Hoginedgewood Posted May 15, 2022 Posted May 15, 2022 So 5 years ago I bought a 1500 2wd, I regret not getting 4wd and looking at hauling an rv. I have several questions dad retired from GM, so theres the discount. im not wanting to order, local dealer has base models I like on the way. gas! Is there 2 gas engines? Fuel economy is important. No to diesel. is there a disadvantage to a 3500 from 2500? Like dot issues? do there need the range device to stop 4 cylinder mode or having the engine shut off at stop lights? 6 speed transmission is good and reliable? not sure what all I should be asking...... 1
StinkyCheese Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 6.6 gas is the base engine for 2500/3500s and the only gas "option." The HDs don't have that cylinder deactivation crap, yet. No clue on the DOT thing, that can also vary by your state DOT. Personally if I was going to get a SRW I'd get a 3500 just for the extra capacity over the 2500 and unless things changed zero ride difference unloaded. 3500 DRW will ride rougher empty. If fuel economy is important stick with a 1500 unless you're going to be towing heavy or a lot.
CamGTP Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 How big the camper is what I'd want to know. If not huge, then a 2500 is the way to go in my opinion. Cost less and will ride a little better empty. The truck isn't going to get super good mileage, maybe high teens on the freeway and probably 8mpg towing.
Another JR Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) I have a 2021 3500 hd srw cclb slt. Most of the time I have an 1800 lb pop up slide-in camper installed, which puts 1700 lbs on the rear axle (I weighed it). I bought the 3500 because I wanted to be able to tow an 8000 lb boat trailer with the camper installed. Disadvantages of a 3500 relative to a 2500: 1) You have no choice in mirrors. The huge towing mirrors are it. They are nice when you are backing up, but block visibility the rest of the time. It’s the most significant thing I don’t like about my truck. 2) At bed loads from about 1500 to 3000 lbs, the rear overload springs are in contact part of the time, and you hear clunking as you go over bumps and dips each time the overloads hit the bumpers. The overloads statically begin to contact the bumpers on my truck at a bit above 2500 lbs of added rear axle load. In this 1500 to 3000 weight range you don’t need the overloads, so if the 2500 can meet your payload needs you might want to avoid this. 3) In some states registering a 3500 will cost you more unless you buy a derate option. In other states, like WA where I live, the 3500 cost about $500 or $600 less to register yearly than a 2500 would have cost. So you have to research that for your state. 4) Tire pressure warning on the rear is set higher on the 3500, so you are limited in how low you can run the rear tires to 62 psi, which is too high for best ride when running empty. There are some advantages to the 3500. Payload is the obvious one. Edited May 16, 2022 by Another JR I had provided an incorrect statement, and MTU provided the correct info. Thanks MTU.
MTU Alum Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 Just to update some incorrect information in this thread. On gas models, the rear axle and drivetrain is the same between 2500 and 3500srw. The rear suspension is the main difference. The 2500 is a two stage leaf spring where the 3500 is a three stage. The 3500 is not just a 2500 spring pack with third stage added. The main four leaf pack is same between the two but, the second stage (bottom leaf) engages quicker on 3500. Unloaded the 3500 rides similar to 2500 but a little worse. On rougher roads the 3500 is worse due to the second stage, higher force in rear shock, and higher tire pressure. #iworkforGM
nards444 Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 Only one gas motor not two. Not a lot of difference between the 2500 and 3500, 2500 is going to ride better and not as stiff. The real question here is what do you plan on doing with it. The 6.6 gas is a gas hog your looking at 10-12mpg depending on the situation. I know you said no diesel and right now probably makes sense but if diesel were to drop and you factor in the savings on fuel mileage it might be a thought.
