Jump to content

OGM-1 Weirdness? Try reinstalling firmware...

wottenad

By wottenad
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

clementsbc Enthusiast

clementsbc

Posted
Posted

Got mine yesterday and installed all but the back-up camera( to cold here in MA.)...install went great but had some-weirdness....Walt helped

with a quick email on the first problem...this morning the vol knob was backwards and button mapping was messed up.... then did the new firmware install..worked fine after that (2011 Silverado 4x4 Crew LT non-bose)

My only problem is that the chimes are very low..and were before the update as well...any hints?

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
redjewel2ss Enthusiast

redjewel2ss

Posted
Posted

you can adjust the volume of the chimes using your DIC buttons and odometer screen. forgot the specifics to it, but not hard to figure out.

430HP70 Enthusiast

430HP70

Posted
Posted

i wasnt switching between xm and fm, but noticed that xm required a higher volume than before. i also had to turn down the nav voice because it was too loud with the xm.

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

I don't think you can change chime volume on 2011s. I know I can't. Mine is quiet as well but I don't really mind.

clementsbc Enthusiast

clementsbc

Posted
Posted

Thanks Texas...i went into the DIC and changed it to "loud"....its a bit better but not like it was with factory radio

ToeJamm Enthusiast

ToeJamm

Posted
Posted

i wasnt switching between xm and fm, but noticed that xm required a higher volume than before. i also had to turn down the nav voice because it was too loud with the xm.

 

 

 

I have this same issue. If i'm listening to FM, Ipod or DVD with NAV running, the NAV voice blends in. When I'm on XM, when the NAV voice comes in it's way to loud that it distorts because the volume is cranked up to around 45. The normal volume setting for everything is around 18. With XM its around 45

redjewel2ss Enthusiast

redjewel2ss

Posted
Posted

I don't think you can change chime volume on 2011s. I know I can't. Mine is quiet as well but I don't really mind.

 

 

sucker :P

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

I don't think you can change chime volume on 2011s. I know I can't. Mine is quiet as well but I don't really mind.

 

 

sucker :P

 

 

 

One of the other posters with a 2011 said he could so now when I get back to NH I'll have to check again. I don't remember seeing that as an option but the last time I went into that DIC menu was the night I got the truck.

woodson16 New Member

woodson16

Posted
Posted

I have the weird button and volume control issue. Trying to update the firmware but once I select YES to update all I get an error that there is a "bad package". I have tried downloading the zip file again but same issue. Anyone else run into this? Unfortunately it is Saturday so I can't call Audiovox customer service...

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

You might of done the same thing I did-

 

After un-zipping the file, you don't just copy the new folder to the SD card, you open the folder and copy it's contents to the SD card.

 

Good luck!

Handball317 Enthusiast

Handball317

Posted
Posted

i wasnt switching between xm and fm, but noticed that xm required a higher volume than before. i also had to turn down the nav voice because it was too loud with the xm.

 

 

 

I have this same issue. If i'm listening to FM, Ipod or DVD with NAV running, the NAV voice blends in. When I'm on XM, when the NAV voice comes in it's way to loud that it distorts because the volume is cranked up to around 45. The normal volume setting for everything is around 18. With XM its around 45

 

 

Yeah I've had the Nav voice "blend in" with the iPod too. Never with the radio. It doesn't happen all the time either, it seems random. I've also had it mute the music then the Nav voice comes in quiet then loud. Also random. When the Nav voice is talking turn down the volume, you have to be quick but this will set the volume when the Nav is talking It's does this on the newest firmware also.

430HP70 Enthusiast

430HP70

Posted
Posted

true, but you cant set it for different volumes while using xm or fm. the issue is the voice is fine while using fm, but when using xm you must turn the volume up so the music is at the same level and that makes the nav voice REALLY loud.

  • 1 month later...
tazerbro Enthusiast

tazerbro

Posted
Posted

I'm also having this issue. Noticed not more than 10 minutes after completing the install of mine yesterday. XM volume is no where NEAR as loud as the radio or cd sources. Switching between sources with that kind of volume fluctuation = no good. The stock radio did a good job of this. In fact, the weird thing? I thought XM on the stock radio sounded better than any other source! I would imagine it probably has something to do with the aftermarket unit interfacing with the factory XM. Other than me tinkering and getting to understand this thing in and out ...I love it :)

  • 4 months later...
jessiethemexi New Member

jessiethemexi

Posted
Posted

I just downloaded the new firmware to my 2012 Chevy 1500 and after the firmware upload was complete I lost my XM radio and Navigation. The navigation is asking me for an activation code. Has anyone ran into these issues after trying to install the latest firmware update? firmware update OGM1_06062012.ZIP

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...