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Posted

People tend to view the past through rose colored glasses it seems.

Posted (edited)

Speakers and head unit are at home waiting for me.....

 

Hopefully the soldering wont take long.

 

And since I have to cut the factory speaker wires, should I add a female clip connector or solder them to the new speakers? I remember a car I had that had speakers that were soldered(cant remember what, just remember seeing them, I doubt there is a big advantage?

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Done! Everything worked on the first try.

 

Pics coming. Made a youtube vid to show the 900 specific connections I'll upload later

Posted (edited)

Dome on the 8100. Going to do speakers later.

Pic stinks, screen is nasty and flash went bad, using my old phone. But youbget the idea

3cb9c25dd5ca8fea644f3d998f1317f6.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

I put a rear pair of these on today ef8d7e51481531df2db648c829cbe193.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Posted

I put a rear pair of these on today ef8d7e51481531df2db648c829cbe193.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

That's interesting, that's upside down from how they mount on my 2006. How's the ride?
Posted

 

f5ac66b7988597317b910a9a3185b889.jpg I was buisy getting my box ready to come off to replace the cab corners on my old heavy Chevy no sense letting a GOOD truck rot.

Posted (edited)

That's interesting, that's upside down from how they mount on my 2006. How's the ride?

Inverted monotube. I'm used to it on my sports cars. As far as the ride quality, by far better than the factory Ranchos. The ride is smoothed out, body motion control is better, traction has increased and obstacle negotiation has gotten better (tested by climbing the rear of the truck over a curb). Later this week I'll see about load carrying capabilities since I still have more stuff to move from my old warehouse to the new. The ride is firm, but not harsh. By far a more refined damper. The Ranchos felt stiff and harsh unladen and bouncy and uncontrolled loaded down.

Edited by C25A1guy
Posted

Growing up in 60s and 70s I can tell you that by 60 to 100k miles you had a rust bucket with one transmission change, radiator, gas tank, a few brake jobs and tune ups. Your warranty was 12-12. The price was relative to the times, I like them much better now.

 

 

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Our vehicles never had any of those problems, aside from rust. Probably helped that grandpa and dad were both mechanics. We kept rust at bay as long as possible with our used motor oil. On the real old stuff my grandfather would drill the frame and pump it full. I never even pulled an engine in my life until I was in my late 20's, and spun a bearing in a '71 C20 that someone tossed a 305 in to sell (got burned on that one). Never did a transmission either until that same truck (then I sold it like an idiot and lost my ass). Radiators, yeah had a few - but none that the old stop leak couldn't fix, and if not, 10 minutes and you've got a new one installed. Tune ups were just part of driving - still do that today, just less often.

 

When my brother's Duramax shut down 150 miles from home, there wasn't a screwdriver in the world that would make it run again. Had to tow it home. Never EVER had that happen to any old cars.

  • Like 1
Posted

.....

 

I was buisy getting my box ready to come off to replace the cab corners on my old heavy Chevy no sense letting a GOOD truck rot.

I miss my '94 K1500. Sold it with 266k on the clock. Believe it or not, that interior was more quiet than my '07 - I don't mean road-noise-wise, but squeaks and rattle wise! My friggin '07 has sounded like a total POS since the day it rolled off the showroom floor. Guess it's the price you pay for engineering a extended-cab truck without a B pillar ...

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