Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2020 gmc denali HD has heat but right vent on drivers side blows cold. Tried cycling the system through all its functions with no change. Just the 1 vent will not blow heat the dealer said the actuator doors are working and want to remove the dash to replace the heater core. All the other vents blow heat just not the right drivers side so I thought it was unusual to replace the heater core. Any insight is appreciated

Posted

I'm not knowledgable enough on this to be given credibility, but something tells me you're correct.  If the problem was the heater core all the vents would have cold air blowing out of them.  It does sound like one of the blend door actuators are not working.  However, as I indicated at the beginning of my post, I don't know enough to know for sure.

Posted

Well, just as a FYI, not the same Vehicle but my Wrangler blows hot on passenger side and cold on drivers and it's a very well known problem with Wranglers., the heater core gets clogged on one side and the vents that go to the drivers side go across the cold side of the Core and blow cold air, hot air on passenger side, replaced the heater core and problem solved. With that being said I find it hard to believe that a heater core in a 2020 truck could be clogged but I guess it's possible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Some clarification may help with some of these issues.   - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names.  So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding.   - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage."   - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty.  Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty.   - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK.  The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000   - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer.  Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim.  Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe.  Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover.  When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty.   - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers.  They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world.  That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer.   - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install.     Hope this helps.
    • Welcome to the group!  My '22 just crossed 150K miles.  Runs perfectly.  Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K.  Love the truck.
    • Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....
    • Thanks for all the help so far!   I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error!   I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet!   And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!  
    • From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...