Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
18 hours ago, rdonarski said:

I have a 2020 withe the snowplow prep package and my son has a 2016 w/o it. I think his has a more comfortable ride, but his is the LTZ and mine is the WT. I figure that could play into that. I would never put a snowplow on it. Just came with the truck.

Thanks for sharing.... I would agree, yours in all likelihood would play a difference. Other than that, I would think between the years of yours and your sons there would be some balance due to the newer suspension's. Living here in Michigan, if I get a chance to ride one with and w/o this package, I'll be able to know pretty quick. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray 👍

Posted
11 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

With the 3500 chassis pulling a 36ft mid profile 5th wheel I really didnt need the extra capacity on the front axle but for the small cost for the upgrade I always go for more capacity. 

Absolutely! Thanks for sharing. Ray 👍

Posted
9 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

On 4wd diesels crew cabs, the snow plow prep is just one torsion bar higher.  On gas trucks, you could be two or torsion bar sizes higher for snow plow.

 

#iworkforGM

Thanks.... That's great information. Maybe, just being a heavier torsion bar won't make a huge difference in ride. With that being said as you know, normally under load gives you a little smoother ride. tahnak again. Ray 👍 

Posted
10 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

On 4wd diesels crew cabs, the snow plow prep is just one torsion bar higher.  On gas trucks, you could be two or torsion bar sizes higher for snow plow.

 

#iworkforGM

So is the actual tube diameter larger on the bigger torsion bars? I know my truck is 5600 front and 6600 rear. I think that’s the biggest for a gas truck?

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Pryme said:

So is the actual tube diameter larger on the bigger torsion bars? I know my truck is 5600 front and 6600 rear. I think that’s the biggest for a gas truck?

 

You might be thinking of sway bars, not torsion bars. Only the front has torsion bars (instead of leaf or coil springs for front).

  • Like 1
Posted

I had a '21 Denali with the snow plow camper package and now have a '24 Denali Ultimate without and the ride is noticeably softer without just my two cents.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Pryme said:

So is the actual tube diameter larger on the bigger torsion bars? I know my truck is 5600 front and 6600 rear. I think that’s the biggest for a gas truck?

They are solid bars, with a hexes formed on on the ends in a 'upsetter'. (it's a forging process)

(for a few years I worked for a vender than made torsion bars...)

 

Anyway, hexes and length will be the same so they fit the trucks, diameter gets changed to change spring rate. 

If you're ever changing them, there are RH and LH versions.  Yes, it matters.

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

The diameter changes with rate.  5600 lbs is the highest on 2020 to 2023 L8T.  For 2024, L8Ts can get 6000 lbs.  This is due to extra weight of 10sp trans.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 hours ago, HawkScot said:

 

You might be thinking of sway bars, not torsion bars. Only the front has torsion bars (instead of leaf or coil springs for front).

No I know these trucks don’t have sway bars. I know they are only in the front I’ve been under my truck a bunch. I was just talking about the weights front and rear. 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, clongtine said:

I had a '21 Denali with the snow plow camper package and now have a '24 Denali Ultimate without and the ride is noticeably softer without just my two cents.

First, Congrat's on your New Ultimate!! Thank You for sharing this great information! Your two cents is very much appreciated. Ray 👍

Posted (edited)

I started out with 5600 lb bars on my 3500 hd cclb srw as “camper springs.”  I did not like the suspension dynamics.  The front would bounce up faster than the rear when going over dips at highway speed. I changed mine to the standard 5200 lb springs for that model. The ride is better and the front pitch up over dips is gone.  If you are not actually going to put the extra weight on the front I would recommend staying away from camper or plow springs. 
 

If anyone has questions about what is involved in changing them I can answer questions or direct you to my post describing the job.  It was easier than I expected. 

Edited by Another JR
  • Like 1
Posted

Yesterday I was working my job as a boat inspector at a local boat ramp (checking for invasive species). A gentleman pulled up with a 2500HD LTZ Z71 Sport. Nice truck. I was giving him crap on it being overkill to pull his pontoon boat out. He said he uses it mainly for pulling a large 5th wheel. Has over 80K miles on it already. he and his friend both commented how rough it rides when not pulling the 5th wheel. I asked and he said it has the snowplow option too (although he like me never plans on using it). Anyhow, it made me feel better that it isn't just the difference between the WT and LTZ that makes the rough ride. I really don't mind mine, but this gives me ammunition when my wife complains about it. It's not just because I was cheap.....for a change!

  • Like 1
Posted

I’ve had my share of 3/4 and one tons. They all were used for pulling. My first order of business after purchasing was adding a 100 gallon fuel tank and a tank top toolbox. It was loaded with all the tools I needed up to 3/4 inch drive. I even had a small air compressor. The tool box also housed a decent jack and stands. Not pulling my back tire air pressure was lowered. All this I consider necessary for any kind of pulling, especially the fuel tank. That all contributes to decent ride quality. There’s a ying and yang with everything. 

  • Like 2
Posted
7 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

I’ve had my share of 3/4 and one tons. They all were used for pulling. My first order of business after purchasing was adding a 100 gallon fuel tank and a tank top toolbox. It was loaded with all the tools I needed up to 3/4 inch drive. I even had a small air compressor. The tool box also housed a decent jack and stands. Not pulling my back tire air pressure was lowered. All this I consider necessary for any kind of pulling, especially the fuel tank. That all contributes to decent ride quality. There’s a ying and yang with everything. 

I agree. I own a skid steer. Pulling that with my 3/4 tone is lots better than it used to be with my 1/2 ton where sometimes I had my doubt about what was pulling what. I have a car, a SUV and my truck. If I'm not paying attention, I find my truck to be the vehicle I'm most likely to be speeding in. Just doesn't seem like it's going that fast.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/1/2023 at 11:09 PM, Another JR said:

I started out with 5600 lb bars on my 3500 hd cclb srw as “camper springs.”  I did not like the suspension dynamics.  The front would bounce up faster than the rear when going over dips at highway speed. I changed mine to the standard 5200 lb springs for that model. The ride is better and the front pitch up over dips is gone.  If you are not actually going to put the extra weight on the front I would recommend staying away from camper or plow springs. 
 

If anyone has questions about what is involved in changing them I can answer questions or direct you to my post describing the job.  It was easier than I expected. 

Thanks for the great information. That sounds pretty rough.... After hearing the stories here, I'm going to stay away from any suspension changes other than stock. My heaviest load is my boat at approx. 7,500lb's in which my 2018 2500HD Denali handle's very easily. Also, it appears that these suspension packages may raise the truck one to two inches. My attached garage door is only two inches higher than the spec's of the Ultimate. I do have a pole barn which has a 10' overhead door but, I would rather use my attached garage. Biggest problem is, everything in transit has either the 3500 leaf spring or snow plow package on them. Closest one without, is 260 miles away with the color I want. Thanks again, appreciate it. Ray 👍

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...