Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

At what mileage was your first brake change? I am going on 41,000 miles on 08 Silverado, still on "OG" will soon need to be changed, stillgoing strong though.

Posted

Most of our work trucks go close to 100k before changing. My '04 is at 95k now and in no need of change

Posted

My 03 would eat rear pads but the fronts wore like iron. I ended up changing them when I hit like 70k miles because I had warped rotors and they were looking pretty rough so I didn't bother with putting them on the lathe. Even then the fronts still had plenty of material left, I just wanted new pads to go with the new rotors. No idea on the new truck yet- with 2k or so miles I hope it's a ways off still! :jester:

Posted
Most of our work trucks go close to 100k before changing. My '04 is at 95k now and in no need of change

 

 

Well Yeah...I know WHEN to change brakes, was just curious what people have gotten on theirs before they had to change them.

Posted

Front Pads at 65,000 miles....still have original rears at 71,000 miles

Posted

My brakes last awhile on both my trucks. The older one has a snowplow and now a dump insert. The HD can tow a landscape trailer on occassion. I'll see if that makes a difference on brake life. My wife's trailblazer has had brakes done because of rear calipers seizing or sticking. plowking

Posted

I've got 180,000 on mine looked at them at 100,000 and they looked brand new. Put new tires on at 150,000 tire guy asked me if I wanted him to check them I said go ahead and let me know what they look like. He called and said no need they look about 50 % so I said leave them alone. I will keep them till the truck dies. :jester:

Posted

it ALL depends on how you drive. i usually go through front pads pads every 30,000 to 40,000 miles and rears usually go for about the same. rotors rarely last over 90k for me. where i live its extremely hilly and windy on top of it all.

Posted

crap I was wondering about the same thing too!!! my '07 SILVERADO LT1 is at 54k now and I wanted to hear about other truck owners and see if my brakes where lasting just what they are supposed to last, thank you for this thread!!!

Posted

I had to replace the rears on mine at 91k because of a stuck slide pin. That set lasted 13k. Never going to buy wagoners again. Still on the original fronts at 105k. Got about 40% pad left and I'm not the easiest on brakes.

Posted

damn how the *uck are you guys making your pads last that long? i just put on a set a federal front and rear pads about 5,000 miles ago so hopefully they hold up

Posted
damn how the *uck are you guys making your pads last that long? i just put on a set a federal front and rear pads about 5,000 miles ago so hopefully they hold up

 

For the pads I bought OE parts. They're more expensive than the stuff Autozone and the rest sell but they lasted, were quiet and didn't make dust.

Posted

GM breaks on the new trucks are hit and miss. That said, mine are a HUGE miss.

 

19k - both front and rear gone!

37k - Front gone

44k - front and rear gone

 

Notice a trend here. I don't tow anything, city/hwy driving all on flat even surfaces. And they wear even, a complete mistory. My 02, I think I replaced the fronts twice and the rears once, she had 120k when I traded her in.

Posted
At what mileage was your first brake change? I am going on 41,000 miles on 08 Silverado, still on "OG" will soon need to be changed, stillgoing strong though.

 

Just curious, what does OG mean?

 

I usually check my pads every time I rotate my tires just to see where I am at on pad life. I have 65K plus miles on mine and still going strong.

Posted
At what mileage was your first brake change? I am going on 41,000 miles on 08 Silverado, still on "OG" will soon need to be changed, stillgoing strong though.

 

Just curious, what does OG mean?

 

I usually check my pads every time I rotate my tires just to see where I am at on pad life. I have 65K plus miles on mine and still going strong.

 

 

 

"OG" ORIGINAL...just a fancy shortened version:)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...