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Got a few projects done this past weekend! Noticed a loud pop after turning all the way right, upon further investigation torn pass side CV boot which obviously flung grease all over the suspension components. Got it swapped out for an OEM axle from GMpartsgiant, only casualty was a sway bar end link that was extremely rusted and even my 1/2" Milwaukee fuel impact wouldnt make it budge. Breaker bar finally snapped the bolt which was expected at this point. Funny story while at the local parts store.. I go in and tell the lady I need a sway bar end link, AC Delco. 2014 GMC Sierra half ton. She asks "what model?" uhhh.. I already told you. "Yes I understand it's an SUV but is it a 1500, 2500, 3500?" Excuse me, what?! SUV???? Then she brings me a tie rod end.. OK not to judge but I think you need to find a new profession! Next up, a project I've had on the backburner for months. Upgrading the terrible OEM Projectors! Went with The Retrofit Source Retroquik system. NHK G5-X projectors, Morimoto D2H 35w 6k bulbs, and Hylux A0050 45w ballasts. With the higher powered ballasts, brings the temp color rating down to 5k - 5500k which is what I was looking for. Headlights out, time to start cutting. Didn't want to mess with butyl and separating the lens from the housing again so cut the back piece of the housing off. Made sure to have at least two notches so for assembly it fit together like a puzzle. Propane torch and a utility knife was my cheap way of having a hot knife. Went this route instead of using a dremel to avoid having plastic shavings inside. OEM projector on the left, G5-X on the right. Check out those amazing fresnels that GM decided was such a great idea! New bracket wasn't a perfect fit, had to get the dremel out again. Then while mounting the bracket, I noticed my kit had four bolts and only two nuts. Luckily I had some small M4 lock nuts laying around or else I was SOL for the night. Installed and time for a test fit before sealing the headlight back up. First test fire, system is flickering. Relays are buzzing so I know it's a power/ground issue. Rechecked all my connections, got the multimeter out, hour and a half later I'm at a loss what's wrong. Last thing to check was the fuse for the relay harness which I figured couldn't be the issue because it's either blown or not blown, right? Not always the case as I figured out.. one of the pins on the 20a fuse was cracked causing arcing through the 12v power. Replaced fuse, voila, we have light! Now I realize why they always say to check your grounds and fuses first. Sealed the headlights back up with black RTV silicone, let it sit for 24 hours and reassembly started. Thanks for coming to my Ted talk. Output shots below! Wish I had a better "before" picture to compare. Pictures don't really do it justice how much the lighting has improved overall. Nice cut off line, brighter and larger hotspot, and the best part I won't be blinding on coming traffic anymore.

I just have it done at the dealer on every oil change. I have a business wherein I barely have enough time to even wash my truck (but I do) and, I recently hired a lawn guy because I just don't have the time. Still, getting that cabin filter cleaned/replaced on a regular basis is very important!

definatly good to have a VCX nano, I recomemnd HPtuners scanner

That looks good for most DIY at home. I have the vcx nano for GM. It already paid for itself after one use. I bought my truck used with only 1 set of key yet the truck shows 2 set of keys being active. I used it to deactivated all key/fob, cut my own keys and reprogram 3 set of key/fob. Just imagine how much the stealership would charge just to cut and program. I have also use it to program other modules thru ACDelco SPS services, an additional $40 access for 2 years.

So after researching dropped trucks 14-18 silverado 4x4 trucks with stamped steel /aluminum arms I cant seem to find the mcgauphys #34204 drop spindles with upper control arms. Any help would be appreciated greatly

I’m not totally sure, thought it was the classic push in the lock and jam the ignition. He had a 03 cateye, so I figured that’s what happened.

torque pro is ok, but if i found the pids and other parameters where incorrect, and would give erroneous data. just get the HPtuners obd module, you can thank me later

If you're looking for the best tone I recommend routing and dumping the exhaust inside your cab. This will give you the best sound experience and also not annoy everybody else around you.

Swapped the RST rims for the Trail Boss rims. I have a 2" Lift, Borla S-type exhaust and S&B intake all on order.

The GM dealer oil pricing sheet. It has GM part#s and it also has ExxonMobil part#s on the list. They (Exxon Mobil) supply the bulk products, bottled Dexos blend (5w20, 5w30, 10w30) and full synthetic (0w20, 5w30), Mobil 1 products, Mobil 1 ESP for the LT1/LT4/LT5/LTA, Delvac 15w40 for diesels, 8 speed LV ATF HP, Dexron VI and some others.

Diesel vs gas yes. Boils mostly down to emissions system protection so low sulfated ash content. Gas oils however are heading down this route as well. Both gas and diesel oils, especially the latest gas engine oils are designed for turbo deposit control and DI fuel contamination. As far as gas oil ACDelco Dexos dealer vs Mobil 1, there are probably slight variations in the additive packages. Correct you got it.

I just wanted to add here as I just got a new iPhone recently and went through hours of talking with Apple to try and figure something out. I was in the boat of I’d plug my phone in (I have a center console with a OEM Apple cable) and I’ll I would get is charging. Phone could do Bluetooth calls, but would not do carplay. I tried 4 other iPhones in my truck and they all instantly went to carplay. I tried my phone in a friend’s car and my phone went right to carplay. Did all of these tests with Apple and restarts of phone and truck and eventually found (in the truck, not phone) the settings screen. Scrolled to the Apple CarPlay option, and manually clicking “add device” while my phone was plugged in forced the CarPlay message to pop on my phone. Works perfectly now. just wanted to put this out there so people might find that setting faster and not be dumb like me.

