Suggestions for touch up paint.

[TA^Guy]

So the other day I noticed that someone had scratched the passenger door of my 20' Quicksilver Sierra.  I also have a chip from a stone strike on my drivers fender I'd like to do.

I have touched up vehicles in the past and it never looks great.

Anyone have any suggestions on a good touch up paint?  Any tips on application methods?

Thinking I may just get the proper paint code, touch it up, and after it cures, wet sand and buff it to try and bring it flush with the stock paint.

 

Thanks for any suggestions. 

[reeseb]

i suggest you don't wet sand. You'll end up sanding down the surrounding clear coat. 

[mafd2]

I've used automotive touch up based here in Louisiana with great results on several trucks.  They also have several tutorial vids.  I put a thin coat of base then a coat of clear then wet sand and buff.  I don't use the brush in the bottle.  I get good quality brushes from an art hobby shop.  You can get several shapes and sizes depending on the size of your scratch.

 

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

[It's Tim]

"Touch up" will look 20X worse. 

 

[mafd2]

1 hour ago, It's Tim said:

"Touch up" will look 20X worse. 

 

Not if it's done correct with the right brushes and know what you're doing.  Done it too many times. Can't just blotch it on there. Then it'll look like crap.

[swathdiver]

Have done fine with ACDelco and Duplicolor touch up pens which provide several ways of applying the paint.  Less is more.

[Grumpy Bear]

I've done literally dozens of chips on Pepper and IF I don't point most of them out you would look along time finding them.

 

Like @swathdiver I use ACDelco or Duplicolor pens. On a day over 55F wipe the area to repair with alcohol and a microfiber or a prep wipe if you have those. I use a paper punch to make a dot of 2,000 wet/dry and superglue it to a new pencil eraser. Good light and magnification required. Just dull the area with the 2000. Use a 0000 oil brush to fill the chip above the paints height. Applicator provided is WAY to large. Let dry for at least an hour. Use 2000 again wet this time to 'level' the paint. Then move to 3,000 foam backed 3M and then 5000 foamback. Depending on contour I wrap the foam back around a shop rag or around something flat like a domino sanded flat. Lastly I use 3M Perfect It and microfiber. Each step finer use only the time and pressure needed to remove the previous marks. That last one will bring it to glass and you've removed only microns of finish. 24 hours later, wax it. 

 

This whole process is a 'touch' thing that must be learned but if you use the grades mentioned there is a great chance of success. Looks way better than stab and jab method detailers at used car lots do. 

 

Straight simple colors without metallic, flips, pearls or tri-coats and so on work much better but even on those it still looks better than stab and jab and good enough until you collect enough to warrant painting an entire panel(s). I've done a dark blue party metallic right in the middle of a flat hood that was good enough to fool the purchasing manager at the dealership and his body shop. That one took a few days but results are the result of effort and patients.  

Edited April 21, 2022 by Grumpy Bear

[Rob Mugs]

On 4/20/2022 at 12:47 PM, It's Tim said:

"Touch up" will look 20X worse. 

 

Will look 20x worse than what?  Leaving it alone; exposing the primer or steel?

If you do it right, it is a solid 20/20 or better

Edited April 23, 2022 by Rob Mugs

[2016 Sierra Owner]

This is one of the reasons I went with a silver truck. I have 2 chips I can barely see on mine so far. If you take the vin number to your dealer they can order a touch up pen that will match your color code. The last one I got had paint one one end and clear cote on the other. I think it was around $25.