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So after some digging I found the build thread section. What we have here is my 2014 Crew Cab Z71 4WD short bed queen. Bought a few years back as my daily work truck to put my weekend warrior back in the garage. When I first snagged her she was lifted on 34s and by the first drive home I knew the tranny was blown. Worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from and had a 100k warranty remain installed where they paid for half of T&M. Factory crap struts with spacers front to rear came on her for a "lift". Within a few months I installed ICON Stage 1 kit to give her that quality ride effect. Love me some ICON, ride was supple on and off the road with this kit. When I decided to let go of the weekend warrior to fund the wife's new ride and changed industry's I got the itch to go back to my roots and slam her. I know I wanted to follow the same concept I did with my last mini must haves. Suspension must haves: Adjustable Coil Overs up front Adjustable emulsions in the rear (I went back and forth for months if this was needed on a full-size before realizing it was a MUST HAVE) Control arms up front due to 4wd and limited spindle offerings Flip in the rear 22x10 that sat flush if not almost flush and this go around the wheel set had to be SQUARE After quite a bit of research I came up with the following mods, mind you not all at once Mod weekend 1: IHC 4/6 drop kit Front and Rear, dialed (according to my comparison from ground-to-fender measure on a 19' Z71) she sits right at 4/6 and within spec on alignment. IHC 4" drop arms (Front) Belltech 2-Way Adjustable Coilovers (Front) IHC Axle Flip kit (Rear) IHC 1" lowering shackle (Rear) IHC drop shocks (Rear) Wheels and Tires 22x10 square ET +0 Cosmis racing XT-206R (finish chips easily but they also clean up easily) Lionhart 285/40/22 (Surprisingly nice ply and quieter than anticipated) After the initial mod weekend truck sat with a Carolina Squat , the rear shocks had no ass in them and my measured adjustment on the coil overs were perfect however I did install per IHC instructions with the 1/2" spacers raising the front 1". Trucks rear was as soft as a yellow belly teenager, I would bottom out axle to frame and pumpkin to bed every where I went. This was not my experience on my first go around on a full-size (96' extended cab bow-tie w/ 2/4). I was able to load that rear end up with dirt bikes and motors all day long without issue, guess there was a leaf design change over a span of 18 years . After a week of banging down the freeway I pulled the trigger on IHC helper bag kit and QA-1 shocks within spec of the drop shocks from IHC (eye-to-eye extended and fully compressed). I made the mistake of purchasing Belltech adjustable drop shocks, these only work for 4" rear drops to my dismay . I also noticed that the drop shackle in the OEM hanger configuration was rubbing at ride height, so purchased the shackle flip kit from IHC as well. Mod weekend 2: IHC Shackle Flip Kit (allows for cleaner travel of suspension, simply shoving lowering shackle onto system was rubbing frame) IHC 1" drop shackles IHC Firestone helper bag kit (Rear) QA1 2-way adjustable emulsion shocks (Rear) Designed and Machined custom bushings to accept the OEM bolts (Inventor and Xometry FTW) Once I installed QA1's, shackle flip, helper bags, and removed and readjusted coil overs I got her squatted on all 4 corners EQUALLY. I rub in front occasionally on full lock to drivers only and over excessive dips in road mostly in front. I have bumped coil over adjustment up 2 clicks from factory on drivers and 1 on passenger. I have compression up 2 clicks from middle and run helper bags with 8-10lbs in them when bed is not loaded up. Rarely do I ever bottom out these days, usually if I have the truck loaded up with people to hit work lunch. Sound System: I upgraded the sound system at some point in time between ICON's and slamming. This has been an ongoing mod debacle on my end. Started by building a steel rack behind passenger seat to mount three Memphis amps. I was using 3 Memphis amps I had from my old truck build, however the front amp decided to start sending unwarranted signals to the speakers and the rear amp after about 3 years of sitting and 6 months of using decided to finally die after an overall 10 year party in 3 different rides. None the less the two AB amps were replaced with new Memphis hardware while the class D (knock on wood) keeps trucking along. Doors received focal 3-Ways up front and 2-ways in the rear. Class D memphis runs a sundown 10 under the passenger ina semi-custom box, added some height to the magnet area to accept the depth of the sundown 10 that runs on 1ohm. Memphis feeds it something like 800 watts rms @ 1ohm. Oldy but faithful Pioneer double din is running the show after trying 2 other setups to use the stock head unit. I initially tried pioneers CAN module but making fine tune adjustments or simply turning off the sub for when the kiddo is in the truck was a painful operation. Switched to an AXXES CAN setup, access to this was great, all the adjustments were perfectly accessible, however my trucks CAN did not like this system, I was getting all sorts of weird can signals and issues throughout the truck that I finally ripped that out and sent it back after trying two different AXXES units. Exterior: 2nd year into ownership finally replaced the factory grill with the OEM paint matched honeycomb and updated the fogs and headlights with RIGIDs and paint matched 14-15 style headlights. Also threw in TRLS HID bulbs while I was at it and TRLS rear assembly's as well. I am an avid mountain biker so finding an easier way to load up the bikes was a must, when the pand hit I pulled the trigger on the RIDE88 truck bed system as they were doing a 25% off on preorders. Best investment for a biker ever, so easy to load and lock the bikes up, only painful when I have to fully utilize the bed. Performance: Stock 5.3, that is mostly clapped out, so I have not gone ham under the hood. Initial purchase was an air raid intake using the stock box as most factory units pull outside air vs "cold air" tech. So installed the AirRaid intake tube that ditches the sound deadening box and did a drop in oil filter. After much debate, about a years worth, I pulled the trigger on the MBRP side exit exhaust. I knew from the day I started the truck with it on that I absolutely HATED it but for some silly reason I left it on. Now I am in search of an OEM exhaust so I can throw this junk away and do an electric dump out later on down the road. Eventually I will be swapping the 5.3 out for a LS1 or LS3 depending on what comes available next fall (waiting for prices to drop) and I will replace or rebuild the trans and will 100% replace the transfercase (culprit to my Chevy shakes when auto mode engaged) but first I need to finish my latest weekend warrior so I have a new daily while this ol'gurl is down. More to come

