Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I assume that this has already been talked about but I can't find a forum here. I made the mistake of using my multiflex tailgate while I had my trailer hitch on, OUCH! Your multiflex tailgate face will rest on your hitch and It's going to leave a scratch. I really think the dealer should have warned me about this problem (I'm not the only one to do this). I plan to cover it with black Plasti Dip.    Also, I love being able to simply step up into the bed of my truck, the multiflex is great.       And yes, I did it twice.....

20210906_091821.jpg

Posted

I think there is a warning sticker on the inside of the tailgate jam IIRC, but lot of good it does there after you've already opened the tailgate. They do sell hitch covers that attach to the tailgates wiring and will not allow the top of the tailgate to drop when an item is inserted in the receiver.

Posted

With all the technology already on the truck, I agree GM should have added a safety to keep it small part from opening when the hitch is installed.

 

I was not sold on the multi-gate but it was on the truck and the truck had all the other options I wanted. After using it a few times I really liked it. I also made the same mistake of not removing the slip in hitch I got lucky it only bumped the black plastic where the buttons are and left no marks.

 

Now the first thing I do is remove the hitch after use!

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I knew after hearing about this issue either I was going to do it or someone else, it was just of a matter of when lol.....

 

Should of been something GM had a solution for before it left the factory but didn't. Went with one of the aftermarket solutions before I was swearing, works well

 

https://tailgatefix.com/

 

-Grover67

  • Like 1
Posted
 

I knew after hearing about this issue either I was going to do it or someone else, it was just of a matter of when lol.....

 

Should of been something GM had a solution for before it left the factory but didn't. Went with one of the aftermarket solutions before I was swearing, works well

 

https://tailgatefix.com/

 

-Grover67

 

Did you get the auto or manual version? Also any reason you chose that vs the one from Curt?

Posted
55 minutes ago, fastk9dad said:

 

Did you get the auto or manual version? Also any reason you chose that vs the one from Curt?

I would think he went with that because everyone trusts Bruno Massel, the fellow on the right in the video.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted
 

 

Did you get the auto or manual version? Also any reason you chose that vs the one from Curt?

 

Went with the auto version. Don't remember just that it would work for what I needed and it has.

 

-Grover67

  • Like 2
Posted
16 hours ago, Otherguy said:

I bought this one: https://www.curtmfg.com/tailgate-sensor

 

Works great and looks good as well.

I also went this route.  Good product.  Easy to install.  When receiver cover is open (hitch tongue inserted), it allows main tailgate to come down, but not smaller section that will hit.  Perfect solution.

Posted
1 hour ago, GullLakeMi said:

I also went this route.  Good product.  Easy to install.  When receiver cover is open (hitch tongue inserted), it allows main tailgate to come down, but not smaller section that will hit.  Perfect solution.

Been interested in this. Are you saying, when the cover is opened, it disables the inner gate? So a person won't be able to use a plastic cover/novelty/advertisement plug? Like this?

image000000(1).jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, gemarsh said:

Been interested in this. Are you saying, when the cover is opened, it disables the inner gate? So a person won't be able to use a plastic cover/novelty/advertisement plug? Like this?

image000000(1).jpg

 

True the Curt has its own cover that is part of the set up, so NO aftermarket cover could be used.

After reviewing both the Tailgatefix it looks like you could still use a cover of your choice, plus I think it looks like a cleaner install.

Posted

Agree.  The cover on the Curt product is critical to its function.  This setup does have easy to install, oem type connectors.


I believe the tailgate fix option is more splicing into the purple wire.?.

Posted (edited)

Both are plug and play, Both look like the can be broken fairly easy as they are just plastic.. the tailgate fix looks very close to were the safety chain hooks. Curt looks as if you were off just a bit backing up to your trailer you would brake it off.

 

Looks like a simple switch that would trip when the hitch is slid into the receiver would be better.

 

I suggest anyone interested watch both install videos. 

Edited by WeGone
  • 9 months later...
Posted

After reviewing these unless you get the manual either of these will prevent the innergate latch release when the plug is inserted.  If you have a plug w/o pin to trigger the tailgate fix it might work too.

 

Couple of thoughts on the Curt model (1) cut the decorative plug off and use trim adhesive to attach it over the curt cover or (2) install a magnet on the back of the decorative plug same as the curt cover to allow the inner gate operation with the plug installed.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...