Jump to content

Horn Keeps Going Off When Trying To Hook Battery Back Up


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys- I was just out of the country for about 2 weeks. While out, I had the battery in my truck un-hooked so that I could reset the computer. Never done it since I owned it and I figured it wouldn't hurt anything. I went to hook it up this morning and as soon as I touch the negative cable to the battery, the horn starts going off like the theft thing is activated. How can I avoid this from happening? It's very loud because the truck is sitting in underground parking and I don't want to bother the neighbors. Maybe leave the key in the ignition while doing it? Just looking for some ideas.

 

Thanks for the help!

Jeff

Posted

Nothing in the factory content theft system should be causing this. The only time that I've ever had this happen to me was on a vehicle with an aftermarket alarm system installed.

Posted

How bout popping out the fuse for the horn?

 

:)

 

 

also. are both cables unhooked? If so u always want to hook up the positive first , and or disconnect negative first.

 

This way the computer wont be trying to power off the negative current.

Posted

Have you tried hooking the cables up, then trying to stop the horn with the panic button on your FOB or putting the key into the ignition? Are your doors shut when you hook up the battery?

Posted

my horn goes off when ever I disco and reco the battery on my 2010, my Chrysler did it, my Impala did it, my Caddy does it, IF the any of the doors are open when you reco the battery..

 

 

pretty common as I have seen for any alarm system, OEM or otherwise.

 

 

connect the battery and press the unlock on your fob.. if you don't have a fob, then remove the horn fuse or relay as suggested..

Posted

I just turn the key to "ON" before I hook the battery up. It disables the alarm. The alarm is from your hood being open.

Posted

My 2008 does this if the battery was disconnected, and it was locked with the fob (aka in "theft mode").

 

Perfectly normal. Stuff cotton in your ears, connect the negative terminal, and hit the unlock button on the fob. :rolleyes:

Posted

I put the key in and turned it to on. It only beeped once and then was good. Thanks guys!! :-)

Posted

I went out, after work last night, and tried this on my neighbor's '05 and my '11 and NEITHER of them set the ctd alarm off when reconnecting the battery cables. Both trucks were locked with the key fob putting them both into active ctd status. Must be a different combination you guys are using and yes, I found this interesting enough to try for myself. Gave me a chance to drink a beer with the neighbor anyway. :rolleyes:

Posted
also. are both cables unhooked? If so u always want to hook up the positive first , and or disconnect negative first.

This way the computer wont be trying to power off the negative current.

 

The reason you disconnect negative first and connect it last is simply so you can't short the positive cable to ground with your wrench accidentally. Nothing at all to do with the computer. All electrical devices need a complete (otherwise known as a closed circuit) circuit to operate. Disconnecting either of the battery cables opens the circuit.

Posted
I went out, after work last night, and tried this on my neighbor's '05 and my '11 and NEITHER of them set the ctd alarm off when reconnecting the battery cables. Both trucks were locked with the key fob putting them both into active ctd status. Must be a different combination you guys are using and yes, I found this interesting enough to try for myself. Gave me a chance to drink a beer with the neighbor anyway. :rolleyes:

 

Odd. I wonder if there is a difference between the Sierra and Silverado?

Posted

I have a feeling it was going off because when I unhooked the battery I had all doors locked. Of course I had to pop the hood to hook the battery back up, so I had to unlock the door with the key and I wonder if it noticed that when hooking the battery up? Anyways, leaving the key in took care of it. Thanks again!

  • 9 months later...
Posted

I've had the same problem yesterday. I was eating a sandwich with the truck running and all of a sudden my horn goes off big time. I turned the vehicle off, the horn stopped for a second and than went off again. I finally had to open the hood, and undo the positive cable connection. I than took fuse #30 out and when I hooked up again, no horn (of course).

I decided to come on home and on the way my cruise control did not work, so I just kept on coming home. About half way and approximately every three miles, my on-star came on momentarily, with "please hang up and call again" through the speakers and did this about 4 times. At the end, it always thanked me. I have an appointment tomorrow morning with Allen Samuels Chevrolet in Corpus Christi, I shall come back and give you the results. I have a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado, Texas Edition with 68,000 miles. I also have an extended warranty hope that helps, for sure(?).

Posted
I went out, after work last night, and tried this on my neighbor's '05 and my '11 and NEITHER of them set the ctd alarm off when reconnecting the battery cables. Both trucks were locked with the key fob putting them both into active ctd status. Must be a different combination you guys are using and yes, I found this interesting enough to try for myself. Gave me a chance to drink a beer with the neighbor anyway. :rolleyes:

 

Odd. I wonder if there is a difference between the Sierra and Silverado?

 

No difference.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...