I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ (very high milage - 219,000) Runs great and still has some power left under the hood. For the most part, it is in great shape. It have a strange noise when acceleration or getting up to about 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It only does it under load, so it is hard to find where the noise is coming from. In the attached video, it takes place at 12-18s and then again at 40-46s. It is hard to hear because of the wind noise, but I can't figure out how to isolate the noise any better. If anyone has any ideas, I would sure appreciate the input. The water pump was just replaced, and so was the alternator, along with the tensioner pulley. I admit my limited knowledge under the hood, but I am willing to learn and fix it, if I can. https://youtu.be/PctCm6Ai09Y

So I'm looking at lowering my LT Z71, at least 3 inches. So far the only complete kit I've found is the Belltech Performance Handling kit. Any insight on this kit? I hear it may cause problems lowering a 4wd this much. Things like pushing the knuckle too far back in the wheel well, causing alignment/fitment issues. Has anyone found an alternative to this kit? I'm not against Belltech, I just like to have more than one option when I'm making a large purchase. My truck currently has a 2 1/2 inch leveling kit and 315/45R20's. I don't tow anything larger than a small tent trailer or have anything bigger than dirt bikes in the back. I never see anything harsher than a gravel road, however I am from somewhat northern Canada which is why I went with the Z71. https://www.belltech.com/products/belltech/lowering/complete-lowering-kits/belltech-performance-handling-kit-14-18-1-2-ton-silverado-sierra-all-cabs-short-bed-987hk.html

My new Silverado was stuck in 4WD. The dealer found a Chevrolet "Field Action" for the vehicle that indicated the transfer case shift control module required reprogramming. The "Service 4WD" message appeared on the driver info screen. Some of the vibration issues being reported could be that the truck is stuck in 4WD - that causes steering wheel vibration at highway speeds. In my case, the control knob was in 2W HI and there was NO indicator light on the knob. The service 4WD did not come on initially.

So I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 4wd, it has a 7-9 inch FTS lift kit on it now. I was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to take the lift off and put my truck back to stock height? I just don't want the lift on it anymore I'm tired of it.

So i'm having this issue where i'm trying to find air bags for the rear but everything I am finding is mounted to the axle. Well the readylift kit lift blocks for the rear has a tang welded to the block to relocate the bumper stop. Has anyone cut this off to make the bags fit? I asked readylift and obviously they don't recommend that, but also cant tell me what bags work with their product. Has anyone done anything to work around this?

I am wondering what is the biggest size tire I can fit on the stock 18" rim that came with my truck. I currently have Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac tires 265/65r18 on my truck that came stock. Is there a possibility of squeezing a 275 under it with the same aspect ratio without having to level out the front? Any help is appreciated.

