiast

Timandgailp

Posted
Posted

Got a new 2020 Chev 3500 2months ago and like it very much. Plenty of power and rides great empty or with my maxed out camper. I added airbags to the suspension to level the ride with my camper loaded. Still rides fine.

  • 5 weeks later...
hdhp Enthusiast

hdhp

Posted
Posted

Hi Rayn I ordered a 22 Silverado 2500HD 6.6 gas. I will have a pop up slide in  truck camper with apx 2000 lbs total weight fully loaded. The payload of said truck is between 3600-3900 depending on what options you select. You should be ok here is a linkmto some payload numbers for 2500HD's   

 

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=AOaemvLl-aosVc0UPwbSu6QwE8pCd47bnQ:1630438683467&q=2022+Chevrolet+Silverado+2500HD+LTZ+6.6L+V8+4WD+Crew+Cab+Long+Box&stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAONgFmJQ4tVP1zc0LLQwzTDJsCzSkslOttJPLC3Jz80vySxL1U8qzcxJsSpIrMzJT0x5xNjLyi3w8sc9Yalm1klrTl5j_MPChVeH0GNmLjbXvJLMkkqhG8xCV5m5-HxdwpyDUovzc0pLMvPzhJS4uJzzc3JSk8E8ESkhLgH9ZLiAfnJiUbGQPooaRSl5LllkNRDLkzJzUuPBlhcLmaBoUJNS4VLCoSE3PyU1J74yFWSNFYouHSktLg2CuuKLSypzUouFLFD0aklpcKkR1ltSlJkr5MrF7l-QWpSYlyJkBTRGDBQ-vqm5SalFxf5pHplAmaLkjEohKXg4CkjxcfGAYs2ooCwn1yLZqIqJgwGoE26MrpA2Fy8kmHMSS1JTQvKFxOC6eaS4uDj0c_UNTMsrITptETqNhAzQdUrDdQpK8XNBUkuSeUVORoZxIUg7ELMq5RnF77o07RxbpCADCLAHOUhpaglxsXsW--QnJ-YInn3-LP7dq_f2WsJcHCGJFfl5-bmVgsrbO9mDBB_ZKyly_u67bq-z5JW9oOtM5gOhW1QOSLAqMGgwGka9-jv_c63gAS2GA4xMTftWHGJj4WAUYLBi0mAE2c2ziNXRyMDISME5I7WsKD8ntUQhODOnDOiXlHwFI1MDAw8XBZ-QKAUzPTMfhTALBZNwFwXnotRyBefEJAWf_Lx0Baf8iglsjAAC5g43CQMAAA&sa=X&lei=PYUuYfTIO_yy5NoPuPiIuAI

 

Wow that is a big link but well worth it!

 

HDHP

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted

The problem you have with pickup campers is going over FGAWR not your payload/GVW.  That is why most camper packages have higher front spring rates.  The higher front spring rates are good for roll as well.

 

#iworkforGM 

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

I’m not sure your 2500hd will end up with a payload of 3600 to 3900. My 3500hd cc lb srw with camper springs has a gvwr of 11,500 and a payload rating of 4,054 lbs. I would guess you would be closer to 3,000.  My slide in camper weight rating on the glove box camper sticker is 3,304 lbs. I don’t think your 2000 lb camper will exceed you camper weight limit so you should be ok. 

  • 4 months later...
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

i would just get 3500 for that......why not rides same as 2500 and increase all way around on towing/payload

 

 

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

dbl post

 

 

Edited by Dunn
dbl post
  • 2 years later...
Phillymike New Member

Phillymike

Posted
Posted
On 7/8/2021 at 10:03 PM, RyanCawdor said:

Is anyone using a new 6.6 gas to haul a truck camper?  If so, how does it handle the hills?  I've read nearly all of the towing posts but couldn't find anything on hauling a truck camper.  I plan on buying a truck camper that will have a wet weight of around 4,500 lbs.  I'm debating on new diesel or gas Denali DRW truck.  I used to have a 2019 High Country Duramax DRW but took advantage of the high resale value because I was not using the truck much.  The next truck I get will only be driven around 7,500 miles a year camping and local trips.  I loved the Duramax but I was getting nervous about potential costly repairs after warranty.  Based on my usage I'm leaning towards gas but don't want to have regrets.

 

I was looking at the Ford 7.3 gas but there's no way I'm going to settle for that terrible ride.  I test drove a couple of the Fords and the ride was hideous.  I've been a Chevy guy and have gotten use to the great ride it has so I plan to stick with GM.  

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Phillymike New Member

Phillymike

Posted
Posted
Just now, Phillymike said:

 

Ryan..which  did you go with and how is it working for you

I currently have a 6.0 2016 Gas 3500 short bed hauling a 9 5 k 5th wheel  occasionally and am looking for a dually to haul a truck camper.

Trying to move to a site camper (near a lake) then use the truck camper for the state parks & Corp of engineers weekender use.

Somebody's gonna tag this and say (get a class c)  & smaller truck.

I understand the thinking..but I like my remote access w 4x4 as well as opportunity to haul a boat or trailer.

 

I'm 59 now and hope someday to drive from Maine to GA in the fall fishing along the way.

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
MORSNO Enthusiast

MORSNO

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Phillymike said:

 

I understand the thinking..but I like my remote access w 4x4 as well as opportunity to haul a boat or trailer.

 

I'm 59 now and hope someday to drive from Maine to GA in the fall fishing along the way.

 

 

Someone who understands why so many of us have truck campers!  The ability to easily tow, 4x4, way more manuverable, much easier to navigate parking lots, primitive campgrounds, boondock, and drive with much less stress.  Edit: I also turn 59 next month.

 

IMG_0837.JPG

Edited by MORSNO
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...