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Service, Upgrade and Parts Advice/Suggestions ??

Bosethus68
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Bosethus68 New Member

Bosethus68

Posted
Posted

I have searched the forum for most of the info I'm looking for and have either found mixed or old information, so experience based information or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

2018 1500 Z71 4X4 , 72,****** Miles , 5.3-6speed-3.42 , 2.5in Front Level, 285/65r18 M/T's

 

Will have the truck in my shop in the next week or two for some normal service, a few repairs and some upgrades/mods. 

 

-Transmission/Fluid - I'll be doing the "Pill Flip" because I work all over Texas/Louisiana and pull a camper. Hoping to extend the transmission/torque converter's life. Should I change my transmission fluid and filter while I'm doing this? Fluid and Filter Brand or Part Number? Cost/Tools/Time/Ability are non-issues, I've seen so many mixed reviews on this topic. I have used 4WD 5-6 times. Should I change the fluid in the transfer case if I change the ATF and if so, what to replace it with?

 

-Rear Shocks - I'm pretty sure I killed the rear Rancho's when I first pulled my camper on some lovely Louisiana highways. I now have helper bags on the rear to pull the 8000lbs camper. I ordered a pair of 5100 Bilstein's but did not take the camper into consideration. Will these survive with the bags? If not, give me your suggestion. I only pull the camper 3-4 times a year.

 

-After Market Remote Start - Apparently the Texas Panhandle gets fairly cold and I do not have a factory remote start. I have looked at Start-X, 12 Volt Solutions and iDatastart. I'm fairly decent at running one of these late model laptops, I can read a schematics and I can hard wire if needed. What I don't want is a sperate key-fob and I don't want to have to go to a dealership for a software update. What do yall have good experiences with?

 

Lastly, any suggestions on Engine Oil/Filter, Spark Plugs(would you change them at 75,000 miles with the truck already being serviced?), Windshield Wipers &/or Fluid for Icy conditions, Engine Air Filter and Cabin Air Filter 

 

Sorry for the lost multi question thread but I assumed it was better than several separate threads/posts. I sincerely appreciate any and all information given and enjoy the forum. 

truck2.PNG

M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted (edited)

Owners manual:

 

https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/servicemanuals/chevrolet/2018-silverado1500.pdf

 

Your going to get a million and one different opinions...

 

  • I would test the shocks to see if they need to be replaced. Body mount bushing's can have a big impact on comfort/feel of the vehicle, and they may be dried out (like mine were).
  • I use acdelco oil filters, but I really hate how the threads of the filter have substantial burring on them. 
  • I think most people here would agree oem spark plugs are your best bet. As to whether or not you should change them, "use your judgement. How does the engine perform, idle etc.
  •  I use the gm recommended washer fluid. My last truck I used standard -40 fluid, and over time it built up film on the windshield that just did not want to come off. Differences in type of alcohol/content I guess :dunno:
  • I like the gm wipers
  • Nothing wrong with the oe air filter.
  • I would replace the cabin filter yearly. They pack up with debris fairly easily. Look for one anti-microbial, your truck will smell better for it.

 

 

 

Edited by M1ck3y
  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)

ATF - OEM at a 45K service interval or a full synthetic Dexron 6 fluid will work.  Reason I go with 45K is if you tow, lots of WOT, etc.  

 

Transfer Case - Dexron 6.

 

Oil/Air/Cabin Filters - OEM.  Oil filter you can vary, ACDelco UPF-63R, Wix, Napa Gold, all good filters.

 

Spark Plugs - If they have not been done, do them, OEM only.

 

Wipers - OEM is the only ones that last for me (NY with plenty of winter action).  

 

Remote Start - My $$$ would go on the OEM one.  Its $175 for the kit, about 1 hour labor (whatever the dealer nearest you charges for accessory install).  Won't quit on you a couple years down the road with some hokey pokey interface box that will make it so your truck won't start randomly.  Seen too many aftermarket starters cause nothing but issues, so I can't recommend one.      

 

Link from Chevy's Accessories site - 3-Button Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob | Chevrolet Accessories

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
16LT4 Enthusiast

16LT4

Posted
Posted (edited)

I do spark plugs every 50-60k miles on everything I own; just replaced the plugs in my daily driver at 48k miles (on the plugs) due to electrode material transfer to the ground strap, meaning the gap remained the same.  Wires on these trucks are cheap, so do them to.  The boots/springs of COPs are often what lead to replacement of the entire coil rather than coil failure itself, so just doing the wires makes it easy.

