Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So for some reason my 2011 gmc sierra lately has been going into v4 at random times just for a few seconds then back to a v8. I took it the the GMC dealership and they told me nothing was wrong with the AFM but it still is doing it very randomly and when it goes back from 4v into v8 it takes a second and jerks a little bit. should I just get a AFM disabler or what im so lost on what is wrong.

Posted

Obviously its your truck, and your choice.  I think the general consensus amongst early AFM trucks is to disable it, I think mainly to prevent the lifter tick issue.  I honestly dont know why anyone would want this feature in a full size truck anyway. 

Posted

From what I have read most folks disable the AFM before it destroys the engine. I think there is a way to turn it off with the right scanner.

Posted
18 hours ago, Reed_2021 said:

So for some reason my 2011 gmc sierra lately has been going into v4 at random times just for a few seconds then back to a v8. I took it the the GMC dealership and they told me nothing was wrong with the AFM but it still is doing it very randomly and when it goes back from 4v into v8 it takes a second and jerks a little bit. should I just get a AFM disabler or what im so lost on what is wrong.

 

That's normal operation.  It's not really random, certain parameters are met allowing it to turn on and then off. 

 

If you feel it, it's probably time for a new driver's side engine mount.  Dirty old oil is AFMs worst enemy, keep it clean and fresh and the system is quite reliable.

  • Like 1
Posted

also when driving it today it seem to get stuck in v4 and take a second to get back into v8 i do have a small cut in the exhuast could that effect it?

Posted
2 hours ago, swathdiver said:

 

That's normal operation.  It's not really random, certain parameters are met allowing it to turn on and then off. 

 

If you feel it, it's probably time for a new driver's side engine mount.  Dirty old oil is AFMs worst enemy, keep it clean and fresh and the system is quite reliable.

 

The above? That is rock solid advice.

 

Don't trouble trouble until trouble troubles you. 

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Reed_2021 said:

just curious what would the divers side engine mount do?

 

Allow you to feel more engine vibrations such as when AFM kicks in and out.  The mounts are fluid filled and last about 8 years or so.

 

1 hour ago, Reed_2021 said:

also when driving it today it seem to get stuck in v4 and take a second to get back into v8 i do have a small cut in the exhuast could that effect it?

 

Do you mean the motor was cruising along in V4 and then you stepped on it and it took more than a second to light off the other four cylinders?  If yours were mine, I would put my Tech-2 on it and see what's going on with the AFM VLOM solenoids.  

 

When these fail or slow down and get out of time, they take out the lifters which can lead to bigger problems.  Anytime repairs are made in this area, it is SOP to replace the VLOM and all of the lifter trays.

 

Happen to be in Florida?

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

 

Allow you to feel more engine vibrations such as when AFM kicks in and out.  The mounts are fluid filled and last about 8 years or so.

 

 

Do you mean the motor was cruising along in V4 and then you stepped on it and it took more than a second to light off the other four cylinders?  If yours were mine, I would put my Tech-2 on it and see what's going on with the AFM VLOM solenoids.  

 

When these fail or slow down and get out of time, they take out the lifters which can lead to bigger problems.  Anytime repairs are made in this area, it is SOP to replace the VLOM and all of the lifter trays.

 

Happen to be in Florida?

Yeah it takes a little to set off the other 4 so I should check the code and see if anything pops up? I can look at the code at o Riley’s right?

Posted
2 hours ago, Reed_2021 said:

Yeah it takes a little to set off the other 4 so I should check the code and see if anything pops up? I can look at the code at o Riley’s right?

There's no code or CEL that comes on when this happens...you have to have a Tech2 scanner to read the status of everything "live"

  • Like 2
Posted

I took it to the dealership to get checked but they said their is nothing wrong with my AFM but yet my truck still takes a second to go from v4 back into v8. could it be the VLOM filter or even the lifters themselves?

Posted
52 minutes ago, Reed_2021 said:

I took it to the dealership to get checked but they said their is nothing wrong with my AFM but yet my truck still takes a second to go from v4 back into v8. could it be the VLOM filter or even the lifters themselves?

 

What it could be is you feeling the converter clutch unlock at the point of switching which it is suppose to do. 

  • Like 2
Posted
9 hours ago, Reed_2021 said:

maybe but it just started doing it 

 

Here's a thought. Without a Tech-2 you have  no idea 'when' the switch signal is being generated. Meaning the comment, "Over a second" to switch is without reference to anything but your expectations. 

 

11 hours ago, Reed_2021 said:

I took it to the dealership to get checked but they said their is nothing wrong with my AFM but yet my truck still takes a second to go from v4 back into v8. could it be the VLOM filter or even the lifters themselves?

 

They did actually looked at it and didn't find anything wrong with the AFM.

 

I'd believe them. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...