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Posted (edited)

Hey all, first time poster.

 

Recently picked up a 2011 Silverado 1500 5.3 4x4 with 250k miles real cheap from an auction. Overall it's runs and drives great, no engine ticks and shifts great during a quick test drive. I gave it a quick once over and it seems to have been neglected a bit, fluids are quite dark all around and a laundry list of minor repairs to do. It does need some big ticket items such as tires, windshield and a steering rack(leaking out the boot). Im planning on changing all the fluids, filters and maintenance items starting with engine and trans. I understand I definitely am taking a risk on this truck so I want to ask you all what are somethings I should look into or consider before I sink too much money into it👍

Edited by DarkestHour6
Posted

Big ticket items to me are motor, trans, differential front/rear, and transfer case.  Everything else are normal wear items.  If those 4 things check out, and your body of the truck is in decent shape, then you in my opinion are in a good spot to start spending.  Just a side note, you might want to look into the disabling AFM if not already done since you dont have the tick yet, but that is pretty common for your truck.   

 

Things you should consider doing first, not in any order:

 

*Tranny fluid exchange full swap (not flush) w/ filter

*Shocks, front and rear Id recommend Bilstein 5100s

*Drive shaft u-joint replacements at least the rear.

*oil Pressure sensor w/ filter (located under sensor)

*differential fluid replacement

 

Without needing to list these items, such as brakes, rotors, brake lines, those types of items should be inspected as you are doing the work listed above.  If need replaced or they are beyond their half life, change them out.  Good luck with your truck, look forward to reading your progress.

 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, DarkestHour6 said:

Hey all, first time poster.

 

Recently picked up a 2011 Silverado 1500 5.3 4x4 with 250k miles real cheap from an auction. Overall it's runs and drives great, no engine ticks and shifts great during a quick test drive. I gave it a quick once over and it seems to have been neglected a bit, fluids are quite dark all around and a laundry list of minor repairs to do. It does need some big ticket items such as tires, windshield and a steering rack(leaking out the boot). Im planning on changing all the fluids, filters and maintenance items starting with engine and trans. I understand I definitely am taking a risk on this truck so I want to ask you all what are somethings I should look into or consider before I sink too much money into it👍

 

Why did you buy this truck other than it was "real cheap"? I mean what is your vision for it? Flip it? Basic transportation? Build a 'one off"? Work? What do you see this truck doing for you? Clumsy questions I know but the endgame is important when you take on something like this...don't you think? 

 

I'll toss this out there while you puzzle the first question. Given it's mileage, the fact you like the way it drives and runs says someone was looking out for it. How much so a picture shared of it 'as is' would be useful. Agreed?  

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, DarkestHour6 said:

Hey all, first time poster.

 

Recently picked up a 2011 Silverado 1500 5.3 4x4 with 250k miles real cheap from an auction. Overall it's runs and drives great, no engine ticks and shifts great during a quick test drive. I gave it a quick once over and it seems to have been neglected a bit, fluids are quite dark all around and a laundry list of minor repairs to do. It does need some big ticket items such as tires, windshield and a steering rack(leaking out the boot). Im planning on changing all the fluids, filters and maintenance items starting with engine and trans. I understand I definitely am taking a risk on this truck so I want to ask you all what are somethings I should look into or consider before I sink too much money into it👍

How much is too much?  If the bones are good, there's no limit.  But like Grump said, what's the plan man?

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Why did you buy this truck other than it was "real cheap"? I mean what is your vision for it? Flip it? Basic transportation? Build a 'one off"? Work? What do you see this truck doing for you? Clumsy questions I know but the endgame is important when you take on something like this...don't you think? 

 

I'll toss this out there while you puzzle the first question. Given it's mileage, the fact you like the way it drives and runs says someone was looking out for it. How much so a picture shared of it 'as is' would be useful. Agreed?  

Hey great question and I definitely should have mentioned what my plans are. So my current truck is an old 1990 Jeep Comanche which has been a fun little toy for hunting, tinkering and anytime I needed a truck box for something. That said, it's still a small 30 year old truck and I wanted something more modern that can handle an open car hauling trailer and potentially a snow plow in the future. I was in the market for a used 3/4 ton truck for that purpose, so I really just bought this Silverado on a whim without properly inspecting it or anything. Figured it'll either be a good bridge truck until i can find what I'm looking for or it'll be a dud and it's not a big loss

I may have lucked out though. Perhaps my search is over since I looked at the rpo codes this morning and it's got G80 + GU6(3.42 axle), K5L(HD cooling package) and KNP(HD trans cooling) so it appears it'll be up to the task!

 

2 hours ago, Sharpz said:

Big ticket items to me are motor, trans, differential front/rear, and transfer case.  Everything else are normal wear items.  If those 4 things check out, and your body of the truck is in decent shape, then you in my opinion are in a good spot to start spending.  Just a side note, you might want to look into the disabling AFM if not already done since you dont have the tick yet, but that is pretty common for your truck.   

 

Things you should consider doing first, not in any order:

 

*Tranny fluid exchange full swap (not flush) w/ filter

*Shocks, front and rear Id recommend Bilstein 5100s

*Drive shaft u-joint replacements at least the rear.

*oil Pressure sensor w/ filter (located under sensor)

*differential fluid replacement

 

Without needing to list these items, such as brakes, rotors, brake lines, those types of items should be inspected as you are doing the work listed above.  If need replaced or they are beyond their half life, change them out.  Good luck with your truck, look forward to reading your progress.

