Silverado-Hareek

Nice I'll check this out tonight after work.

Interesting I'll have to read into that more then. I was under the impression you couldn't do this but I guess I'm mistaken. It would definitely be much less headache to not have to worry about emptying the can or the can overfilling. That's my one complaint about the RX can you have no way of knowing how full it is. I've been draining it every 500 miles to get an idea of how full it's getting so I don't let it get too full and accidentally pull more oil into the intake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So there are some OEM setups routed this way?

Moisture aside though, the oil that's captured in a catch can isn't 100% oil either and shouldn't be returned to your pan. Admittedly I'm not that well versed in engines but someone here explained this concept in the oil catch can thread because someone else had the same idea of trying to trap the oil and pipe it back into their engine. You're talking about the oil trapped from the PCV gases right?

Do we know about what temperatures this problem is happening at? I've only every seen people say extremely cold weather but I don't think I've seen an approximate temperature posted anywhere.

Yeah I don't think you're supposed to do this man. Otherwise it would just come from the factory this way which solves the valve buildup issue and the PCV issue. One of the main reasons manufacturers don't install catch cans from the factory is because it requires the driver of the vehicle to check it often and drain it. That's a tough sell to a soccer mom in her Suburban. If all they had to do was catch the oil and route it back to the oil pan, they would have already gone this route.

Yeah I can't speak for Canada I'm not familiar with how they do things under their government regulations. Down here, it's the brand of gasoline that determines the amount and type of additives, not the octane rating. For example Shell has the same additives across all of their octanes of gas....87 or 89 or 93, all the same additives. But because they're a top tier brand their certified to have more additives than a non top tier fuel. I just used Sunoco as an example because they were the first brand that popped into my head that wasn't on the Top Tier list I really haven't researched them that well. Sunoco may have the additives as they claim but $20,000 is mere pennies for these companies to pay to get certified so I'm curious why they wouldn't just pay it. I agree I don't think their fuel sucks....it is a better known brand for sure. So why not pay the $20k and get certified? My guess is it's not just the $20k that's the problem. Top tier requires every drop of gas under the brand regardless of station or location to have the same additive properties. My guess is they have to upgrade some of their infrastructure to ensure this is the case so there's upgrade/construction costs involved, not just the certification fee. Doesn't mean their gas is bad, just means they can't pass the test 100% of the time. I suspect over time as they upgrade everything they'll eventually get certified. I'd certainly trust Sunoco fuel over some other off brand station for sure.

Yeah in my opinion it pretty much just comes down to ease of access. Mine's a little harder to reach being mounted to the brake booster but either spot is fine. Freezing will only be an issue if the can is too full and the airflow gets blocked. At which point freezing doesn't matter because the unfrozen liquid would get sucked through as well. And the can is just as likely to freeze in either spot. So just mount it where it's most convenient for you and be sure to drain it properly and not let it get too full. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it's the same idea but BG supposedly is the holy grail of cleaning agents and it's a three part system that goes through different areas of the engine and fuel system. All I know is it was $150 for my wife's Hyundai Accent, BG warranties the engine up to $4,000 if you do this every 15,000 miles, and my mechanic who I really trust recommends it over the other products out there. He claimed BG actually had to dial back the performance of their chemicals because of the EPA or something to that effect haha

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154204-oil-catch-can/ Happy reading man! Lots of good info there. I put an RX can on my truck.

Gotcha sorry for your troubles. Have you looked into the BG Induction service? I'm wondering if doing this every 15,000 miles per their maintenance plan is the way to go. It's a little more pricey to do that service once a year but they'll warranty your engine up to like $4,000 if you use their products according to their maintenance schedule. The only thing I worry about with any of these intake valve cleaners is the scoring of the cylinder walls from carbon particles getting trapped between the ring seals and the cylinder walls......

Um is that from the intake cleaner? Those products push all that crud through your exhaust system and can foul up the catalytic converter.

