Jump to content

Which Factory Wheel Looks Better?

rebelman06

  

58 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

rebelman06 Enthusiast

rebelman06

Posted
Posted

1) My current rims:

DSCN0756.jpg

 

2 Wheels priced so low that I almost can't pass them up:

chevy_rims1.jpg

 

If I bought the new ones I would save up and put some 285/70/17 BFG A/T's on there so I can have some off road fun. My BFG Long Trail TA's are nice and have good grip, but they are no fun in sand and mud. Please let me know what you think. I have seen pictures of all 4 wheels and center caps and they look good.

Snow White Enthusiast

Snow White

Posted
Posted

just wait till those 8 hole chromed steel wheels start to rust, you'll love them then.... i had some keystone chrome wheels decades ago on an s10.... what a nightmare.... plus the 8 hole look borderline stupid in my opinion.... i'd rather have the nascar looking ones that those stupid toyotas run out of waltrips garage

brandon_guzzo Enthusiast

brandon_guzzo

Posted
Posted
just wait till those 8 hole chromed steel wheels start to rust, you'll love them then.... i had some keystone chrome wheels decades ago on an s10.... what a nightmare.... plus the 8 hole look borderline stupid in my opinion.... i'd rather have the nascar looking ones that those stupid toyotas run out of waltrips garage

 

 

First of all i like the firsts ones on you truck and to correct butzers09 silverado i have had the chrome ones on my truck for almost 10 years now and have no rust on them whatsoever.

C. Charles Hahn Senior Enthusiast

C. Charles Hahn

Posted
Posted
just wait till those 8 hole chromed steel wheels start to rust, you'll love them then.... i had some keystone chrome wheels decades ago on an s10.... what a nightmare.... plus the 8 hole look borderline stupid in my opinion.... i'd rather have the nascar looking ones that those stupid toyotas run out of waltrips garage

 

 

First of all i like the firsts ones on you truck and to correct butzers09 silverado i have had the chrome ones on my truck for almost 10 years now and have no rust on them whatsoever.

 

 

That's because the "Chrome" is actually plastic. If you were to take the plastic covers off though (I think they're glued on) it's just a standard steel wheel underneath, which very well might have some rust.

dogzapper Enthusiast

dogzapper

Posted
Posted

Another vote for Five Star. It's really a classic wheel.

 

The only cool thing about the work truck one is that it kinda looks like the incredible aluminum (made in Hungry) forged wheel that is issued with the 2500HDs. The forged aluminum one is fantastic, the chromed plastic steel wheel just plain sucks, especially when road de-icer gets on it and eats away the finish.

 

Steve

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted
I think the people have spoken lol. I guess I am going to keep on looking or just stick with my stockers.

 

 

 

 

Good Idea :shakehead:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...