2014+ Suspension Lifts

[jimbrown1]

1 hour ago, AgDoctor said:

You should be able to run your factory wheel and that size tire, depending on the specific tire, in that size. I have the Zone version of that lift with stamped steel UCA's and using a 35x11.50x20, which is similar in size to the 295/60 and I don't rub on the lip of the UCA. It's close but I could run a 295. I am running. Nitto Ridge Graps.

And you're not running spacers with the OEM wheels and 35" tires?  Some shops here in the Houston area are saying it's a 99% chance there will be rubbing without spacers, or buy an aftermarket wheel in 20x9 with +20 offset for the wheels to be a little more tucked, or +1 for them to extend approximately and 1' or 1.5" outside the fenders. 

 

Seems I'm going to have to run 1.5" spacers in front due to the knuckle lift and OEM wheels, and 2" in the rear to get the front and rear tires to line up in the same track.  

Edited May 9, 2025 by jimbrown1
Updating information on spacer use

[Mofi_48]

Hello all, I’m looking into the Eibach pro truck coilover kit (stage 2r) to achieve a a 2in-3in level on my 2017 GMC Sierra 4wd. Was curious to see if anyone has ran 285/60/20 ridge graps on factory -27 offset wheels and had any rubbing issues or anything of the sort. Thanks in advance.

[jimbrown1]

On 5/9/2025 at 10:26 AM, AgDoctor said:

You should be able to run your factory wheel and that size tire, depending on the specific tire, in that size. I have the Zone version of that lift with stamped steel UCA's and using a 35x11.50x20, which is similar in size to the 295/60 and I don't rub on the lip of the UCA. It's close but I could run a 295. I am running. Nitto Ridge Graps.

They were able to get the 4" BDS kit for stamped steel and it didn't require spacers on the front.  Will need to get spacers on the rear so the front and rear tracks are in line.  Rides good with Fox struts and shocks as well.  Toyo Open Country ATII in LT295/60/20 fit perfectly to take up some of the wheel well gap.  Now trying to find out proper psi for tires since the mfg label on door says 35 on 275/55/20.  Maybe 40 psi is appropriate?

Edited May 22, 2025 by jimbrown1

[AndrewD]

 I ran 35 12.5r18's w/ a RC 3.5 lift. It only touched the sway bar at full lock barely on the factory 2015 stock 18's. Now I swapped to a Cognito 4in w/ Fox coilovers etc. The same tires won't come close to clearing the UCAs. I got new wheels with +12mm backspacing to clear and now they rub like Hell on the fender lips. I guess I'm going to have to go back down to a 33x12.5r18, or maby the equivalent of a 34/11.5. I love the new lift (and there is no turning back now after the mods that were done). I won't cut up the fenders either, but i'm very disappointed my tires wouldn't fit w/ the new lift!

Edited May 25, 2025 by AndrewD

[HoosierZ]

 

2016 Z71

Eibach Pro Truck Stage 1 kit set at 2-1/2” of front lift. 

2” rear lift blocks replaced the factory 1-3/16” blocks. 

305/65/18 (34x12) BFG KO3 on 18x9 +12mm offset Black Rhino wheels. 
Front tires are 1/2” outside the fenders and the back tires are flush. 
Front tires slightly rubbed the back corners of the fenders and fender liners. I trimmed the fenders and made trim plates. I used a few strategically placed zip ties to pull the liners back.

 

Edited May 26, 2025 by HoosierZ

[HoosierZ]

Bought a set of Superlift upper control arms to fix my ball joint angle and I may add a thin spacer under the lower strut mount to add another 1/2” of lift for a total of 3” lift. 
 

[UrbanRage]

On 12/4/2025 at 7:36 PM, HoosierZ said:

Bought a set of Superlift upper control arms to fix my ball joint angle and I may add a thin spacer under the lower strut mount to add another 1/2” of lift for a total of 3” lift. 
 

Nice looking truck! 

I've had the Eibach Pros in my garage for about a year now... just haven't had time to install them yet. How do you like them? How bad was the ball joint angle after the install? I was under the impression the angles would be acceptable as long as the lift wasn't above 2.5". In the end, I will be changing my UCAs; the biggest issue is finding ones that will work with the factory 20x9 rims. I really don't want to buy ones..lol.

[HoosierZ]

On 12/10/2025 at 7:59 AM, UrbanRage said:

Nice looking truck! 

I've had the Eibach Pros in my garage for about a year now... just haven't had time to install them yet. How do you like them? How bad was the ball joint angle after the install? I was under the impression the angles would be acceptable as long as the lift wasn't above 2.5". In the end, I will be changing my UCAs; the biggest issue is finding ones that will work with the factory 20x9 rims. I really don't want to buy ones..lol.

The Eibachs with their springs definitely stiffened up the front suspension. They can be a little bit harsh at times such as the edges of bridges where there is a ledge. I feel cracks in the road a little more but they soak up larger bumps much better. They did tighten up the handling in curves with less body roll. The front end doesn’t float and bounce like it did with the factory Ranchos. I am running load range E winter tires and the BFGs are LR F. 
 

The ball joint angle wasn’t bad but the arms were nearly on the droop stops at ride height and I wanted new arms to allow me to lift the front another 1/2”. Eibach recommends not using their shocks with the stamped steel arms due to the possibility of upper ball joint separation. Mine had the aluminum control arms which appear to be the best of the 3 different styles. They have a larger ball joint than the cast steel arms and they don’t pull out of the arms like the stamped arms. These Superlift arms appear to have the same wheel and tire clearance as the factory aluminum arms but they are much thicker and they have clearance at the droop stops to allow more travel without having to cut out the stops that some aftermarket arms require. 
The ball joints are replaceable and happen to be the same one as an early 2000s GM HD truck according to Superlift. 
 

 

 

 This week, I pulled out the shocks to replace the UCAs and while I had them out, I disassembled them and cut another circlip groove 1/2” below the bottom groove with my lathe to reduce the compression on the springs and lower the lift height around 3/4” to increase the droop travel and hopefully soften the ride a little. I added a 3/4” thick lower strut spacer which combined with the lower spring lift gave me an additional 1/2” over where it was at. It now sits at 3” of total lift. I also made and installed a 1” diff drop to save the CV joints. The ride seems to be a little better but it could just be my imagination. 
 

 

 

Edited January 1 by HoosierZ

[ProGrade Shaun]

On 9/6/2013 at 5:25 PM, MikeNH said:

 

 

Most of these suspension lifts don't do crap for off road performance- you sit up higher but still have lousy flex, lousy suspension travel and likely poor suspension control. It's all for looks but even so, I'd never want any of the wheels lift makers seem to chose to show off their stuff. I could potentially accept 20s on a big tire but I generally don't like black wheels and hate the over styled stuff. My taste is old school I guess.

Yeah, well if you just want a bit of clearance for mud maybe.  I am a heavy equipment operator in Alberta Canada and a regular lift is VERY helpful for 'off road' if it's mud cleaning clearance you want.  You get goose ****** clay packed in your wheel wells and yer done.  A lift is helpful for that.