Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I scrolled through a few pages looking for another post on the issue with no luck, so I apologize if this has come up before.

 

I have a 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom, 5.3L 6 speed. About 80k km on it. A couple months ago I had it parked on a bit of a hill outside my office, facing uphill. Probably had been sitting for a couple hours since I last drove it. I started it up and a big cloud of blue/black smoke came out of the tail pipes and smelled like burnt oil. Smoke cleared pretty quick and that was it. I didn't see this happen again for another few weeks, but once again, parked the exact same way as before, I started it up and a huge cloud of smoke and burnt oil smell. I had parked the same way lots of times in between both smoke shows. I haven't seen it do this since. 

 

I had it in at Chev today for an oil change and the tailgate recall and I told them about this. They had a red seal tech check it out. No signs of leaking valves, no codes thrown and he couldn't recreate it. They charged me $170 to tell me they couldn't find anything wrong except the oil level was low (but they didn't say by how much) but that it's normal for these trucks to burn 3L or so of oil every 10k km. They even had documentation from GM Canada backing that up. But just to be safe, they want to track the oil consumption and every 1000km, I have to go back to the dealership, let the truck sit for 15 min and then they check the oil level and log it. I'm in the last 20k km of my powertrain warranty so if something is going on, I want to get it dealt with before it costs me. Anyone experience something similar? My buddy suggested adding a catch can, but to also have the valves and rocker taken apart and cleaned out. This is way above my skill set and sounds expensive. 

 

I don't buy the "this is normal operation" argument because if it was, I would have seen it happening sooner. My driveway is level and I've never seen it happen when I start it at home, so I definitely think hill parking it is a piece of the puzzle. 

Posted
Just now, kevymetal said:

I scrolled through a few pages looking for another post on the issue with no luck, so I apologize if this has come up before.

 

I have a 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom, 5.3L 6 speed. About 80k km on it. A couple months ago I had it parked on a bit of a hill outside my office, facing uphill. Probably had been sitting for a couple hours since I last drove it. I started it up and a big cloud of blue/black smoke came out of the tail pipes and smelled like burnt oil. Smoke cleared pretty quick and that was it. I didn't see this happen again for another few weeks, but once again, parked the exact same way as before, I started it up and a huge cloud of smoke and burnt oil smell. I had parked the same way lots of times in between both smoke shows. I haven't seen it do this since. 

 

I had it in at Chev today for an oil change and the tailgate recall and I told them about this. They had a red seal tech check it out. No signs of leaking valves, no codes thrown and he couldn't recreate it. They charged me $170 to tell me they couldn't find anything wrong except the oil level was low (but they didn't say by how much) but that it's normal for these trucks to burn 3L or so of oil every 10k km. They even had documentation from GM Canada backing that up. But just to be safe, they want to track the oil consumption and every 1000km, I have to go back to the dealership, let the truck sit for 15 min and then they check the oil level and log it. I'm in the last 20k km of my powertrain warranty so if something is going on, I want to get it dealt with before it costs me. Anyone experience something similar? My buddy suggested adding a catch can, but to also have the valves and rocker taken apart and cleaned out. This is way above my skill set and sounds expensive. 

 

I don't buy the "this is normal operation" argument because if it was, I would have seen it happening sooner. My driveway is level and I've never seen it happen when I start it at home, so I definitely think hill parking it is a piece of the puzzle. 

 

 

GM oil consumption limits is 1 quart in 2,000mi/3,200km, not in 1,000km.  

 

Catch can won't stop a full on consumption issue.

 

First step is check for leaks.  Oil cooler lines are very common on this generation truck. 

 

Smoke on cold starts on these engines is most commonly caused from the direct injection fuel injectors which pulse extra fuel on a cold start.  It is mostly black, possibly a blue tint.  If your smoke was mostly all blueish smoke, then oil is a possibility.

 

If it is burning it, its getting past the piston rings, and if that's the case, they are probably carboned up and is what is causing that.  Its possible to try and chemically free the rings with something like BG EPR treatment, but if that doesn't touch it, it would require new rings and likely pistons.  

 

Oil consumption to a degree is normal though.  High RPMs, high loads like lots of WOT or towing can all increase consumption.  

Posted

The dealership is saying 3L/ 10,000km is normal, so that's why they are checking every 1000km to see if there is a consumption issue. 

 

I'll have a look for leaks. You would think their mechanic already did that, but who knows?

 

I've heard about the direct injection fuel injectors the pulsing extra fuel in a cold start, but I don't think that's what I'm seeing, because I feel like I would see smoke more frequently and not just those 2 times parked on a hill. 

 

I really hope it's not a piston/ring issue, but if it was, I'm guessing that would be covered under the powertrain warranty? How would I prove that's the problem though?

 

I understand oil consumption is normal. I'm just a bit shocked they didn't see how much oil was gone when they did the oil change, especially since I brought up the concern of it possibly burning excessive oil.

