Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

That is excellent information and as I see customboss was also wondering about the servicing of the k&n filter, I used to run one in a truck of a dated vintage that had no air flow MAP or MAF sensor and still own the truck and I did service the filter regularly. However for a few reasons I came to the conclusion that it was probably in the "new" engines best interest not to run one and go back to the dry filter element and I took that nice pricey k&n and threw it in the garbage. Having said that I don't mean to shock you by that comment but I have my own reservations about the filter and I certainly won't be putting one into my new truck.

 

Ok so my own personal thoughts ( and no I am not a mechanic ), I'll put it this way with your truck with my line of thinking and lets hypothetically say that you sold me your truck and you had told me its history. Knowing that direct injection engines seem to be even more prone to fuel dilution issues, I would start out by using the same brand oil but change it at 3000 mile intervals and grab a sample of oil at that time to send off to see what the fuel dilution number looks like as well as whatever else it might tell me like sheered viscosity ( or if fuel dilution lowered it ) and so on. I would take the k&n and set that aside and put the factory dry filter in but also get at the MAF sensor and clean or replace it and clean out the filter oil if any within the intake tract ( although probably the factory box would go back in to fit a factory filter ). I would run some techron fuel injector cleaner through it at intervals to help clean the injectors to give the best spray pattern they are able to produce.

I too am NOT a mechanic, I would classify myself as a youtuber DIY. Most things I understand but there is ALOT that I do not. I say this because I often go by what a manufacture recommends unless I have compelling reasons not to. In the case of the K&N filter, The manufacture recommends service intervals of 100K. I have also read on forums that servicing it often will lead to filter oil being "bled" into the intake which is not good. I have also read that if you can see the filter wire, then service is not required. I do check mine for leaks but I have not clean and re-oiled it. Being half-way through the recommend service internal I see no harm if cleaning it early and may do so this weekend. 

Edited by Truston Gunter
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, Truston Gunter said:

I too am NOT a mechanic, I would classify myself as a youtuber DIY. Most things I understand but there is ALOT that I do not. I say this because I often go by what a manufacture recommends unless I have compelling reasons not to. In the case of the K&N filter, The manufacture recommends service intervals of 100K. I have also read on forums that servicing it often will lead to filter oil being "bled" into the intake which is not good. I have also read that if you can see the filter wire, then service is not required. I do check mine for leaks but I have not clean and re-oiled it. Being half-way through the recommend service internal I see no harm if cleaning it early and may do so this weekend. 

You touched on at least a couple of items I came to have real reservations about with the k&n filter and reading articles and watching videos of a testing apparatus with fine particles passing through said filter compared to dry filters gave substance to my concern, a concern that I felt the filter itself was partly to blame for the eventual failure of that trucks engine although I had no real way of proving it. Your correct, the k&n filter bleeds and when re oiling it its either putting too much oil on and having good coverage of the pleats for "hopefully" catching the dirt trying to pass through or if under oiling it leaves area's without sufficient oil and most certainly allowing dirt to pass through like air passing through cheese cloth and over time dust the engine. And again about the too much oil applied to the filter, that in itself adds to restriction as well as the bleeding into the intake sensors, nether is an item one wants to occur.

 

The problem with not cleaning the filter if lets say the dirt is building up on it excessively, that is causing air restriction and typically costs more in fuel and that potential for fuel dilution, of course newer engine systems are trying to balance the fuel injected with the volume of air but there would come a point of not being able to overcome the restriction.

 

I would never make a good salesman, that is fairly evident ! LOL. But those are the reasons why I will stick with the factory filter on my new truck and change it out as required and do services like that myself so I know what condition my old filter looked like relative to my driving surroundings dirt wise, know what quality of filter went back into it and installed properly  so dirt won't get past and that I didn't have some twit strip out the plastic threads in the filter housing with his power driver over torquing the screws which in itself would lead to dirt having a chance of getting past the filter as the cover isn't being held down properly at that point.

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Truston Gunter said:

I too am NOT a mechanic, I would classify myself as a youtuber DIY. Most things I understand but there is ALOT that I do not. I say this because I often go by what a manufacture recommends unless I have compelling reasons not to. In the case of the K&N filter, The manufacture recommends service intervals of 100K. I have also read on forums that servicing it often will lead to filter oil being "bled" into the intake which is not good. I have also read that if you can see the filter wire, then service is not required. I do check mine for leaks but I have not clean and re-oiled it. Being half-way through the recommend service internal I see no harm if cleaning it early and may do so this weekend. 

I’m sure you are a good family man Truston and you bought this wonderful truck to move the camper with and for that family. 


Have you kids be sure to watch, ask mom to place her hands on your windpipe. Ask her to squeeze it as tight as she can ( before doing this make sure you have a hand signal) to release.
 

This will enable you to understand the  air flow filter restriction our 6.6 is feeling. 


Once you give her the secret signal and (hopefully releases) you’ll understand what a clean well serviced air filter feels like to the engine. 

 

You’ve got to have 60,000+ miles on that air filter and it’s not flowing the way it needs too. 
 

