Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I’ll try to make a video tomorrow on how to change the tire pressure placard readings with my truck with an Autel TS508.

Edited by rjgvt
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

This video shows how I changed the tire placard for my truck from 55psi for front and rear to 60psi for front and rear. I changed them back to 55psi. The volume silenced when I started my truck. You can still see what I was doing. At the end, just disconnect the OBDII cable and you are done. If you use myGMC app or the Chevy, you should be able to see the updated tire pressures after your truck communicates.

 

Any questions, let me know.

 

EDIT: My phone probably connected to my truck when I turned it on. 

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6S7-uQ-aBw

 

Edited by rjgvt
  • Like 1
Posted
19 minutes ago, rjgvt said:

This video shows how I changed the tire placard for my truck from 55psi for front and rear to 60psi for front and rear. I changed them back to 55psi. The volume silenced when I started my truck. You can still see what I was doing. At the end, just disconnect the OBDII cable and you are done. If you use myGMC app or the Chevy, you should be able to see the updated tire pressures after your truck communicates.

 

Any questions, let me know.

 

EDIT: My phone probably connected to my truck when I turned it on. 

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6S7-uQ-aBw

 

Sweet, thanks! Glad I was wrong about not being able to change the settings in 24+ Global B trucks.

Posted

i did mine the same way. it worked. change in values showed up in my gmc app about 24 hours after. 
you'll notice in the tool, the same sensor part number is listed for both '24-25 trucks and 20-23. if the 24-25 truck is selected, the tool does not give the tire pressure option, but it is available for the 20-23 selection. the 20-23 selection works for the 24-25 trucks. my truck is a '25, built 12/24

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

For everyone lowing their pressure way below what the manufacturer recommends, there may be liability issues upon an accident especially if they see these numbers where realized with a scan tool to artificially reduce the allowed numbers by removing the warnings. 
 

would it actually happen I don’t know but I wouldn’t want to find out if an astute law firm was involved. 
 

7-8,500 pound trucks are supposed to have more pressure than 5-5,700 pound trucks. 

Edited by Pryme
Posted

According to the tire pressure chart, I could run less pressures than I do based on the Cat scale sheet. At 55psi, good for 5700lbs per axle. 
 

Tires warm up to 60 psi. 

Posted

I had my 2015 HD changed right after i got it.  I run my tires 55 front 50 rear.  Never had an issue running 295/55-20.  Now I've moved up to 305/55-20, and running same pressure but tires are heavier ply.  I've sold tires most of my life and never had issues running under pressure in vehicles except for the Firestone issue back in the day.  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I had not signed up until now on here but I've been reading through some of the various threads on this forum for a few months now, some other forums seemed to have such a jumbled mess of various vintages and weight ratings of trucks that I found it impossible to scan through the good and bad of a certain segment of truck type to gain any insight into information I was looking for, this site seemed to stand out for grouping trucks into some decent categories.

 

That brings me to the truck I had just picked up from the dealer a couple of weeks ago after ordering it in early Oct of 2024. Be it GM or Chev, going up the trim level scale, the 20 inch wheels were forced upon a guy and that was that as a 65% aspect ratio side wall isn't my idea of a great riding tire as I would have preferred a 70 if not a 75 aspect ratio. Seems to be the theme these days with the manufactures, large wheels and low profiles. I knew I wanted to stick with stock offset wheels to keep the tires mostly in the fenders due to the gravel roads and all the crap they spread on the winter roads.

 

So my plan I had all along with lowering the placard pressures and figured out from sites like this etc that it was physically possible on the 2024/2025 model with its even more complicated and nanny like system to at least do that much with the truck to stop it from screaming at a guy if lightly loaded and wanting to lower the pressures. I had asked the service manager at the dealer if they would be willing to lower the pressures and the answer I got was of no surprise to me as he said GM says no so we have to abide by what we are told, he said of course we are able to do it, but we are bound by GM not do do it so that's something he said I would have to outsource. The problem is even some tire shops have their rules and they won't do it either, people in high places making rules that don't use logic and common sense !. So it was Bob from Vermont with his own need of lowering pressures and buying the 508 and the video you made to help walk through how you found the right place on the unit to get to the placard setting to change it, that prompted me to order a unit and ( I am not a techy person ) fumble my way through registering and updating its software and the easy part was doing the actual placard change due to your video Bob !.