The seats in this truck is the only thing I have found I absolutely hate. Everything else is pretty nice. The seats are just so uncomfortable. The only vehicle I have ever owned with worse was a Honda Pilot.

When I purchased the GM CAI, the directions stated that it had to be flashed by the dealer and there was a code in with it that the dealer used.

Hey thanks for the fuse suggestion. I searched the threads and found the one you are talking about. I followed the instructions and it seems to be works. Basically you have to pull the fuse while the engine is running then put the shift lever to 4x4 and put the fuse back. Fingers crossed that it continues to works! Thanks again.

This is something that I have been thinking about. I'm the type of person that would like to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. I'd like to be able to read codes on multiple different vehicles. I'd also like to be able to access the GM modules that are in my truck. - I've been looking at the Foxwell NT614. Thoughts?

No problem, its easier to talk with him through text. If you want to go the handheld route I have a Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 that Im going to be selling soon. Let me know either way.

Found out today, that if your headlight knob is in "AUTO," and you turn your wipers ON (to anything other than OFF and NOT windshield washer) for more than a second or two, your headlights automatically turn ON.

Put Amsoil in this last oil change, so far really haven't notice a difference on mpg or loss of oil from what I've had in it before which was Mobile1 from factory fill. Not too worried other than a good option. Used several other Amsoil products in several vehicles and toys I've had so know how it works. Buddy of mine works at GM at the proven grounds doing testing and its all he uses and sells, so I'm good with it. -grover67

Speaking of cabin filters. I got a K&N. Super easy to just take it out, clean it and put it back in.

More thoughts - change your cabin filter. I was amazed how dirty this could get just from one long road trip. Find a cheap source online, stock up on a few. I change mine 3-4times a year and don't feel its too much. Always find dirt and other junk in it. Check the age of the battery. I hate cheap batteries, so I always replace mine (with Northstar), and then every 5y. I guess with good jump packs now this is maybe overkill, but I'm that way. Because I like weekend truck projects, and been on the wrong side of failures: I don't know how long I'll go on my front hubs. My Jeep's seem to go through them around 100-120k (timkin I think). Not sure what causes GMs to wear out yet, but having had one fail on a road trip (not a quick fix with tools in the truck), I am of the persuasion for this to be preventative rather than reactive. Similar for ball Joints and steering end links. I don't really trust them past 100k, but I am not there yet (61k), but I will replace when I get there. Probably together with hubs. U-joints: I don't get how these things wear. When I replaced them on my Jeep TJ just as a high mileage project (110k), looking inside the caps, it didn't make sense how they didn't blow up. It was rusty, gritty and black inside where the needle bearing were. To me, it seemed like they should have already failed. However, I have never had one fail. Magic I guess . This is a pain to do, even with a good press. But fun none the less. Take the belt off and check the pulleys. Especially the water pump. Mine was close to failing, but I caught it (wobbly). Listen for any rattles, squeaks, or roughness. Water pump is easy, alternator too, but more expensive. Idler and tensioner are simple too and pretty inexpensive. Never done the AC, on any car, truck or jeep. I like 100k because its when you get to do the big items and trade factory stuff for higher quality parts. Again, that just how I see it. The other side of the coin is: if the factory got you this far, whey not use the same stuff? Because, I don't. Except brake rotors. GM factory rotors are indestructible. Having tried Centric, EBC, and Napa on other trucks and SUVs...I really like the GM factory.

To do that, one will need a scanner that is more than $200. I have an Autel MaxiSys - I like to work on cars. I, also, have an Autosync with BTDiesel which unlocks the BCM and HMI for programming. Also, a SuperChips F5 for unlocking the ECM. If one just wants to read codes, and get resulting information, there are many. If one wants to reprogram modules and dig in deeper, it's gonna cost a lot.

I'm not into the low trucks, but, damn, @Slowarado18 that looks good!

Took some pics yesterday

Of course the saga continues... towed the truck back to the GM dealer to have the new transmission re-programmed. They just called and said they couldn't get it to program and thought they were having issues communicating back with GM and will try again tomorrow. I'm ready for this ride to come to an end.

Don’t forget the truck nuts on the back to complete the look!

Over night at 60 for me.

Funny how things change over time. I'm now a big fan of quiet and stealthy for my ride.

So... you recommend going illegal and annoying? Gotcha! To each their own!

Though recommended, the suspension does not need to be installed by GM. Once the install is completed, you can take the truck to the dealership and they can upload the calibration changes to the vehicle as it was included in the price of the kit. Also, as mentioned above, I have yet to see a warranty dispute due to utilizing a different shock than the factory shock.

I’ve been running the Kryptonite Stage 3 kit for a while now with 35x12.5x20 on 20x9 with a +10 offset with no rubbing issues at all, just enough tire poke to give it a more aggressive look that it needed! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When the truck is running and you are adding air to the tires, the truck will beep when the tire gets to the correct pressure.

Now just get my wife to remember this and we will make some progress. Every time it is pull once, look for unlock button. Every time I say, you just have to pull it twice.

Turning on rear defroster activates heated mirrors if equipped.

I couldn't figure out what what going on when my high beams started turning on by themselves, I later found out that if you double tap the brights it turns the auto high beam feature on/off.