 

 

Hey, thanks for the response. The body is a pretty good shape, only has some minor rust along the back wheel wells but nothing serious. I still have to raise the truck to take a better look at the frame but i rolled under it where I could and not much rust. We don't salt our roads here in Alberta and I'm grateful for that. I've heard of the troublesome AFM on these trucks, i know you can disable them through an aftermarket OBD2 plug(which it doesn't have). Is there anyway I can confirm if a kit was ever installed?

Edited by DarkestHour6
Posted

Why did you buy it?

Because it was cheap or is there a plan for using it?

 

Posted

Top on my list would be disable AFM either via a tuner or a plug in device like the Range AFM Disabler.  Once you do that, monitor the oil level after a fresh oil change over a 2,000mi period.  If she burns more than 1 quart in that timeframe, might need some internal love to the engine (pistons and rings) to stop the consumption.  There are some chemical methods that can be used to reduce oil consumption like GM top engine cleaner piston soaking or BG Products EPR followed with a can of 44K. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, newdude said:

Top on my list would be disable AFM either via a tuner or a plug in device like the Range AFM Disabler.  Once you do that, monitor the oil level after a fresh oil change over a 2,000mi period.  If she burns more than 1 quart in that timeframe, might need some internal love to the engine (pistons and rings) to stop the consumption.  There are some chemical methods that can be used to reduce oil consumption like GM top engine cleaner piston soaking or BG Products EPR followed with a can of 44K. 

My general rule regarding a used vehicle purchase is the 500$ per month cost. Not counting gas and general maintenance. You can finance a new vehicle with extended warranty for that amount. I use the same equation for a used vehicle, paying cash or financing. I've actually had seemingly good used vehicles cost more. Surprisingly I would be wary of that vehicle as a gift staying under that amount. My brother in law keeps his GM trucks and SUVs to about that mileage. Unloading them reluctantly because they’re used up. I’m mean reluctantly, almost in tears. He’s that frugal.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, newdude said:

Top on my list would be disable AFM either via a tuner or a plug in device like the Range AFM Disabler.  Once you do that, monitor the oil level after a fresh oil change over a 2,000mi period.  If she burns more than 1 quart in that timeframe, might need some internal love to the engine (pistons and rings) to stop the consumption.  There are some chemical methods that can be used to reduce oil consumption like GM top engine cleaner piston soaking or BG Products EPR followed with a can of 44K. 

 

Question newdude; is it possible that given the mileage and it's lack of "known" issues, to  date, that it might not use oil now to a degree that would cause alarm? Perhaps do the oil test first before fixing something that may not be broke? Granted, you have tons more experience with these than I and maybe it's just silly to think it's okay. I don't mind being wrong on this. I really wouldn't know. Just thinking  and yea, I know, sometimes thought thinks wrong 😉 

 

9 hours ago, DarkestHour6 said:

Here's some pics of the truck. It's the auction pictures so I blocked out the watermark.

 

43340849_11.jpg

43340849_19.jpg

 

 

I'd start with a top to bottom, inside out and upside down cleaning. You sure this isn't a flood truck? It's got more mud inside than dirt tires get outside. 

 

Seriously, no matter what you plan to do cleaning it everywhere, including under hood, helps you see what's/what and just more enjoyable to work on. She gets the three little pigs award. 😉 

 

Would give me the creepy crawlers just to sit in it. 

:crackup:

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Question newdude; is it possible that given the mileage and it's lack of "known" issues, to  date, that it might not use oil now to a degree that would cause alarm? Perhaps do the oil test first before fixing something that may not be broke? Granted, you have tons more experience with these than I and maybe it's just silly to think it's okay. I don't mind being wrong on this. I really wouldn't know. Just thinking  and yea, I know, sometimes thought thinks wrong 😉 

 

 

I'd start with a top to bottom, inside out and upside down cleaning. You sure this isn't a flood truck? It's got more mud inside than dirt tires get outside. 

 

Seriously, no matter what you plan to do cleaning it everywhere, including under hood, helps you see what's/what and just more enjoyable to work on. She gets the three little pigs award. 😉 

 

Would give me the creepy crawlers just to sit in it. 

:crackup:

 

Oh yea it's bad, trust me it looks even worse up close. It needs a cleaning real bad. There's no evidence of flooding and the history report doesn't show any so I think I'm safe there. I'll definitely keep an eye on the oil consumption. I'll also run a compression test when I get around to changing the plugs and wires.

Edited by DarkestHour6
  • Like 2
Posted
12 hours ago, DarkestHour6 said:

Oh yea it's bad, trust me it looks even worse up close. It needs a cleaning real bad. There's no evidence of flooding and the history report doesn't show any so I think I'm safe there. I'll definitely keep an eye on the oil consumption. I'll also run a compression test when I get around to changing the plugs and wires.

 

Sounds like you know your way around machines. Good...do a cylinder leak down test. That will tell you in a hurry how much cheddar is left in the wheel. 😉 

  • Like 1
Posted

Well it desperately needs a rear brake job. Pulled the drums off for a quick inspection and had a seized shoe on the left drum, no friction material left one of the pads. Had to cut the brake hardware so I could remove the drum. Surprising there wasn't any noise! Also needs wheel cylinders, axle seals and park brake cables on both sides. Going to flush the brake fluid at the same time. Front brakes are good, looks like they were done recently.

 

IMG_20211030_150947.jpg

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