 

D6 for the trans AND transfer case.  Remember, the transfer case's "spinny spinny" parts are always spinning, even in 2wd, and the fluid is unfiltered.  For 2 quarts, it's not worth it not to.  I pill flipped my trans, run Redline D6 in it with 10oz of Lubegard red.  Don't forget the differentials every 30k miles, especially the rear with its clutch pack.

 

I like M1 oils, but not in a direct injection engine; M1s have high additive counts, which means high ash numbers and CBU on the intake valves.  M1 on BMW or VAG DI engines is a known no-no due to the elevated CBU, so I don't see why a GM would be different.  Everyone has their choice; I'm currently running 0w-20 Pennzoil Platinum but may switch to 5w-30 on my next oil change.

 

I'm about to cross 99k on my '16, with no drivetrain issues.

Edited by 16LT4
  • Like 2
M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, 16LT4 said:

I do spark plugs every 50-60k miles on everything I own; just replaced the plugs in my daily driver at 48k miles due to electrode material transfer to the ground strap, meaning the gap remained the same.  Wires on these are cheap, so do them to.  The boots/springs of COPs are often what lead to replacement of the entire coil rather than oil failure itself, so just doing the wires makes it easy.

 

D6 for the trans AND transfer case.  Remember, the transfer case's "spinny spinny" parts are always spinning, even in 2wd, and the fluid is unfiltered.  For 2 quarts, it's not worth it not to.  I pill flipped my trans, run Redline D6 in it with 10oz of Lubegard red.  Don't forget the differentials every 30k miles, especially the rear with its clutch pack.

 

I like M1 oils, but not in a direct injection engine; M1s have high additive counts, which means high ash numbers and CBU on the intake valves.  M1 on BMW or VAG DI engines is a known no-no due to the elevated CBU, so I don't see why a GM would be different.  Everyone has their choice; I'm currently running 0w-20 Pennzoil Platinum but may switch to 5w-30 on my next oil change.

 

I'm about to cross 99k on my '16, with no drivetrain issues.

 

I'm just curious about what complaints you have with the oe wires.

16LT4 Enthusiast

16LT4

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, M1ck3y said:

 

I'm just curious about what complaints you have with the oe wires.

 

I don't have complaints with them, simply that they are a maintenance item; in my experience, "coil failures" are often actually a "boot and spring" failure on COP engines; the 5.3 has separate coils and wires, and wires have always been a tune-up item; Fords have replaceable boots on the coils which is good, BMWs do not.  Cheap and easy to do to prevent misfires and prolong coil life.  I did mine with spark plugs at 72k miles with AC Delcos for both.

Edited by 16LT4
lovecars Enthusiast

lovecars

Posted
Posted
On 12/21/2021 at 8:00 AM, Snowcamo said:

Idata for the start. Easy program and worth it. 

The dealer turned mine on. About $250 with new remote

  • Like 1
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, lovecars said:

The dealer turned mine on. About $250 with new remote

Iirc i spent an extra $100 and have a complete remote start, tilt, glass mic, temp sensor and peace of mind someone cant just code hop into my truck like oem. Here alone I see more stories of the oem remote start not functioning as designed. That and the ease of break in lead me to the aftermarket.

16LT4 Enthusiast

16LT4

Posted
Posted (edited)

OP you can have my remote start. 😆  IMO, a remote start is one of the most useless, and dangerous, modern features for longevity.  I'm not going to wash the cylinder walls, dilute the oil with fuel, and starve the bearings with viscous, low-flow oil on a cold start; I hop in, start, and go.  UOAs have shown a quantitative difference in metals and flashpoints between idling "warm ups" and "start-and-drive" operational procedures.

 

Hmmm, I wonder if remote-starting is a commonality among all the "failed-lifter" threads? 🧐

Edited by 16LT4
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

I have had remote start in my last 3 vehicles and my wife too. The last 2 for me were OEM and it is a great convenience. When it gets down to temps in the teens or negative numbers, it's nice to be able to get in a truck that has been warmed up and has nice toasty seats. I have never had issues related to engine damage on any of them as a result. The only gripe I have is that it will only stay on for 10 minutes and can only be remote started twice before the key needs to be turned to the run position in order to remote start again. 

