Jump to content

Trade High Country for ZR2?

gregus73
 Share

Recommended Posts

gregus73 Enthusiast

gregus73

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi, 

 

A dealer offered to trade my 2024 High Country for a 2026 ZR2.

Mine is heading out of warranty in August. 

 

It has been a perfect truck and planned on keeping it for 7-10 years. I do mostly highway driving and have a 5,500lb jet boat that I tow.

The dealer is offering to beat my current payment and gets me into a new 2026 with a full warranty.

 

Would you consider this or just stay with the High Country.

I would be gaining the 2" lift, better shocks, locking diff, HUD and camera rear view mirror.

 

I would be losing the Cadillac like comfort of my HC, moonroof, wood trim, and I am thinking an extra speaker in the dash.

 

Both are diesel and has the same options plus or minus the ones listed above.

 

I am just concerned how the ZR2 is for highway driving and driving in the rain. The HC has been flawless.

 

 

Edited by gregus73
CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Tires determine how they drive on the highway and in the rain. Being lifted by 2in means really nothing here when it's just bombing down the freeway.

 

Good chance that your current truck runs all season passenger truck tires of some sort and the ZR2 is going to run a minimum a C rated or even an E rated LT truck tire. They will be heavier, likely louder and have an offroad tread to them. All of those things can make a ride worse feeling is some cases if you are so used to riding in luxury. Most name brand offroad tires are just fine in the rain until maybe half tread, then you might notice them being easier to spin with enough power in the wet.

 

Also expect less fuel mileage in the ZR2 with the suspension and tires. 

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

The young me would do the deal. The older me would keep the HC, possibly buying extended warranty. 

Atlas Senior Enthusiast

Atlas

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, gregus73 said:

Hi, 

 

A dealer offered to trade my 2024 High Country for a 2026 ZR2.

Mine is heading out of warranty in August. 

 

It has been a perfect truck and planned on keeping it for 7-10 years. I do mostly highway driving and have a 5,500lb jet boat that I tow.

The dealer is offering to beat my current payment and gets me into a new 2026 with a full warranty.

 

Would you consider this or just stay with the High Country.

I would be gaining the 2" lift, better shocks, locking diff, HUD and camera rear view mirror.

 

I would be losing the Cadillac like comfort of my HC, moonroof, wood trim, and I am thinking an extra speaker in the dash.

 

Both are diesel and has the same options plus or minus the ones listed above.

 

I am just concerned how the ZR2 is for highway driving and driving in the rain. The HC has been flawless.

 

 

 

Nope.

 

Doesn't matter if the dealer is "beating your payment". I'm guessing the term is getting extended, and you just took a 2-year thrashing on depreciation on your High Country. You're likely not saving any money, just prolonging the pain. ZR2's are, IMO, are a ridiculously overpriced 1500 trim.

 

The ZR2 tow rating is down from the regular Silverado because of the lift. Taller entry/exit, IMO less comfortable for everyday driving. And while driving in the rain wouldn't worry me, driving in mixed snow conditions would as the ZR2 on has selectable lockers, no G80/ limited slip. You're either running the lockers or not, and those are for offroad use only.

 

Now, I'm biased for the 3.0 diesel. It's a great engine, but it's not something that would make me switch from a V8 that's served me well and is only 2 years old.

Homer1959 Enthusiast

Homer1959

Posted
Posted

What drives you—emotions or reason?

 

Let’s say you hadn’t received this offer from the dealer, who is driven by reason. Was trading your current truck part of your plan anyway? If not, there’s your answer.  

 

On the other hand we live only once so ... 🙂 

gregus73 Enthusiast

gregus73

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies. It would be for 2500 ZR2.

My wife thinks the extended warranty makes most sense.

I am still waiting for their quote on the gasser ZR2 as well.

 

The dealer approached me with the temptation of something shiny and new, with a new warranty. I test drove the gasser and diesel ZR2s yesterday for grins, with no intention of mailing an immediate deal. I also have reservations about losing MPG, if I were to go with the gas. 
On the plus side of gas, no more yearly emissions tests, def or expensive services.

 

Yea, I would lose ground for owning the vehicle 2 and a half years and start over with a new payment. Not fun.
 

I am on my second diesel and love the Duramax engines. I am hesitant about the 6.6 gas.

The driving experience on the 6.6 gas was very different. The Duramax does seem to have more get up and go. The gas was peppy, just different. I am only towing 5500-6000lbs so do not need the diesel.

 

 

Edited by gregus73
Pryme Senior Enthusiast

Pryme

Posted
Posted

I wouldn’t do that deal but if my dealer wanted to trade straight up for another ZR vehicle, the ZR1x I would take that deal haha. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
gregus73 Enthusiast

gregus73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was running it by my nephew, who thinks it is a bad deal too.

i also called insurance and it would run me $40 extra per month for the ZR2. The biggest thing that is holding me back is the miles to empty on the gasser ZR2. I am use to 670-700 miles per tank on the HC diesel. The dealer said 650 per tank on the gas ZR2 and I am calling shenanigans on that.

Byrds8 Enthusiast

Byrds8

Posted
Posted

I believe you said a gas ZR2 2500? If that is the case, it's BS 100%. I have a gas 2500 and get around 11 in the city. It sure as hell isnt jumping to 18 on the hwy. Most likely, if youre talking hwy MPG, it will get 14. That would put you at 504 a tank.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, gregus73 said:

I was running it by my nephew, who thinks it is a bad deal too.

i also called insurance and it would run me $40 extra per month for the ZR2. The biggest thing that is holding me back is the miles to empty on the gasser ZR2. I am use to 670-700 miles per tank on the HC diesel. The dealer said 650 per tank on the gas ZR2 and I am calling shenanigans on that.

 

 

If you are averaging 12mpg on a gas ZR2 HD, x 36 gallons, 432mi total estimated range.  Definitely not 650mi lol.

 

A regular gas HD typically averages 12-14mpg empty driving per tank.  You "could" squeak 15-17mpg on a long highway run.  I'd garner a ZR2 would get 1-2mpg worse across the board because lift (lower aero) and 35" Goodyear Territory MT tires.  

 

A Duramax ZR2 HD, expect a similar loss of 1-2mpg.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Monthly payment for insurance tells me you need better money management.

  • Like 1
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Monthly payment for insurance tells me you need better money management.

That depends. Small monthly payments while a lump sum earns interest could cover the small payments amount. One never knows.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Cheaper to pay yearly, works for me.

Atlas Senior Enthusiast

Atlas

Posted
Posted

There are lots of use cases for a 2500 instead of a 1500 but I still don't see the value add in a ZR2 package on one unless you're specifically using it off-highway.

 

Another $480 per year for insurance on top of it all is ridiculous. It's still a Chevy pickup.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...