 

I may have to experiment more with my new placard pressures I computed to put in to get the trigger to happen in the ballpark I want it to but at least I have the tool and can do that as time goes on or jack them back up if I need to if I find I am hauling heavy and not depend on a somewhat unwilling tire shop to change the placard settings again etc and charging me hourly rates to mess around to do it. I should also add that the actual tire pressures I will run will be based off of tire inflation charts for the tire type/size and here in Canada the free DOT highway scales I can slip onto and weigh my axles whenever I feel the need. I have heard say that the trigger for the tpms alarm to go off is around 25% give or take under the placard pressure setting pressure, I don't know how exacting that is so that is my unknown, and so I took a guess so that the tpms alarm will in theory go off a few pounds below my minimum planned pressures to run in the tires.

Edited by Chuck FB
  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/24/2025 at 9:53 AM, rjgvt said:

This video shows how I changed the tire placard for my truck from 55psi for front and rear to 60psi for front and rear. I changed them back to 55psi. The volume silenced when I started my truck. You can still see what I was doing. At the end, just disconnect the OBDII cable and you are done. If you use myGMC app or the Chevy, you should be able to see the updated tire pressures after your truck communicates.

 

Any questions, let me know.

 

EDIT: My phone probably connected to my truck when I turned it on. 

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6S7-uQ-aBw

 

I should have quoted your post when I posted my comment the other day explaining how what you showed in your video worked ( even though the system cut your audio ) . It worked like a charm following your procedure and I don't have a subscription with my truck or any apps or phone connected to it so I can only assume that what if anything would show up in the GM system should be showing my settings I inputted, and very well could be changing them over time as the use of the truck dictates for needing to bump up the tire pressures from the near empty weight requirement at the moment ( near empty for a one ton that is ). When I bought the Autel TS508WF the other day from Napa, the young guy who went to the back and got the unit I had ordered over the phone, he said oh yes I've used one of these lots at the tire shop he had just prior been working at and they used this same wifi version to do all this constant updating and transferring of information within the shop, all completely useless tech to me but was the cheapest version to buy at Napa as its probably more common now than the other versions. He also said be sure and update it before I even try using it, resister it and update it right off the bat as the vehicle info will be guaranteed to be out of date on it otherwise. I also had rounded up a used set of factory 20" wheels for the truck at the time of ordering the truck and was proactive in having a set of Nokian LT3 studded mounted on them, the problem is that I was not aware of the special GM sensors at that time and I had said specifically what these tires were going onto and it went over the heads of two different staff at the tire shop as they figured they knew for sure it would take a sensor they typically use. True, it probably will work but they won't self orientate themselves like these new GM sensors and have recently talked to the tire shop and they will pull their sensors and put in the ones I just bought from GM ... had I realized this a few months ago I could have saved myself and them the hassle but it is what it is. 

 

I also realized since I have not been messing with tpms systems before, that once a tire drops below the pressure the system decides is time to set the alarm ( if it is 25% below the placard set pressure or whatever the vehicle computers system was programmed  to do ), inflating some isn't good enough as its as if it wants to have the tire pressure put up closer to the actual set placard pressure, then once the alarm goes off as per the green pressure reading from orange, lower the tire pressure back down to the pressure one intended to run the tire at. Its all new technology to me personally using it, have driven other vehicles that have it but haven't personally owned one with all this new ( and frustrating ! ) technology.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 2/25/2025 at 8:24 AM, Pryme said:

For everyone lowing their pressure way below what the manufacturer recommends, there may be liability issues upon an accident especially if they see these numbers where realized with a scan tool to artificially reduce the allowed numbers by removing the warnings. 
 

would it actually happen I don’t know but I wouldn’t want to find out if an astute law firm was involved. 
 