  • Thanks 1
16LT4 Enthusiast

16LT4

Posted
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

I have had remote start in my last 3 vehicles and my wife too. The last 2 for me were OEM and it is a great convenience. When it gets down to temps in the teens or negative numbers, it's nice to be able to get in a truck that has been warmed up and has nice toasty seats. I have never had issues related to engine damage on any of them as a result. The only gripe I have is that it will only stay on for 10 minutes and can only be remote started twice before the key needs to be turned to the run position in order to remote start again. 


Our work truck eating its timing chain at 33k miles of remote starts and excessive idling is an interesting contrarian. 😉

 

Devil’s advocate: remote start is a roughly 15 year old convenience? 3 vehicles within that time frame is generally not reliable data on longevity. My station car is about to turn 52 years old and its worn seats poke springs into my back, but provides a half century of data. That’s a mild inconvenience because the heat works full within a few minutes of startup even in subzero temps, a feat my K2 couldn’t dream of. 
 

I’ve seen UOAs showing the differences between warm-ups and not, and the positive change in UOAs when warmups were nearly eliminated. Just because one doesn’t notice the difference doesn’t mean the difference isn’t there. 😉 

Edited by 16LT4
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, 16LT4 said:


Our work truck eating its timing chain at 33k miles of remote starts and excessive idling is an interesting contrarian. 😉

 

Devil’s advocate: remote start is a roughly 15 year old convenience? 3 vehicles within that time frame is generally not reliable data on longevity. My station car is about to turn 52 years old and its worn seats poke springs into my back, but provides a half century of data. That’s a mild inconvenience because the heat works full within a few minutes of startup even in subzero temps, a feat my K2 couldn’t dream of. 
 

I’ve seen UOAs showing the differences between warm-ups and not, and the positive change in UOAs when warmups were nearly eliminated. Just because one doesn’t notice the difference doesn’t mean the difference isn’t there. 😉 

 

My take... I don't even think I will still be here in 52 years so there's that. So realistically I don't need to ensure that this one lasts that long. And its usually recommended in the colder weather to not immediately drive off after first starting a cold vehicle and let it warm up first. This allows the thick cold oil to warm up and thin a bit to fully circulate through the engine and lubricate the moving parts before putting a load on it as accelerating will. Remote starting accomplishes this well and without the need for me to be sitting in there unnecessarily freezing my butt off.

 

Everything in these trucks as well as many other things are wear items and will eventually wear out. I have accepted that and know that this is an eventuality. When something wears to the point of needing to be replaced, I cross that bridge when it happens. Will the engine only last just another month or last a couple more years because I regularly remote start it in cold? I don't know, I can't predict that. At least in my case, I have another 60,000 miles and just over 4 years left with my GM extended service contract so I'm not too worried about it. I feel that this is enough of a comfort in case the worst happens. I am willing to choose my comfort over trying to extend the life of the motor that may or may not become an issue in the near future.

 

And you're correct, this feature wasn't available for many years. The pre-remote start years saw many just start up their vehicle in the driveway with the ignition key to prewarm their vehicle. This IMHO was less safe as someone could come along and jump into the running vehicle and just drive away. That happened a lot especially where I'm at. When remote start came along, it made it more difficult to do that. I and many others like having that convenience for comfort and security reasons over the idea that we are "destroying" our engines by using remote start. In my and my wife's experience, we have had many years and I don't know how many tens of thousands of miles out of our vehicles without any complications from using remote start.

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 1
pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted (edited)

from my towing experience I pulled about 6500lbs of trailer up NorCal and across thru Arizona and back home.

 

I would definatly recommend getting a tuner to dial in the transmission after you do a trans service and a pill flip or delete.

for towing you need to get the Katec 175 engine thermostat , this will minimize the need to purchase and install a transmission cooler. I'de rather put that money into the engine radiator

 

next time i pull in summer I'm installing the big 6.2 radiator and activating the power enrichment function to about 60-65% throttle i really needed the extra power for pulling up long grades

also gonna try deleting the V4 function and chopping out the flapper valve assembly on my muff.

Edited by pokismoki
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