Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Those are a nice looking tire. How do they ride?

 

I think the sidewall ply in mine are junk or something. They bulge really bad on the inside of the tire, but not the outside. No idea why, never saw it before. I think I'm sold on the ATP's though. Can't beat the price.

Posted

They ride nice IMO. They almost seem smoother than the Goodyears. Maybe it's just me lol. I ride in a lot of bigger trucks and farm equipment though. They do not seem harsh on potholes or joints though. Come down and try em out!

Posted

Haha! I think anything rides better than a Goodyear tire. My 2011 rode a lot better when I took the Goodyear's off, and put Coopers on. Where's down at anyway? I thought you were out in Missouri?

Posted

Haha! I think anything rides better than a Goodyear tire. My 2011 rode a lot better when I took the Goodyear's off, and put Coopers on. Where's down at anyway? I thought you were out in Missouri?

Get the right Goodyears and you wont have a ride issue

Posted

Get the right Goodyears and you wont have a ride issue

Yea I'd imagine the stockers aren't their best tire.
Posted

23k on my Goodyears and they are fine. Might make it to 45k

Posted

I'm in Kansas, hence the ks lol.

Yea I meant Kansas. No idea why I put Missouri...?

 

23k on my Goodyears and they are fine. Might make it to 45k

I'd actually like to have their Duratracs, but man they are expensive. That's the only tire they have that I like.

Posted

The Eagle GT isnt a bad All Season tire. Miles better than the stock LS2 that comes on the 20" wheels.

Posted

The Eagle GT isnt a bad All Season tire. Miles better than the stock LS2 that comes on the 20" wheels.

 

 

I've been a bit skeptical of non-offroad GY truck tires since I got my 2003- It had Wrangler STs and I think ST stood for shitty tire. :lol: No good off road (which was not surprising), bad in the snow and terrifying in the rain.

  • Like 3
Posted

 

 

I've been a bit skeptical of non-offroad GY truck tires since I got my 2003- It had Wrangler STs and I think ST stood for shitty tire. :lol: No good off road (which was not surprising), bad in the snow and terrifying in the rain.

 

My truck came stock with 235/75R16 Wrangler ST's. Scarier than clowns when driving in the rain

  • Like 2
Posted

I like what I've heard about the Duratracs... But they are expensive and I'd be worried about the ride. For the price I'd take the 60k+ Michelins even though they aren't cool

Posted

I love my Duratracs, they are grippy and clean out fast. With my heavy front end it really pulls thru the slop. They are a little loud coming from the stock Michlins but I knew that going in, got a little over 7000 miles on them got to get them rotated this week, everyone has told me that is the most important thing with them. :jester:

Posted

Do yours bulge bad at all running 37psi? My current AT³'s are 10 ply, and they bulge really bad at 40psi. I think it's because their junk, and worn out though.

 

With the instant rebate, and Visa gift card they'll end up being $628.00

 

More plies = gooder. ;)

 

Have 16 ply Michelin steer tires on the Pete(way over kill for what I do) that sag on the sidewalls as much as the 14 ply B/stones that came off of it.

Am guessing the issue you are seeing now is nothing unless they are dry rotting/cracked?

 

Do not tow with my half ton, but will buy Load Range E 10 ply for replacements. If the money is there at the time

it will be a Michelin LTX variant due to past experience with them. But again, will have to see how the pricing is

at the time.

 

& the Kelly tires you were looking & passed on are a wholly owned subsidiary of Goodyear.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,244 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...