Best Cold Air Inatke 6.6 Gasser

[Epsilon Plus]

Chevy gave you a very expensive avenue to pursue the best intake. Be the first to convert to the diesel hood induction system. IATs will be optimal. The timing table will love it. Best of all, the hood scoop won't be fake any more.

Edited January 3, 2024 by Epsilon Plus

[TheFozzmanCometh]

I put an S&B on my 2016 6.0 gasser and LOVE it. It is extremely well built compared to K&N. The top comes with a clear plastic cover that you can take off if you want. I leave mine on and the intake still sings quite nicely.

[64BAwagon]

After over 1500 miles towing my fifth wheel (about 12500#) I noticed that the intake air temp was almost always within a degree or two of the ambient air temp. I took that as evidence that the truck was getting plenty of air and I decided to leave well enough alone. Between this and the superior filtering of the OEM filter I am content to leave it stock. 

 

Now the exhaust is my focus and I am torn between the Borla XR 3 1/2" muffler or the MBRP stainless system. 

[Thundercat838]

Wouldn’t mind seeing someone do that to the hood scoop on the Gas and see what the outcome would be.

 

Just got my truck two months ago but it looks like I’ll be getting the S&B eventually  

[revrnd]

On 1/3/2024 at 9:06 AM, Epsilon Plus said:

Chevy gave you a very expensive avenue to pursue the best intake. Be the first to convert to the diesel hood induction system. IATs will be optimal. The timing table will love it. Best of all, the hood scoop won't be fake any more.

 

Seeing as GM is using the diesel hood on the gassers, I'm surprised nobody in the aftermarket world has come up w/ a kit to make it functional.

 

Thread Hijack Alert:

 

I can't see why w/ the volume of Chev HDs that are sold, that a 'plain' gasser hood couldn't be stamped out (speaking as retired tool & die maker from GM's Oshawa operations). I'd think it simply would be left 'unpierced' before being assembled/hemmed to the hood inner.

 

I know w/ past models the Chevs got a specific bumper depending on whether the truck had fog lights or not. If you bought a GMC w/o foglights, they filled the unused holes w/ plastic 'plugs'.

[64BAwagon]

That way the body shop doesnt need 4 different hoods, just 2. 1 for the Chevy and one for GMC. 

[revrnd]

20 minutes ago, 64BAwagon said:

That way the body shop doesnt need 4 different hoods, just 2. 1 for the Chevy and one for GMC. 

Oh I hear you. Spent 11 years in the Oshawa Truck.

 

One day several of us toolies were commenting on the annual body changes which would've required completely new die sets. This was done with a lot of manual machining, wooden patterns & a lot of hand grinding/'spotting' in New Die Build. Fast forward to the CAD/CAM & CNC era & die making is much less time consuming. For the most part the automakers run a model for 5 or 6 years with a few minor changes mid-cycle w/o any change to the body metal.

[Epsilon Plus]

I am the farthest along with the swap. I have 100% of the parts and 95% of them installed. The problem with the diesel hood intake on the gas is an oil cooler line that conflicts with where the diesel airbox is. The diesel airbox is longer and protrudes into the area where this hard oil cooler line terminates into the radiator. Short of doing some type of plastic welding wizardry to the air lid, to proceed the "easiest" (lol) way is to convert that hard oil line into a flexible AN line or buy some tubing and bend one yourself. I am not familiar with GMs connection style at the radiator. Looks like it plugs into the fitting and uses a copper snap ring to hold it in place and has a plastic cover that slips over. Something tells me there is a chance there is a way to adapt to this and route the oil line away but I've taken a long break from this project and am barely scratching at it once in a while when time permits (it doesn't). Even so, it would need such a hard bend to clear the box that it still probably wouldn't work. A 90' AN fitting probably also sticks out farther than the stock line. What you see below is the diesel lower box and filter fully installed. Note where the lid would sit and seal and the forward most screw hole directly under the line.

 

No bueno.

 

The easier option than even this might just be running an aftermarket external oil cooler with custom AN braided lines. There are block adapters sold that would work.

 

What we really need is the designed and never released gas air box for the diesel hood intake. Not going to happen. Nor will an aftermarket solution come to the rescue. S&B and Banks diesel are also probably just as long as the stock box and would hit the line and also they use a hard upper discharge pipe to the differently placed TB location instead of the flexible stock one so again, no bueno. Sucks to be so close and fail but thems the breaks.

 

 

 

Edited September 28, 2024 by Epsilon Plus

[bruceb58]

As was mentioned earlier, compare the outside temp to what the intake air is(using a scan tool). If they are close to the same there is no benefit to a cold air intake.

Edited September 29, 2024 by bruceb58

[64BAwagon]

10 hours ago, bruceb58 said:

As was mentioned earlier, compare the outside temp to what the intake air is(using a scan tool). If they are close to the same there is no benefit to a cold air intake.

Deleted/repetitive 

Edited September 29, 2024 by 64BAwagon

[Pryme]

11 hours ago, bruceb58 said:

As was mentioned earlier, compare the outside temp to what the intake air is(using a scan tool). If they are close to the same there is no benefit to a cold air intake.

This is worth talking about because it’s true. The scangauge 3 monitors intake air temp and it might as well be an outside temp gauge because it’s always the same as outside air. So I’d think this mod would be more of a ram air vs a cold air. 

Edited September 29, 2024 by Pryme

[revrnd]

8 hours ago, Pryme said:

So I’d think this mod would be more of a ram air vs a cold air. 

I think you're right on that.

[Epsilon Plus]

The only purpose to the diesel hood mod is for OCD weirdos like me who A) Don't like fake scoops on automobiles B) Up until the oil cooler line it was a factory swap with factory parts C) Was willing to throw some money at a cool factory mod since I like most of my stuff to come from GM when possible (see sig).

 

The only performance benefit would be with a max effort power build squeezing every last drop out which is more of a Camaro or fast car thing, not a lumbering truck thing. Most of this was covered in the original swap thread here.

[revrnd]

Put me down as a X2 on the fake hood scoop trend.