Jump to content

Bastard Gardener...

ricko2

By ricko2
in Hobbies, Tech & Outdoors

Recommended Posts

ricko2 Enthusiast

ricko2

Posted
Posted

So our homeowners Assc. decided to cut down some trees, and the gardener forgot to latch to big door on the back of his truck, it swung open when he drove by our house, and hit the truck. Not huge damage, but still the first dent, and I didn't even do it! Worst part is, the driver denied it, (I watched it happen!) then suddenly didn't speak English any more. Good thing for me the project manager came by just then to see what was going on, so I think its going to get taken care of. It BETTER!!!

 

Body shop said $1500.00, way out of control, but I'm not paying!!

 

Dent4.jpg

 

Dent3.jpg

 

Dent1.jpg

 

:driving::D:mad::D

General Lee 01 Senior Enthusiast

General Lee 01

Posted
Posted

I know you've got the red-ass from this, but you are pretty lucky. Those swinging doors can wreak hell when being controlled by an uncareful persons.

 

 

This is a good example as to why untrained personnel (or stupid personnel) shouldn't operate large trucks or heavy equipment.

pwall Senior Enthusiast

pwall

Posted
Posted

First dent always hurts the most...especially due to someone's stupidity.

mmmikkke Senior Enthusiast

mmmikkke

Posted
Posted

I don't think I'd get that fixed if it were *my* truck, at least not yet. A repainted door is at *least* as much of a problem as that little dent is.

 

-paint might not match

-paint might peel off after 3 or 4 years

-paint might have runs or orangepeel

-paint might not match in artificial light even it it *does* match in sunlight

ricko2 Enthusiast

ricko2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I don't think I'd get that fixed if it were *my* truck, at least not yet.  A repainted door is at *least* as much of a problem as that little dent is.

 

-paint might not match

-paint might peel off after 3 or 4 years

-paint might have runs or orangepeel

-paint might not match in artificial light even it it *does* match in sunlight

 

 

 

 

Exactly what I was thinking. Replace the window and the black molding, and touch up the paint and live with it. I'll sure take the $1500.00, and make a couple of payments on the truck!

RedChevy99 Enthusiast

RedChevy99

Posted
Posted

My mom caused the first dent in my baby. She let her car door swing open and it left a dent the size of a quarter on the rear fender well. I bought one of those "pops a dent"(not worth the $) things and it pulled it out a bit, still noticable though. I was mad for a little while, but hey, it adds character(but it would have been nice if it didn't happen).

mrfishaholic Enthusiast

mrfishaholic

Posted
Posted

it doesnt appear to have gone to the metal in the photograph. You would be amazed at what an experienced guy some car polish and a buffer could do, it might not even be detectabel. An experience car detail shop should be able to do a pretty good job for about a hundred bucks or less, and will at least make it a reduced appearance!

jerneedog Enthusiast

jerneedog

Posted
Posted

Yikes! Hope you get it taken care of.

 

Just the other month, the neighbor girl across the street, backed into the left rear

fender of my truck. She told me about it and within 30mins, her Father called me

to tell me they would pay for it out of pocket. It ended up costing $1,600.00 and

some change for a new fender, Z-71 decal, primer, paint, and clear coat from the dealer.

curly Enthusiast

curly

Posted
Posted

I think I would have someone look at it that does "spot touch-ups". It would be enough to "blend it in" and make it less noticeable. I have seen cars that were repaired by a local person that does touch-ups and they did a great job :lol: .

TheTrueMoron Enthusiast

TheTrueMoron

Posted
Posted

I, too, have had someone put a large dent in my truck. It happened a few weeks ago. I was running out to my truck to go to school and there was a huge dent in the back of my right rear fender. It couldn't have been a car, so I think it may have been lawn crews. At least someone is paying for yours to get fixed. Mine is going to continue to have its dent for....ever.

Wattertoys Enthusiast

Wattertoys

Posted
Posted
I, too, have had someone put a large dent in my truck.  It happened a few weeks ago.  I was running out to my truck to go to school and there was a huge dent in the back of my right rear fender.  It couldn't have been a car, so I think it may have been lawn crews.  At least someone is paying for yours to get fixed.  Mine is going to continue to have its dent for....ever.

 

 

 

 

I put a dent in my door, Was really bummed! it was about two inches from where yours is and I had a dentless guy take it out for $40.00 in less than 10 minutes and I put a little elbow greese and buffed out the little mark that was left and there is not any distortion or anything. He went in the inspection plugg hole near the latch. Awesome. and still factory paint.

:lol:

  • 2 weeks later...
DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
Posted

Yikes, man that sucks - I would not be happy 'bout that. But hey, at least the gardener was banging your truck and not your wife. . . (j/k).

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted
  But hey, at least the gardener was banging your truck and not your wife. . . (j/k).

 

 

 

 

 

Man...That ain't right! :D:(:driving::crackup::):)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,258 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...