Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

dipped them in what? Hot Sauce/Salsa?

Chocolate

 

 

Ryan

Posted

I dropped and filled the trans today. Took a lot longer than I remember it did on my old truck. I did a complete drain and fill over the summer, also switched to dexron 4, just never got around to changing the filter. Not a whole lot of clutch material on the mag or in the filter. Not bad for almost 200k on the trans

Posted

Hopefully buying a set of wheels, and tires from a guy at work. My wheels are corroded really bad, and the tires are shot. $550 for the set with everything. Tires have 80% tread left. They are like the wheels pictured on this truck.

uploadfromtaptalk1412918778987.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1412918778987.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1412918778987.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1412918778987.jpg

Posted

We got those exact wheels with worn out Goodyear's for about $200. I suggest checking tire shops in your area in case they have a set lying around. Your friend is going to make some $$$ with this favor. Just mho.

Posted

Don't remember where I saw it on this site but liked the idea of someone adding the lights in the rear bumper steps so I decided to do something similar. Also decided to add some interior colored floor lighting.

20141010 214538 resized

20141010 214737 resized

20141010 214612 resized

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

efb803dbbfad5c2863f89e66695476ec.jpg

 

Not buying these now because I don't like how they look.

 

Instead Discount Tire has a bunch of rebates on Coopers right now. I really like the ATP, but it doesn't come in 6 ply just a SL or E load range. I've always bought the SL load range before, and never had a problem, but I'd like to step up to a 6ply C range this time. Only problem with that is AT³'s are the only ones in C, and they cost more than the load range E ATP. Load range E is way to overkill for me, but the cheaper cost is pulling me in.

 

I don't really want to spend $700 on tires that will probably dry rot before the tread is shot. Decisions decisions...

Edited by Daryl Z71
Posted

Instead Discount Tire has a bunch of rebates on Coopers right now. I really like the ATP, but it doesn't come in 6 ply just a SL or E load range. I've always bought the SL load range before, and never had a problem, but I'd like to step up to a 6ply C range this time. Only problem with that is AT³'s are the only ones in C, and they cost more than the load range E ATP. Load range E is way to overkill for me, but the cheaper cost is pulling me in.

 

I don't really want to spend $700 on tires that will probably dry rot before the tread is shot. Decisions decisions...

Go ahead and get a man's tire. 15k on my ATP's and no flats yet. Had 5 flats on one tire with the old goodyears.

 

I tow my 20 foot jonboat (maybe 500 lbs total, and I can pick up the tongue), and rarely anything else. The 10 ply tires corner better and are a lot tougher. I run about 37 front and 33 rear to get the right contact. Plus if you go off road you can actually air them down. I put a little extra air in the back if I'm hauling much. Most people around where I'm from wouldn't even consider running anything less than a 10 ply tire.

 

How much can you get the ATP's for? I payed $185 I think. The dry traction isn't the best and they've gotten louder but I still would buy them again at that price.

Posted

Go ahead and get a man's tire. 15k on my ATP's and no flats yet. Had 5 flats on one tire with the old goodyears.

 

I tow my 20 foot jonboat (maybe 500 lbs total, and I can pick up the tongue), and rarely anything else. The 10 ply tires corner better and are a lot tougher. I run about 37 front and 33 rear to get the right contact. Plus if you go off road you can actually air them down. I put a little extra air in the back if I'm hauling much. Most people around where I'm from wouldn't even consider running anything less than a 10 ply tire.

 

How much can you get the ATP's for? I payed $185 I think. The dry traction isn't the best and they've gotten louder but I still would buy them again at that price.

Do yours bulge bad at all running 37psi? My current AT³'s are 10 ply, and they bulge really bad at 40psi. I think it's because their junk, and worn out though.

 

With the instant rebate, and Visa gift card they'll end up being $628.00

Posted (edited)

37 in the front:

2D2CD78D-1A1F-4D41-825F-05891B7ABDC6_zps

33 in the back:

4347A184-6464-46D7-ADB8-03353BEA6153_zps

I don't pay much attention to the way the sidewalls look. I just go off of the "chalk test". If I drive somewhere and I can see there is still gravel dust on part of the tread I let out air. And these pressures seem to give good contact on my pickup.

 

I found some dirty dirt roads this weekend.

Edited by kstruckcountry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,253 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...