Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 hours ago, Bigrich said:

2.5 level kit from suspension maxx. BFG K02’s. Looking into 4 to 6 inch lift but I’m hearing different issues with electronic steering stabilatrac & abs. Any one have good luck with lift kits? I have magnaride and my truck rides nice don’t want to ruin it

BDC2F0E4-77D1-4459-B36D-1237B17F5EA4.jpeg

I don't have magnaride,  but I love my 4.5 zone lift. For me the ride is so much better stock.  The add a leaf on rear really helped my truck.  Hauling is now more like a truck should be. 

Posted
2.5 level kit from suspension maxx. BFG K02’s. Looking into 4 to 6 inch lift but I’m hearing different issues with electronic steering stabilatrac & abs. Any one have good luck with lift kits? I have magnaride and my truck rides nice don’t want to ruin it
BDC2F0E4-77D1-4459-B36D-1237B17F5EA4.thumb.jpeg.0c1bbdcc2eab5a169b7efebe82084420.jpeg

Look at the bds 6”


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys
Posted
6 hours ago, Bigrich said:

2.5 level kit from suspension maxx. BFG K02’s. Looking into 4 to 6 inch lift but I’m hearing different issues with electronic steering stabilatrac & abs. Any one have good luck with lift kits? I have magnaride and my truck rides nice don’t want to ruin it

BDC2F0E4-77D1-4459-B36D-1237B17F5EA4.jpeg

I have the same in my truck and have been debating the same.. I’m going with the 4” Fabtech uniball lift! It’s supposed to be a good solid lift. They say you can’t run stock wheels however someone on these forms is running the stock 22’s with 1.25” spacers! 

Posted

That’s the problem I want to keep my 20 inch Denali wheels, so the 4 inch Fabtech kit is out. Rough Country 5 inch or BDS 6 inch is my only options 

Posted
40 minutes ago, Bigrich said:

That’s the problem I want to keep my 20 inch Denali wheels, so the 4 inch Fabtech kit is out. Rough Country 5 inch or BDS 6 inch is my only options 

I'm doing 6" BDS (not magneride) and was told (and seen all over the forum) stock wheels would not work without spacers. The backspacing becomes an issue after being lifted. You might get away with pretty thin spacers, but I think you'll need something.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Bigrich said:

That’s the problem I want to keep my 20 inch Denali wheels, so the 4 inch Fabtech kit is out. Rough Country 5 inch or BDS 6 inch is my only options 

Well if you don’t mind throwing a spacer on I’m sure you could get away with it.. according to the other guy with a 17 Denali he ran a 1.25” and hasn’t had any issues with the 4” Fabtech.. might be an option? If I get mine in before you (hoping in the next month) I’ll be sure to let you know how it goes! 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, CO-Stark said:

I'm doing 6" BDS (not magneride) and was told (and seen all over the forum) stock wheels would not work without spacers. The backspacing becomes an issue after being lifted. You might get away with pretty thin spacers, but I think you'll need something.

I read that too but also heard you can because the bds lifts widen the track width.. by about 1-1.5” lol it’s tough to really figure it out haha

  • Thanks 1
Posted
31 minutes ago, Cali315 said:

I read that too but also heard you can because the bds lifts widen the track width.. by about 1-1.5” lol it’s tough to really figure it out haha

I know, it's ridiculous. Everybody on here has mentioned the increase in track width, but the shop doing mine swears that doesn't happen. I did take some stock measurements the other day and was surprised to learn I have almost an inch wider track in front than back, even at stock. Had never noticed it but if you look REAL close down the side, its there.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, CO-Stark said:

I know, it's ridiculous. Everybody on here has mentioned the increase in track width, but the shop doing mine swears that doesn't happen. I did take some stock measurements the other day and was surprised to learn I have almost an inch wider track in front than back, even at stock. Had never noticed it but if you look REAL close down the side, its there.

Lol it really is! It’s tough to get a for sure answer as everyone runs a little bit of a different set up! You really have to be the guinea pig of your own set up and hope for the best! That is surprising on a pickup.. I know cars usually have a wider stance in the front vs. The rear.. you’d think a pickup would be a little more even!

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Anyone running Rough Country 5 inch kits? They have 2 different ones, a bracket kit & a knuckle kit. They state you can run factory wheels with the bracket kit with no spacers. There is a lot of cutting involved with the bracket kit & it looks like a lot of moving parts to possibly brake. 

Posted

1.25 spacers isn’t too bad as long as it doesn’t cause issues the the wheel sensor and cause stabilatrac issues. My brother who is a GM tech warned me he had seen trucks come in with these problems after lifts are installed. If the wheel is too far away from the knuckle it will set it off and abs will kick in. 

Posted

Which is the most popular & reliable lift kit being used? 

Posted

To level the 2014 to 2018 models it would seem you would just need to bring up the front 3 inches?

Posted

Quarter inch spacers isn’t to bad, I don’t like the look of the wheels sticking out like you see on some of these trucks. I know they have to have issues with that set up? Lifted trucks with crazy offsets & street tires? Why?

Posted

I have spoke with Brad with custom offsets they have a a lot of install videos on you tube. He recommended BDS for the late model GM trucks. Of course human nature has me looking into the cheaper kits to compare the differences. I don’t have as many choices due to the magnaride system. My ideal set up is lifted with 35’s with factory wheels that don’t stick out much

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,208 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...