7-8,500 pound trucks are supposed to have more pressure than 5-5,700 pound trucks. 

I think running lower tire pressures based on lower axle weights would be easy to defend as consistent with tire manufacturer recommendations and actually offering better traction assuming you select a weight-appropriate pressure. It would be very easy to convince a judge or jury that the max pressures are intended for the maximum load rating, reductions in accordance with the tire manufacture’s table or proportionally to axle weights in the upper 30% of the weight range is supported by physics and engineering, and is reasonable and prudent. 
 

Changing the warning also would be easy to defend as an action intended to maintain the original purpose of the warning system.  Arguably not changing it such that you simply ignore a standing warning would be more of a problem. 
 

 

Edited by Another JR
  • Like 1
Posted

I don't know if this tire inflation chart has been posted on this site but its an invaluable guide to refer to along with an accurate scale to weigh individual axles to know what minimum pressure is required to carry said load. Being this is the HD section of the forum, the LT metric tire chart starting on page 23 and the Imperial measured Flotation LT series on page 31 would be the most commonly used tires for the heavy pickups.

 

 

application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted

Joe Buck

   I have a 2022 Silverado HD 2500 Custom crew cab standard bed. The door placard reads 60psi for the fronts and 70psi for the rears. It is my understanding that these pressures are for maximum load. I don't drive the truck fully loaded for most of the time and was wearing the center of the rear tires out quickly. With a new set of tires I am currently running the fronts at around 62-63psi and the rears at 50-52psi with much better results. I occasionally get a low tire alert on the left rear and I'm wondering if the tire pressure parameters can be reset on the truck?

  • Like 1
Posted

   Sorry, failed to read the previous posts. Sounds like I'll need to get my hands on a scan tool or just live with the occasional warning light.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Big Heim said:

   Sorry, failed to read the previous posts. Sounds like I'll need to get my hands on a scan tool or just live with the occasional warning light.

I am not sure which prior post you read which gave you that impression, its probably more so choosing in the tpms devices list as to which sensor part number your truck currently has installed in its tires along with the trucks year time frame that fits into the choice chosen if using the type of tpms tool that is shown in this thread. I am only guessing that a higher end two way diagnostic tool would also work but I am not a tech so don't take my word on that. But as to your truck year being able to have the tpms placard pressure reset to whatever you desire, I am quite positive that is possible. The weirdness was these 2024/2025 trucks with their new global b computer system that the aftermarket hasn't caught up with to gain access to everything that a GM tech and their tools would have access to for all vehicle systems. Your truck predates this latest over complicated crap computer system thankfully !

 

If you get on well with your tire dealer I expect they won't mind resetting it for you to a lower psi value as they should have tools just like shown in this thread or fancier. It would be more of a question as to what psi you want to reset it to and if you read my prior long winded comments, it seems to be in the ball park of a 25% drop in pressure from the actual placard pressure set into the truck to the point where the low tire pressure alarm goes off and that is right where your at in the low 50's for the rear tires in this case and now the truck is screaming at you for no good reason. So if that makes some sense, its a matter of figuring out what new pressure to program in and front axle is done separately from the rear if you had watched that video and noted that. Being that your factory placard pressure for the front axle is set at 60, you would have to drop the front down to around 45 pounds before the tpms warning would go off.

 

What I'd like to do if you would be interested and happened to have a weigh scale near by, for you to weigh your front axle and your rear axle separately with what you normally carry around with you in the truck and you and if there are any passengers in it as well ... however you normally drive around in this "emptyish" state you typically drive. Those figures and listing out the tire size you have on your truck, I would be able to tell you what minimum pressure you would need to have in the tires to carry that weight. That is not to say you might want to go that low but it would give you the information to know what your lowest safe limit is to run your tires at when more lightly loaded. By the way is this a gas or diesel truck ?

Edited by Chuck FB
  • 1 month later...
Posted

About liability, w/ 1 of my previous trucks that had the TPMS, I had the dealer drop the thresholds, so I could run the tires @ a lower pressure when I wasn't towing my travel trailer. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...