Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Sitting at the shop waiting to get my pipes dumped. Gonna keep true dual straights just dumped over the rear axle. Hopefully this guy makes em look good....

 

Sent from my SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

 

Edited by zach1990
Posted

I finally get my 300 amp alternator back

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Posted

Finally got around to painting my frame today. Made the body lift look much better IMO. Also had some paint and clear left so I pulled my lower valance and sprayed it to.

uta2y6eb.jpg

pu9y8ate.jpg

tymy4ema.jpg

 

Sent from my SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

Installed chrome door handles one of the bolts for the passenger side handle is stuck couldn't get it to tighten all the way thus the handle is loose on one side. :angry:

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Posted

My rear brake drums were causing the brake pedal to pulsate and the rear of the truck to shake. After a trip to Napa and about 30 minutes of DIY, I now have new rear drums. I took it for a test drive and the issues are gone.

Posted

My rear brake drums were causing the brake pedal to pulsate and the rear of the truck to shake. After a trip to Napa and about 30 minutes of DIY, I now have new rear drums. I took it for a test drive and the issues are gone.

 

No issues getting the old ones off? May have to do mine soon.

Posted (edited)

I had some drums stick awhile back I had to hit them really hard with a ball peen hammer on each side more than a couple times. It surprised me because usually its one or two light hits.

 

Sent from my Nokia 5190 using Tapatalk 2

 

Edited by tanked_darren
Posted

Look more more finished off Zach.

Posted

It's more like what I did yesterday but... :shakehead:...a light pole jumped out and bit my truck.

 

Right at the trailing edge of the front door and the leading edge of the rear door on the passenger side. I haven't got a pic of it yet. It doesn't look too horrifying but boy do I feel dumb. I was pulling into a fast food place with the wife and their parking lot was full on one side so I pulled around to the other and it was all end to end parking so I attempted to parallel park in one of the spots. I miss judged how close I was getting to the concrete base of the pole, plus paying too much attention to my rear bumper location...BAM, screech, scrape, and me saying a few choice phrases. Parallel parking should be banned... :M16: Not going to bother getting it professionally fixed, just sand it down and it get it covered so it doesn't rust. I guess I just gave my truck some character.

 

Morale of this story: Don't take your wife to lunch! :cheers:

Posted

Not to rub it in but somehow I parallel park like a pro not sure why but I always get it perfect. My driving instructor made me try it my first time between two 50s style hot rods boy was I mad at him but I did great.. Maybe I should be a valet..

 

 

Sent from your truck via Tapatalk

Posted

Not to rub it in but somehow I parallel park like a pro not sure why but I always get it perfect. My driving instructor made me try it my first time between two 50s style hot rods boy was I mad at him but I did great.. Maybe I should be a valet..

 

 

Sent from your truck via Tapatalk

 

:P

 

Just kidding, I usually can do pretty decent however, I was so worried about hitting something off the back bumper I didn't even notice the base of the light pole sticking out.

Posted

Drove back from the airport in the snow. Took forever. I also need new tires, these ones suck even though there is some meat left on them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...