Posted

I had a similar issue on an older Silverado and it was the tiny o ring on the valves if a few cylinders, but it was a older 2004 with 6 digit miles on it.

 

No problems yet on my 2019 which I purchased new and has 70k+ miles on it.
 

How long of an interval do you go between oil and filter changes?   I have a 2019, but I change it at 6k miles (9.6k km) or less.   I do not let the oil life left indicator dictate when to change.   
 

In my humble opinion 10k miles  (16k km) is way too long.

 

I know you did not mentioned any oil drippings, but if you have a dealer or quick lube do your oil change, make sure they are using correct filter and that it is tightened… also make sure they are putting in 8 quarts.   Most businesses do not employ a certified mechanic for oil change or tire rotation.    Never seen any check the oil level before they take out the crankcase drain bolt.  
 

I would never take my vehicle to a quick lube.   If I can’t change it myself, I take it to the dealer.
 

If you do not do your own changes, check the oil level afterwards.

Posted
3 minutes ago, SteveP45 said:

I had a similar issue on an older Silverado and it was the tiny o ring on the valves if a few cylinders, but it was a older 2004 with 6 digit miles on it.

 

No problems yet on my 2019 which I purchased new and has 70k+ miles on it.
 

How long of an interval do you go between oil and filter changes?   I have a 2019, but I change it at 6k miles (9.6k km) or less.   I do not let the oil life left indicator dictate when to change.   
 

In my humble opinion 10k miles  (16k km) is way too long.

 

I know you did not mentioned any oil drippings, but if you have a dealer or quick lube do your oil change, make sure they are using correct filter and that it is tightened… also make sure they are putting in 8 quarts.   Most businesses do not employ a certified mechanic for oil change or tire rotation.    Never seen any check the oil level before they take out the crankcase drain bolt.  
 

I would never take my vehicle to a quick lube.   If I can’t change it myself, I take it to the dealer.
 

If you do not do your own changes, check the oil level afterwards.

When I bought the truck I got talked into the maintenance package so all of my oil changes are essentially pre paid at the dealership until 2026. I would assume the dealership lube techs are doing the changes to GM spec. I do go by the oil interval indicator in the truck though. My truck works pretty hard, I'm a construction manager so I tow and haul with it a fair bit, and I spend a bit of time with it off road on weekends so it never makes it to 16k km. I usually get about 10k km for an interval.

 

The only reason they would have checked the oil level before draining this time was because I brought up the burning oil issue. They had one of their red seal techs looking at things before they did the oil change and he found the level to be low. Why he didn't see how low I don't know.

Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, newdude said:

If it is burning it, its getting past the piston rings, and if that's the case, they are probably carboned up and is what is causing that.  Its possible to try and chemically free the rings with something like BG EPR treatment, but if that doesn't touch it, it would require new rings and likely pistons. 

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This

 

OCI is way to long for a GM provided Dexos licensed oil. 4K to 5K kilometers. I doubt BG ERP would free those rings. (Been there, did that). Possible, yea, likely, not. Even if it did, continuing with this oil regiment will lead you right back to the same issue shortly. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This

 

OCI is way to long for a GM provided Dexos licensed oil. 4 to 5 kilometers. I doubt BG ERP would free those rings. (Been there, did that). Possible, yea, likely, not. Even if it did, continuing with this oil regiment will lead you right back to the same issue shortly. 

So should I be going back to Chev and telling them to check the pistons and rings for build up?

Posted

Do you know the procedure to check the rings and pistons for carbon build up?

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

Do you know the procedure to check the rings and pistons for carbon build up?

Aside from the crank case pressure oil cap test?

Posted
2 hours ago, kevymetal said:

So should I be going back to Chev and telling them to check the pistons and rings for build up?

 

You are under warranty. Let them play this out. They are doing the oil consumption test, correct? 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

You are under warranty. Let them play this out. They are doing the oil consumption test, correct? 

Yes, I am under warranty still and yes, we have started the oil consumption test. I'm just trying to educate myself. They charged me $170 for diagnostics yesterday because "they didn't find anything wrong". Basically, they will keep charging me their hourly shop rate to try and diagnose the issue, until they find it and determine it's covered under warranty. Even though the advisor agreed with me something seems suspicious. 

Posted
18 minutes ago, kevymetal said:

Yes, I am under warranty still and yes, we have started the oil consumption test. I'm just trying to educate myself. They charged me $170 for diagnostics yesterday because "they didn't find anything wrong". Basically, they will keep charging me their hourly shop rate to try and diagnose the issue, until they find it and determine it's covered under warranty. Even though the advisor agreed with me something seems suspicious. 

 

 

What you need to do is have them start an oil consumption test to verify how much is being consumed.  

Posted
2 hours ago, kevymetal said:

So should I be going back to Chev and telling them to check the pistons and rings for build up?

 

 

They aren't going to open up your engine, not without a verified oil consumption test.  

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

What you need to do is have them start an oil consumption test to verify how much is being consumed.  

I've said 3 times in this thread that we've started an oil consumption test....

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...