Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What's up Guys. Writing this to gain some knowledge from gear heads that are more educated then I am.

I probably did all this backwards but available funds played a role in the sequence of my purchases.

Below is the order and links to all purchased items.

  1. Diablo I3 Tuner- https://www.diablosport.com/intune-i3-performance-tuning/  
  2. Throttle Body Spacer- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBV4K6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. Cold air intake- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP8FKGU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. Performance exhaust- https://www.magnaflow.com/products/12867-performance-muffler-magnaflow-5-round-straight-through-performance-muffler?variant=18434149384307

 

I started off by tuning it with the performance preset tune that is pre installed on the I-3. There is a total of 3 pre installed tunes based on Octane Level. I believe it was ( Eco, Mid, Performance). I set the Tire size + Soft Shift points. I DID not change the Speed limiter or Throttle Limiter. No other changes that were available were made.

At the time is was happy because it basically got rid of the clunk when the transmission would shift at certain times upon quick on and off acceleration moments. Also the throttle response was much better. This was done somewhere around Sep of 2019.

Next up was the Throttle body spacer and cold air intake. Both installed at the same time. At this point it turned into a completely different truck. I believe it cut the 0-60 down by about a second. I did notice hearing a higher amount of back pressure in the motor. It didn't seem to be enough for a concern. Also it seemed to not fall into V4 mode as much as in the past.

Last was the exhaust, I had it professionally installed, They cut the 3rd Catalytic converter out added 2-1/2 pipe to approximately the same OE muffler location added the muffler a Y pipe and dual 2-1/2 pipes to (cowboy cut tips, Not that this matters).

At this point I have to be pretty heavy on the accelerator to take off and its falling into V4 mode constantly. In my opinion exactly opposite when it should be.

I went by a performance shop and asked some questions. they want me to pull the diablo tune and do a custom tune (Pay Me). They also mentioned there is an update for the I3 that allows you to turn off the V4 mode. When the guy connected the tuner in the truck after installing the update on the tuner from his shop PC he mentioned that it was asking for a new license purchase. " He couldn't do anything for me."

I honestly was in to much of a hurry when I did the tune. I didn't really keep up with what all was going on during installing in the vehicle or even if I registered the product. Lesson learned.

 

At this point I have contacted Diablo Sport via email awaiting a response. 

Basically just looking for advice on which way to go at this point. I'm currently on the fence about adding a leveling kit and after market rims and tires. Which in my mind would require another tune.

Thank you ahead of time for any and all that take the time to respond.

     

 

Posted

When you remove restriction you're increasing efficiency, when you increase efficiency the engine can operate easier (less load), when the engine is operating in low load conditions, AFM activates. Less restriction = More AFM 

Posted (edited)

you can turn off v4 by manually shifting into 5th gear on the 6l80, for some reason gm likes the restricted exhaust to improve the v4 functionality, i think they want to do this to improve torqe in the powerband

Edited by pokismoki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...