Welcome to my build! Started with a 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4wd 5.3L, which I bought with 9k miles on her in August of 2020. Got a crazy good deal on it, justified me driving to Georgia from Houston to pick it up. It even came with the Ranch Hand front bumper on it already, other than that she was stock. Little bit of background on my past trucks, I've been fortunate to own quite a few: 07 JK Wrangler, 08 Silverado 1500 LT Z71, 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71, 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT w/ 6.2L, 2016 Denali 2500 Duramax, 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, and finally my 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71. I also have my 2015 ZL1 Camaro for a little bit of fun on the side, my wife has gone off to German side and is rocking her Porsche Cayenne. So here's the current list of mods: 4" Zone Lift kit w/ Fox rear shocks 35x11.50's Nitto Terra Grapplers on stock 20's Front and back Ranch Hand bumpers Hooker Blackheart Cat-back exhaust utilizing factory dual tips K&N Series 63 cold air intake Rough Country Automatic drop down steps Camlocker Tool box Front windows tinted to match back factory tint Front windshield tint strip Chevy All-Weather floor liners Stubby antenna Just went on a shopping spree of sorts and this is what I've got on order: Boost auto parts auto fog mod Putco Blade LED Tailgate Light Bar w/ Putco wiring harness All LED bulbs; replacing turn signals, license plate lights, and reverse lights. And the GRAND finale, King 2.5 PRS coilovers The list of things to come in the near future: High Country cluster from White Audio and Media, had their Tahoe cluster in my 2017 and it was fantastic! Waiting to order the rear King Resi PRS shocks until my checkbook bounces back a little bit. Lol Going to be putting on several LED light bars and maybe a pod or two, going to do my best to blend them into the Ranch Hands and make them as non conspicuous as possible. I'm strongly considering doing a Dyno tune w/ Kooks long tubes as well. Going to be doing ceramic tint all the way around. Limo on back windows and back glass, 15% on front windows, and 35% on the front windshield. I've got a drop in plastic bed liner that drives me crazy, so I'll more than likely go ahead and get the bed sprayed. Things I'm considering: Looking into changing up the rims and trying to clear 37's when the time comes for new tires. Blacking out the badges? Still not sold on this one... Turbo or a supercharger kit? This one would be way down the line though. Anything else that catches my attention, let me know if you can come up with anything! Here is the truck from stock:

I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd with the 4L60-e 4 speed transmission. Currently I have no speedometer and despite the transmission shifting very well, it skips second gear consistently (no intermittent functioning). This is the ONLY gear that it has issues with (reverse and the rest of the gears are good). Here is the story... I bought this truck being told the transmission was shot. Initially it would not shift past 1st and also had a functioning reverse. I had the tranny swapped with an equivalent from a suburban. It improved slightly but still there is no speedometer or second gear. NO ENGINE CODES have come up throughout this entire time including prior to tranny being swapped (this includes no ABS lights). Here are the different problems I have found on the internet that I have tried to rule out: VSS- A mechanic with a good computer states that all 3 Vehicle Speed Sensors read correct speeds in real time on the road Ignition switch- Already changed Fuses/relays- All appear to be intact and functioning Dash cluster- broken connections fixed restoring all function besides speedometer Transmission treatment- Lucas treatment put in in case this could be a sticky solenoid to no avail Grounds- All appear to be in excellent condition and no frayed wires visible Low Voltage- New battery in place Help me out! What I can see as being my next options are either changing out the ECU or the wiring harness, neither of which I am desiring to do. Any recommendations from your experience that I may have missed in my internet reading?

Selling my Eibach Pro Truck Lift Kit with coils, struts and shocks. Unopened direct from manufacturer with warranty. I am hoping for $400 but I am willing to negotiate a little. Located in Houston TX. PM for more info and Ebay listing.

I purchased my first 4WD truck in February (2020 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD 6.2L 2 speed Transfer Case). I wasn't really in the market for a 4WD model, but had to choose one to get the options I did want. So I am unfamiliar with the proper use of 4WD. Specifically: 1) When just driving around town and not towing anything, should I leave the transfer case setting set to 2WD or 'Auto?' 2) The manual recommends not using a automatic carwash without giving a reason. Is there a real 'danger' in using one leaving aside the need to choose one that can handle the size of the truck (I've read the posts about leaks, but that is a different issue for me)? 3) My research suggests that if I were to have the truck towed or pulled through a carwash by rollers behind the front wheels that I should put both the transmission and transfer case in neutral. Is that correct? Anything else I should do (besides turn off the auto windshield wipers setting and keep my foot off the brake)? I did search this forum (and the Internet) trying to find the the answers to these questions, so if I missed something, please forward a link. TIA

I’ve searched previous forums and haven’t found the feedback I’m looking for, although this is a common topic. So bear with me. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500... 5.3L.... 4l60e... 4WD... NP246 TC.... 3.73 gear ratio... 160k miles. The symptoms I’m having are namely: Large clunk when shifting into reverse. A less noticeable, but still at times, a clunk when shifting into Drive. Harsh down shifts when coming to a stop from cruising speeds. Today, I put the truck on 4 jack stands so I could get a better idea of what is going on. After being under the truck during shifts between Park Drive and Reverse , it seems to me the “clanking” is originating from the Transfer Case. And mainly from the output shaft that drives the front diff. When the truck is turned off and in park, I can manually with my hands rotate the front drive shaft back and forth and replicate the same (ish) banging noise I hear when making those shifts between P D and R. The noise is consistent whether the truck is in 2WD, 4 HI, or 4LO. I guess my question in general is what testing can I do to further look into this and figure out the root cause? Would these symptoms typically originate from the tcase? My long term plan is hopefully to replace both the Transfer case and front diff with either low mile junk yard OR remanufactured units. after replacing those things, assuming a good install, do you believe the “clanking” will be fixed? In general, the truck is shifting through gears like dog ******. But I love her and want to renew it over time.