Once the ECM hits the stops on retarding timing, changing injector flow, and other adjustments you maybe can’t feel,it’s all physical things like a restricted air filter.  I betting your your oil usage drops significantly, mpg might even improve even towing if we get you some more O2

to the cylinder. 

 

image.png.44ffcff8ae599446181e3bc8e9cb584c.png

 

 

Edited by customboss
  • Like 1
Posted

Trying a different oil is going to be my solution. Pennzoil high mileage synthetic 5w-30 first, since it's very available in my area. If it's still consuming like a 2 stroke, then I'll go for mobil 1 after I run out of Pennzoil, which won't be until later this year. 

 

Test drove a 3.5 ecoboost f150 today. Would have pulled the trigger but I cannot wrap my head around the itty bitty little bed. What goes in there, like 2 grocery bags?

  • Like 2
Posted
45 minutes ago, lundimpact1775 said:

Trying a different oil is going to be my solution. Pennzoil high mileage synthetic 5w-30 first, since it's very available in my area. If it's still consuming like a 2 stroke, then I'll go for mobil 1 after I run out of Pennzoil, which won't be until later this year. 

 

Test drove a 3.5 ecoboost f150 today. Would have pulled the trigger but I cannot wrap my head around the itty bitty little bed. What goes in there, like 2 grocery bags?

You can get those with a 6.5’ bed. Gotta look though. Not common. 
 

Posted

Oh I hear you. Found one with good maintenance records and prices correctly. Zero interest here paying more than 40k for a used truck and nearly 60 for a new one so my options get rather limited. 

 

Just going to live with this "in spec" consumption for now, hopefully an alternate oil will solve it. If not, I guess it's back to shopping.

Posted (edited)

To anyone that has been following the L8T oil use issue closely since the inception of the engine such as a GM mechanic for example, has there been any change in pattern in number of trucks that have had this issue as the model years progressed as now there are 5 years of that engine out there. Of course logic dictates that the older models will have accumulated more miles relative to current 2025 models but I gather this oil consumption issue shows up fairly early in some engines. I wonder if any internal changes have been made to the engine since it came on the market ?.

Edited by Chuck FB
Posted
15 hours ago, lundimpact1775 said:

Oh I hear you. Found one with good maintenance records and prices correctly. Zero interest here paying more than 40k for a used truck and nearly 60 for a new one so my options get rather limited. 

 

Just going to live with this "in spec" consumption for now, hopefully an alternate oil will solve it. If not, I guess it's back to shopping.

where are you able to find zero interest??? Id be very interested what bank if offering this! Thanks in advance!!!!

Posted
51 minutes ago, Truston Gunter said:

where are you able to find zero interest??? Id be very interested what bank if offering this! Thanks in advance!!!!

I think he’s saying he has zero interest in paying that much for a new truck. 

Posted
8 minutes ago, Pryme said:

I think he’s saying he has zero interest in paying that much for a new truck. 

Ha Ha Ha!!! I TOTALLY misread that!!!!🤣😂😅

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah I phrased that poorly my bad. I have zero interest in paying the market price for new pickup trucks today. 

 

In other news after topping off my oil my truck's been sitting here a few days and I have an oil drip somewhere. Looks like possibly oil cooler lines but I'm on the road right now so I'll have to check when I get home. Maybe I'm not burning oil and it's just a typical 100K wear item. I'd actually be a lot happier if this were the case.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Confirmed, oil cooler line went to hell, that explains my recent excessive "consumption". This has brought me a sigh of relief. I'm no stranger to oil lines wearing out, same happened on my 1997, 2010, and 2016. Wish they were a better design but at the end of the day it's not a huge ordeal.

  • Like 3
Posted
35 minutes ago, lundimpact1775 said:

Confirmed, oil cooler line went to hell, that explains my recent excessive "consumption". This has brought me a sigh of relief. I'm no stranger to oil lines wearing out, same happened on my 1997, 2010, and 2016. Wish they were a better design but at the end of the day it's not a huge ordeal.

Happy for ya. 

Posted
9 hours ago, lundimpact1775 said:

Confirmed, oil cooler line went to hell, that explains my recent excessive "consumption". This has brought me a sigh of relief. I'm no stranger to oil lines wearing out, same happened on my 1997, 2010, and 2016. Wish they were a better design but at the end of the day it's not a huge ordeal.

 

There is. AN fittings. 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 3/17/2025 at 1:50 PM, Truston Gunter said:

I too am NOT a mechanic, I would classify myself as a youtuber DIY. Most things I understand but there is ALOT that I do not. I say this because I often go by what a manufacture recommends unless I have compelling reasons not to. In the case of the K&N filter, The manufacture recommends service intervals of 100K. I have also read on forums that servicing it often will lead to filter oil being "bled" into the intake which is not good. I have also read that if you can see the filter wire, then service is not required. I do check mine for leaks but I have not clean and re-oiled it. Being half-way through the recommend service internal I see no harm if cleaning it early and may do so this weekend. 

It would be interesting to see a used oil analysis, especially since the air filter has not been serviced in so long. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 420 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...