Higher octane gas does not have more additives. Additives will vary between brands of gas, but not octane levels within the same brand. For example, Shell 87, 89, and 93 all have the same amount of additives in the fuel. The difference is the octane rating between the three which can affect engine performance as lower octane is more likely to produce engine knock due to the high compression ratios of these engines. Engine knock, whether you can hear it or not, will cause the engine and computer to compensate for the knock which reduces horse power and fuel economy. So yes you should use higher octane gas when towing but not because it runs cooler or has more additives, but because you get better performance out of your engine since the fuel is less likely to cause engine knock. As Fondupot pointed out, per Black Bear Performance, they detect engine knock on 87 in these trucks and reccomend a minimum of 89 on even a stock tuning because of the high compression ratio of these engines. Check out Black Bear's FAQ's here: http://www.blackbearperformance.com/faqs.asp Getting back to additives, they will vary between brands. A top tier brand like Shell will have more cleaning additives than a non top tier brand like say Sunoco. For more info on Top Tier gas go here: http://www.toptiergas.com/

Ditto on all of this. 89 from Shell (top tier gas) for me.

I only mention this because this idiot (talking about myself) did this the other day. My AC out of the driver vents felt warmer than usual and I was starting to get upset until I looked at the passenger side temperature and it was on 85! I hit the sync button and everything immediately started cooling off like normal. Have you checked this? I know it seems stupid but, stupid guy right here haha

Ok that's good. I'm just having some recurring Dodge nightmares haha

This is not good news. I had a Dodge Dakota with a clogged condensate drain. Blowing out the drain hose would help temporarily but it would always clog back up and backflow into the cab of the truck and end up short circuiting the air bag system. I know of a few other Dodge and Jeep vehicles with the same exact problem so it was pretty common with Chrysler. I hope this isn't the beginning of many years of headaches with the HVAC condensate drain.....

Nope that's how it's supposed to operate apparently. No one here on the forum has it resolved yet as far as I can tell.

I have this noise too. Where do you get this long nozzle stick? Are you talking about compressed air in a can? Like the stuff to dust your computer with?

I wonder if you can spray the rust spots with Iron X to remove it and save the hastle of using a wire brush to get rid of it: http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE Then just spray the 3M rubberized coating over these areas after washing the Ironx X off. I used Iron X to get rid of rail dust on the body of my truck but I also sprayed it on a rust spot on a steel door on my house and it removed all of the rust from that spot. EDIT: The product description does say: Iron X should not be used on chrome, bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs So I dunno.......

They never mentioned it at all. Awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice. I took my truck to the dealer today for my 3rd free oil change/tire rotation. I'm waiting to see what they say about my catch can. Hopefully not a word.

Check out the BG induction service. It's a little pricier and a more involved process than just spraying some seafoam in your engine but it's supposed to be the real deal. They market the service specifically for direct injection engines. HOWEVER, there is some debate out there as to weather any of these products are safe for the engine. It has been discussed through various online outlets and sources that the valve deposits these cleaning agents remove can get trapped between your ring seals and cylinder walls and that can cause the cylinder walls to get scored up thereby creating more of a problem for oil blow by/consumption. Rx specifically mentioned this in one of their install videos and to me over the phone. Even after I already had bought and installed their catch can (so no more product to sell to me from their standpoint) they advised against doing this repeatedly to the engine. They did say if I wanted to do one initial cleaning that would probably be ok but not to do it a lot. Conversely, BG does market their cleaning products as a regular maintenance item and they will warranty your engine if you use their products per their maintenance plan (once every 15,000 miles or something to that effect). So for me the jury is still out on what I want to do. I plan to talk to my mechanic some more about it and see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^agreed I wouldn't use measurements between any driveline components and the body of the truck as a basis for things being lined up properly. Your driveline could be perfect and your bed could still be off kilter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would go to the top of the throttle body on the 6.2. On the 5.3, it should go to the side of the engine halfway down the intake manifold. The port below the throttle body goes to the inlet port of all catch cans.