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Original Plugs & Wires replaced at 65000

Tucson_02Silverado

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Tucson_02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Tucson_02Silverado

Posted
Posted

Finally replaced the original plugs and wires at 65000 on my 02 5.3L. I've been wanting to do them since 50000.

 

I have to add that the engine was running fine and from that standpoint there was no real reason to make the change.

 

The real reason for wanting to do the change was due to some of the "horror" stories on this and other forums in the past, basically during 2003/2004. Some of the horrors was plugs all misgapped at anything but .060, electrode "discs" missing on the plugs, electrodes grossly erroded, plugs stuck in head and broken off during removal, wires must be destroyed to remove.

 

My experience:

Plugs removed AC Delco 41-974 12563707 all "loose" gapped at .060 (wear)

These plugs do not look like that they were of the "disc" design, more of a 'funnel' cone shape.

Electrodes did not show abnormal/uneven wear.

Some carbon on the ceramic, but nothing excessive.

No evidendence of any spark tracking.

Wires had no cuts and silicone boots/jackets still fairly pliable/

Wires were not too bad removing, except....(below about #8)

Dielectric grease on boots basically non-existentant, some very minor dried trace on plug's connector.

Plugs a bit too tight removing (overnight cold engine, 80 outside temp).

Anti-Seize compound also not much evidence it existed.

Plugs could have been cleaned up, and the gap tightened up, easilly lasting 100000

 

The only removal problem I had was with #8. Due to the dipstick and AC accumilator it was a bit troublesome removing the plug boot. I didn't have a boot puller, just slip-joint pliers, but it was still difficult. Even with using pliers on the boot, the boot did not really looked mangled.

 

Replacements:

MSD 8.5mm SuperConductor 32829

AC Delco RapidFire Platinum 12, gapped .060

 

Problems:

#8 installing plug was hard to start threading, difficult to fully seat wire boot on plug.

MSD, at the coil (all coils) side took a bit of manuevering to fully seat. The original Packard wires had a nylon collar at the base of coil boot connector making the seating much easier.

Near the #8 wire is a heat shield underneath the AC accumilator where the edge is upward facing and the wire is about a finger widths away. Will need to get some 3/8" fuel hose slit to cover over so that the wire won't rub on a metal edge.

 

As I stated there was no real reason to replace the plugs or the wires, but the idle is now very smoooooth. There is no S.O.P. driveability difference noticed, test drove after install 10 in the city and another 30 on the freeway @ 80.

 

Lesson learned:

Given that if there was Anti-Seize on the plug threads and dielectric grease on the wire boots, it would be prudent to "re-goo" the plugs/wires at the next 50000 mark or replace. 6 or 1/2 dozen for either effort.

 

 

I haven't seen them, but if the #8 is troublesome with a small block, I'd hate to work with the #8 on an 8.1L.

C & A s Dad Senior Enthusiast

C & A s Dad

Posted
Posted

Next time you change them, try a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet with a 1 1/2" extension directly into the spark plugs socket. You are direct on the plug with no angles or joints. I just changed mine and it worked great. I am 6' 2" so I did not need anything to stand on. If someone was shorter, they would need a step stool to reach back there. Mine had 50K and the plugs looked great. Gap was at .060 and there was no carbon at all. I was amazed how good they looked but I was not about to screw them back in. I replaced my wires with Taylor 8.2 Thundervolts and was able to use the factory boot heat sheilds.

 

Nice smooth idle.

gmcjoe Senior Enthusiast

gmcjoe

Posted
Posted

I waited until 80K for my first plug change, my OEM delcos were burnt pretty bad. So much for the GM 100K maintenance recommendation :)

Tucson_02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Tucson_02Silverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I didn't have any problems removing the plugs, just the wire boot on #8. The only other was that the plugs seemed to be in a little tighter then they should have been.

 

I forgot to add that I used a 3/8 standard handle ratche with 1-1/2" extension on the right side (2-4-6-8) and 3" extension on the left side (1-3-5-7).

LSVLance Enthusiast

LSVLance

Posted
Posted

I replaced mine at 63,000 miles...they were a mess.

 

SparkPlug1.jpg

 

SparkPlug2.jpg

 

BTW...this was on my 2500HD with the 8.1 and there was NO issues at all with removing and replacing them. One of the easier plug changes I've done in a long time. It idles MUCH smoother now and I gained back about 1 mpg that I had lost over the years...

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
I replaced mine at 63,000 miles...they were a mess.

 

SparkPlug1.jpg

 

SparkPlug2.jpg

 

BTW...this was on my 2500HD with the 8.1 and there was NO issues at all with removing and replacing them.  One of the easier plug changes I've done in a long time.  It idles MUCH smoother now and I gained back about 1 mpg that I had lost over the years...

 

 

 

 

Thats one ugly plug :)

  • 1 month later...
CapitalTruck Senior Enthusiast

CapitalTruck

Posted
Posted

When I'm taking the plug wires off of the plugs should I pull on the rubber part of the boot or the metal shield? I am having a bitch of a time getting one of the wires off. I am currently pulling on the metal, can I safely pull on the little rubber section that shows on the top of the shield or will that damage the assembly?

juliedean Enthusiast

juliedean

Posted
Posted
Maybe a stupid question, but why can I not see the picture of the plug? For some reason, photos like this do not show up on my screen.

 

Any adivse?

 

 

 

 

Check the Preferences of the browser. See what options you have checked for "Load Images."

 

If you have "for the originating web site only" checked, images on this forum will likely not show up, as they are posted at a third-party website and the truck forum simply links to the files there.

 

We are using Firefox as our main browser, other browsers might have different labels but probably the exact same functions buried somewhere in the "Content" tab of Preferences.

  • 7 months later...
nimmer Enthusiast

nimmer

Posted
Posted

Just finished replacing the plugs and wires on my 2001 GMC Sierra 5.3L 8 cyl. The hardest part of the job was getting the plug wire boots off. The wires that came off had 117 Delphi 'written' on them and also the word 'packard'. replaced them with ACD# 748GG, GM# 88894393 new wires. The plugs that came out were NGK PZTR5A and they also had the AC DELCO number 12567759. The local dealer gave me AC Delco 41-985 12571164 Iridium replacements. I didn't gap them out of the box based on 'suggestions' from the dealer and other folks here on this forum. Sure hope the 'new' parts were correct and that I didn't have to gap the plugs. The truck started and took it around the block, next I've got to see how it runs on the highway.

 

Just want to say thanks to all of the other folks on this forum that provided helpful hints and directions to complete the job.

callisto Enthusiast

callisto

Posted
Posted

I replaced the plugs on my '87 Silverado's 350 because it was idling rough. Lo and behold the guy who owned it before me put the plugs for the carb version in when I have the TBI. They also reversed up two wires, so that did not help either. I'll try to post some pics of those beasts. Amazing.

saltwater_addict Enthusiast

saltwater_addict

Posted
Posted

man i did mine at 100k and dont remember them being that bad. also replaced them with the bosch platinum +4's which everyone seems to hate, but i havent had any problems. i guess i just got lucky. bout that time again so i guess i need to start researching soon. can you buy those taylor wires without having to go online?

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