Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everyone, I apologize in advance because I know many are sick of the subject.

 But my 2018 1500 5.3 (30k miles) has been good to me so far! I would like to keep it that way and hearing the torque converter horror stories has me thinking proactively.

 Would having a trans shop swap out the stock converter for an aftermarket solve the majority of the issues? 

 I've also read that the truck should be reprogrammed for the new converter, is this something a standard transmission shop should be able to do in house?

 Lastly is there anything else that should be upgraded while it's out? I've read that the thermostat should be upgraded.

 Thanks in advance guys 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I wouldn't got that far but I would have the fluid changed out 100%.  Not just a pan drop but have it fully exchanged. You are at the right mileage for that. 

 

Also using a quality synthetic like AMSOIL's ATL  transmission fluid would be a step up from the factory fluid.  If interested let me know, I can quote you delivered to your door.

  • Like 2
Posted

Agree with Silverado, change the fluid. Use a fluid your happy with, the Amsoil will be an upgrade IMO. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

the stock converterter is fine,  reliability improves with removing heat from the trans, target temp should be 140-160 F.  all silverados pre-2014 never had thermostats in the transmission for a reason

 

minimize wear on the tcc in the converter by having tuner disable the lock up for 1,2,3 and 4th gear...

 

change trans fluid at 15k miles with a flush,  and now is the time to change the filter..

 

I would recommend installing a Aux trans filter to capture all metal in the system, the stock filter doesnt remove fine metal, which causes wear on parts..

Edited by pokismoki
Posted
3 hours ago, Dieselcamino said:

Hey everyone, I apologize in advance because I know many are sick of the subject.

 But my 2018 1500 5.3 (30k miles) has been good to me so far! I would like to keep it that way and hearing the torque converter horror stories has me thinking proactively.

 Would having a trans shop swap out the stock converter for an aftermarket solve the majority of the issues? 

 I've also read that the truck should be reprogrammed for the new converter, is this something a standard transmission shop should be able to do in house?

 Lastly is there anything else that should be upgraded while it's out? I've read that the thermostat should be upgraded.

 Thanks in advance guys 

 

 

 

I wouldn't jump on a converter so quickly.

 

I would get either the new lower temp trans thermostat from GM, or the SureCool thermostat delete kit, and then do a full fluid change.  

Posted
3 hours ago, Dieselcamino said:

Hey everyone, I apologize in advance because I know many are sick of the subject.

 But my 2018 1500 5.3 (30k miles) has been good to me so far! I would like to keep it that way and hearing the torque converter horror stories has me thinking proactively.

 Would having a trans shop swap out the stock converter for an aftermarket solve the majority of the issues? 

 I've also read that the truck should be reprogrammed for the new converter, is this something a standard transmission shop should be able to do in house?

 Lastly is there anything else that should be upgraded while it's out? I've read that the thermostat should be upgraded.

 Thanks in advance guys 

 

Stole this from another member, and post. Gives you something to think about on the service performed. 

 

A couple of points from a shop owner:  

 

Fluid exchange is the correct procedure, and since it was a warranty job that's what GM is paying for, no more.  Assuming the dealer used a modern exchange machine it is better than dropping the pan.  You simply connect inline to the trans cooler and do a 1:1 exchange of fluid, using the transmission to pump the fluid through all gears.  It gets ALL of the old fluid out of the unit.  Whereas dropping the pan and replacing a filter only replaces what is in the pan or about 40%-50% new fluid.

 

"Flushes" are a thing of the past. The "flush" terminology earned a bad rap because the older "hot flush" equipment used machine pressure to blast fluid (and sometimes solvent cleaners) back through the trans, which could cause issues. 

 

Another benefit of the exchange is time.  It books about 1.0 hours, where a pan drop can book for about 2.0 hours or more.  On a pan drop getting the fluid level perfect is a bit of a process (warm-up time, computer temp verify, racking a second time for level check etc).  It can be a real PITA on other makes with insane procedures.  With the exchange machine it's 1:1 in and out, none of that is required.   Since labor time equals cost the price to you is much cheaper for the exchange.  If you request a pan drop/filter you're going to be paying $labor x 2.0hrs+ and fluid and filter vs $labor x 1.0 plus fluid only (or a fixed menu price in many cases). 

 

Also modern transmission filters are more of a screen and while they can benefit from service at higher mileage they are not the same as paper element filters we grew up servicing.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Seems like more yays than nays on doing a fluid exchange so I think I will go that route (most likely with amsoil), also going to look into the thermostat delete and external filter.  Bought the truck a year ago with 18k and it gets babied, good info guys thanks.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just ordered a sureflow bypass, in the past I always dropped the pan and swapped the filter/added fluid.  Maybe it's a stupid question but everyone suggesting bringing it to a shop with a fluid exchanger, wouldn't I need to drop the pan anyway to swap the filter?

Posted
1 hour ago, Dieselcamino said:

Just ordered a sureflow bypass, in the past I always dropped the pan and swapped the filter/added fluid.  Maybe it's a stupid question but everyone suggesting bringing it to a shop with a fluid exchanger, wouldn't I need to drop the pan anyway to swap the filter?

 

Curious what made you choose the sureflow vs the new 70C or pill flip options?

Posted

Not sure if my last post went through or not, but I chose the sureflow over the "pill flip" from some internet opinions on bypass flow of the trans cooler. I figure 45$ is cheap insurance.  Only avoided the GM 70c thermostat since if they messed it up the first time why pay them to correct their own mistake.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Dieselcamino said:

Just ordered a sureflow bypass, in the past I always dropped the pan and swapped the filter/added fluid.  Maybe it's a stupid question but everyone suggesting bringing it to a shop with a fluid exchanger, wouldn't I need to drop the pan anyway to swap the filter?

No need to do the filter.  Just change out all the fluid.  You can do the filter at 100k. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I'm new to these transmissions (last truck was a 97 powerstroke) but from a few things I have read some have claimed the magnet in the pan was full of shavings at 35k miles.  

 Maybe I'm overthinking it but I'm weighing the pros/cons of a fluid exchange vs. pan drop filter change and add fluid.

Posted

if you got metal on the magnet at 30k miles your probably due for a torque converter  if not a pump...  pulled my pan at 35k and it was clean enough to eat on, no metal anywhere on the mag

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...