Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First impression driving a decent distance with the balancing beads is good. While the tires seemed really smooth without any balancing, they're even smoother now. For $30, I'm very pleased. I doubt I'll ever have tires conventionally balanced again. I guess there is a reason so many commercial users buy them.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

First impression driving a decent distance with the balancing beads is good. While the tires seemed really smooth without any balancing, they're even smoother now. For $30, I'm very pleased. I doubt I'll ever have tires conventionally balanced again. I guess there is a reason so many commercial users buy them.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Aren't they supposed to help extend the life of the tires too? Because every time you drive they rebalance the tire?

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

minus the cracked dash :(

Mine is an eleven, do you have a picture of where it cracked?

Posted

3 places on pass side.showed up a few yrs after a Labor Day weekend trip out of the blue. This is the worst

 

be656cbce3fd8c16c71c4796f6f223ae.jpg

 

8bff9177f7ce75e475321bc919d6f68a.jpg

 

 

Ryan B.

Posted (edited)

Mine is an eleven, do you have a picture of where it cracked?

I have a post on here somewhere that I made a few years back with pictures of the areas prone to cracking...I looked at 15 different used Chevy/GMC trucks/SUVs on the used car lots around here one night. Of the 15, there were 12 that had the cracks all in the same place. The cracks appear at the corners of the dash surrounding the passenger airbag

 

Not my picture but you can see where they occur here (corner closest to the center of the dash and the corner closest to the A-pillar

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152570-cracked-dash-2008-silverado-ltz-cc-vmax/?p=1559141

Edited by hammerhead611
Posted

Aren't they supposed to help extend the life of the tires too? Because every time you drive they rebalance the tire?

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Yes. I had them on my sportbike back a few years ago. Never had a problem on it, and I would frequent 100+mph and hit 156mph one and felt comfortable...until a wind gust came and made me realize I was stupid haha. I haven't used them on my truck, but I might when I replace the stock rubber.

Posted

Aren't they supposed to help extend the life of the tires too? Because every time you drive they rebalance the tire?

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

That's the idea. They're just ceramic beads that roll around in the tire. I've decided conventional tire balancing is pointless since the tires generally wear enough in 10,000 miles (or less) that the balancing is off.

 

I didn't plan it this way, but I essentially got a control test without any balancing. I was surprised how smooth it was with none. But the beads did make a positive difference.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Yeah I hear those things work pretty good. They were always used in truck tires when I was driving TT and straight jobs. The guys there told me they had been running those beads for years.

 

I figure if they can balance a tire that weighs 100 lbs. + , they should have no problem doing anything smaller. :)

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

Anybody on here have the pinout for a 2005 Mustang GT Instrument Panel. I don't normally work on these clusters but I have a 10 thump buddy who insist I repair his Mustang cluster. Please help, he can be so annoying!!!

Posted (edited)

now you need a case :)

 

a665c985a9a4c2e385c920acc6bb2439.jpg

Edited by RyanbabZ71
  • Like 1
Posted

The case is overpriced. Want a case, go buy a small Pelican

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Anybody on here have the pinout for a 2005 Mustang GT Instrument Panel. I don't normally work on these clusters but I have a 10 thump buddy who insist I repair his Mustang cluster. Please help, he can be so annoying!!!

 

I did a stepper motor on a '05 V6 Mustang. No pinout though - was just cave-man work, lucky for me. :lol:

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

The case is overpriced. Want a case, go buy a small Pelican

 

 

What is that?

 

 

now you need a case :)

 

a665c985a9a4c2e385c920acc6bb2439.jpg

 

 

 

Yea I would like to have one, $50 is pretty salty though.

Posted

 

 

What is that?

 

 

 

 

 

Yea I would like to have one, $50 is pretty salty though.

89011d6d30229962036a75a36cb965a0.png

8c3a75318f547f9b57a193e1183b4294.png

 

 

I know you have prime so free shipping

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...