sheath Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 14 hours ago, Hoginedgewood said: So 5 years ago I bought a 1500 2wd, I regret not getting 4wd and looking at hauling an rv. I have several questions dad retired from GM, so theres the discount. im not wanting to order, local dealer has base models I like on the way. gas! Is there 2 gas engines? Fuel economy is important. No to diesel. is there a disadvantage to a 3500 from 2500? Like dot issues? do there need the range device to stop 4 cylinder mode or having the engine shut off at stop lights? 6 speed transmission is good and reliable? not sure what all I should be asking...... Right On! Nothing like the smell of a new truck & RV. So far the only thing that hasn't been covered yet is the 6 speed transmission. It is reliable, and when not pulling heavy is really nice. Intermittently it will have a harsh downshift to 1st when going slow, but that is me getting very picky. lol I'm a fan of simple, so I'm biased towards the 6L90E versus an 8 or 10 speed. That wrote, I have found when pulling heavy through the mountains (14,600lbs 5th wheel) there are times I'd like a gear between 3rd & 4th. Speculation is there "may" be a 10 speed coming in '24. But by '24 there could be more things added, like start/stop & cylinder deactivation, or big price increases (purely speculative on my part). If you like to tow fast (like keeping up with traffic) and you pick a heavy RV, you may not like the 6.6L gas engine in the mountains. When it comes to pulling through the mountains, my old Dodge with 325HP/600lbs-ft and exhaust brake is much easier. That is the only time I miss the diesel engine. I don't try to keep up with traffic, I drive at or below the speed limit unloaded. When towing, the max speed traveled is 62mph, or a couple of mph below the truck speed. So, the gas engine works great in my case. Someone else on this forum pulls a slightly lighter 5th wheel (about 12Klbs) with the gas engine. Hopefully he will chime in as well in this regard. Chances are he also pulls faster than me. Like a normal human being would... lol Good luck, and happy glamping! P.S. here is a link to the write up I've been doing as I get more experience towing. Most of this is pretty subjective based on the experience. Hope it is helpful. 1
Another JR Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) MTU - Thanks as always for providing correct information. I misunderstood the design differences in the spring pack. I could swear I read/saw something somewhere that said the rear axle was different, but I just tracked down the video I looked at and saw that it’s 4 years old, so it must have been for the previous generation of hd trucks. Thanks for your patience, contributions and polite corrections. I deleted my incorrect statements in the above post. Edited May 16, 2022 by Another JR MTU knows his stuff 2
Another JR Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, nards444 said: Only one gas motor not two. Not a lot of difference between the 2500 and 3500, 2500 is going to ride better and not as stiff. The real question here is what do you plan on doing with it. The 6.6 gas is a gas hog your looking at 10-12mpg depending on the situation. I know you said no diesel and right now probably makes sense but if diesel were to drop and you factor in the savings on fuel mileage it might be a thought. Edited May 16, 2022 by Another JR
nards444 Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 Also going to add my rule of thumb after hauling things and have both 1/2 and 3/4 tons and diesel. 5-6k or under stay with a half ton cheaper, cheaper to run and just easier to drive. Between 6-8k gets in the tweener stage, go on a handful of trips a year and not doing mountains get a half ton. get up over 8-9k better be in a bigger truck. Ive hauled 10k with an ecoboost and did great but not something i would want to do all the time 1
sheath Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 52 minutes ago, nards444 said: Also going to add my rule of thumb after hauling things and have both 1/2 and 3/4 tons and diesel. 5-6k or under stay with a half ton cheaper, cheaper to run and just easier to drive. Between 6-8k gets in the tweener stage, go on a handful of trips a year and not doing mountains get a half ton. get up over 8-9k better be in a bigger truck. Ive hauled 10k with an ecoboost and did great but not something i would want to do all the time This mirrors my experience. The capabilities of a new half ton are very impressive, but there is just something about the stability of an HD with heavier trailers that is confidence inspiring.
nards444 Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 17 minutes ago, sheath said: This mirrors my experience. The capabilities of a new half ton are very impressive, but there is just something about the stability of an HD with heavier trailers that is confidence inspiring. People dont believe it buts its true. Also most half tons today match or exceed 3/4 tons from late the 90s or early 2000s. Motors really arent the most important thing but the motors in the half tons are just as powerful and sometimes more than the bigger truck, diesel excluded. the 3.5 ecoboost is 400hp 500 torque where as the chevy 6.6 gas is 401 hp 464 torque, and the ecoboost gets all that torque at 2500rpm not on a torque curve. 1
Another JR Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 I have towed 5 to 8 k trailers with my 1/2 ton Yukon XL, my 93 K2500 truck, and my 21 3500hd gas. Increased weight of the tow vehicle, stiffer suspension and tires, longer wheelbase, and bigger brakes all contribute to better control of a large load. Your ‘feel’ about the heavier duty truck being safer comes from all of these things, and is accurate. I have a neighbor who has only ever driven half tons and he keeps spouting specs at me, and I keep telling him to go drive an hd truck. There’s no convincing some people to even try a different thing. 2
KARNUT Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 My first diesel pulling truck was a 91 Ram 3/4 ton. 165HP 400TQ. Truck and gooseneck was registered for 25K. The weight and brakes fell on the trailer. I’ve pulled equipment for 30 years. Placing the load weight and proper trailer brakes are the key. I’m not big on bumper pulling. Tail waging the dog. I definitely lean bigger truck for bumper pulling. 1
nards444 Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) 23 hours ago, Another JR said: I have towed 5 to 8 k trailers with my 1/2 ton Yukon XL, my 93 K2500 truck, and my 21 3500hd gas. Increased weight of the tow vehicle, stiffer suspension and tires, longer wheelbase, and bigger brakes all contribute to better control of a large load. Your ‘feel’ about the heavier duty truck being safer comes from all of these things, and is accurate. I have a neighbor who has only ever driven half tons and he keeps spouting specs at me, and I keep telling him to go drive an hd truck. There’s no convincing some people to even try a different thing. Specs do matter and like I said a 2022 half ton would blow a 93 2500 out of the water. But people have a hard time changing and really seeing the whole pictures. Suspension, brakes, motor, weight of trailer and what kind, does it have brakes all things that matter. Edited May 17, 2022 by nards444 1
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