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Shaky wheels? Help.

Graham1992

By Graham1992
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Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

Posted
Posted

I've had these MRR T228 for 2 months now and have been at the shop 4 times to diagnose a shaky wheel/tire combo at highway speeds. I had Toyo proxes st tires and went thru a combination of 7 different wheels and 7 Toyo's before the shop ordered some Nitto's the same size. The Nitto's were put on and the truck STILL shook so we put the stock 18's on and the truck drives great, NO SHAKE. Any help? MRR is to the point they almost don't wanna help and I'm having to look into new wheels. Anybody went thru the same thing? 

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Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

You need a shop with a road force balancer. With that not all the shops that have them use them correctly. That balancer will tell which wheel or tire is out of round. 

Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

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16 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

You need a shop with a road force balancer. With that not all the shops that have them use them correctly. That balancer will tell which wheel or tire is out of round. 

They've mentioned they do, yes,  and they got them to the point where the wheel and tire spun correctly with the Nitto's on on the balancer, then they put them on the truck and it still shook. So the way he explained it was its correct on the center cap and off balance on the lug holes. That where I'm at out. 

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

Ok well if that Truly is the case all you'd need is a hub centric ring. I would start by getting a micrometer and measuring the wheel hub bore and truck hub.

 

 

asilverblazer Senior Enthusiast

asilverblazer

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Snowcamo said:

Could also be wheel hubs gone bad. 

Doesn't seem likely that stock tires and wheels would correct it. Unless they are able to mask it enough to not be noticeable. 

 

Try, keeping three factory tires and wheels on and put 1 of the MRR set ups on one at a time to try and see if there is one or more of the MRR's causing the problem. 

 

Inspect the hub mating surfaces for debris or manufacturing defect preventing the MRR from mounting properly.

 

Make sure the lug nuts aren't bottoming out on the studs before tightening to the wheel.

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

They would correct to the point it's not noticeable. Only due to less weight. I can put first hand experience with it as my truck came with 17s factory.

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newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Graham1992 said:

I've had these MRR T228 for 2 months now and have been at the shop 4 times to diagnose a shaky wheel/tire combo at highway speeds. I had Toyo proxes st tires and went thru a combination of 7 different wheels and 7 Toyo's before the shop ordered some Nitto's the same size. The Nitto's were put on and the truck STILL shook so we put the stock 18's on and the truck drives great, NO SHAKE. Any help? MRR is to the point they almost don't wanna help and I'm having to look into new wheels. Anybody went thru the same thing? 

 

 

 

Pull a wheel off and look at the brake rotors.  Do you have any of these tinnerman nuts/clips on there?  The little bronze colored ones in the picture below.  If you see them, take them off.  They can cause an imbalance with aftermarket wheels and GM accessory wheels.

 

READ HERE - MC-10162155-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov)  

 

Torque and Clamping Force - Tire Review Magazine

Edited by newdude
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newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

Also.  Center bore would be worth checking.  OE wheels are 78.1mm and MRR has those T228s at 87.1mm so I don't know if its actually larger?  Or did they just transpose the digits?

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Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

Posted
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On 2/3/2023 at 12:34 PM, Snowcamo said:

They would correct to the point it's not noticeable. Only due to less weight. I can put first hand experience with it as my truck came with 17s factory.

I would figure at some higher speed you’d notice eventually but I could be wrong. 

 

On 2/3/2023 at 10:48 AM, Snowcamo said:

Ok well if that Truly is the case all you'd need is a hub centric ring. I would start by getting a micrometer and measuring the wheel hub bore and truck hub.

 

 

I’d does have the rings on it yes. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

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Update, the new running theory is it isn't the wheels, it's the driveshaft. Dropped the truck off to get the driveshaft pulled out and balanced and will come back. I was on a long interstate drive on my 18's and started to feel it very lightly compared to when the 22's were on, so the larger tires were taking most the shake out. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

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Sorry for the delay, I've not had the truck in almost a month. 7 wheels were replaced, 6 tires were replaced before changing brands from Toyo to Nitto. All the wheels/tires and now showing they are good and don't require any weights at all. The owner of the shop even took them to another shop to use another machine just to check that off as well. The driveshaft has been balanced and the shop "checked the rear end" and it showed true, yet issue is still ongoing. The wheel hub surfaces are flat with no washer on lugs. The truck still shakes at the same speed, about 65-80 or so, as well as at a lower speed you can feel the truck jumping or hopping at maybe 15-30 mph or so. The only other thing I can think of is maybe torque converter? As I've read that a lot but I thought that was more of a 6.2 issue. Any other advice? This does not make any sense to me....

Graham1992 Enthusiast

Graham1992

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About to roll this truck off a bridge, it's bad enough you can't have open drinks in the cup holder on the interstate/parkway. 

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