Jump to content

do you let your truck run before driving?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Not a bad idea on cold winter mornings, but I generally let mine idle out of the garage and blast off.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I've watched mine run with the valve covers off...it took about 45 seconds to get all the valvetrain well oiled. That being said, I try to let mine run for a while to get some oil pumping if its warm. If its cold, it never moves with less than five minutes idling to heat up and circulate the oil.

Posted

I always crank mine up from the passenger side then walk around and hop in and give it 30~ seconds to warm up in the summer then im off. When its cold ill give it several minutes or remotely crank it up to let it warm up

Posted

Let mine get up to at least 160 F before I put a load on the engine. Oil is definitely circulating by then, but more importantly the different metals have expanded sufficiently by 160 and above.

Posted

It's not so much an oil thing, it's because an engine contains many diff types of materials ferrous and non-ferrous which expand at totally different rates when exposed to heat. It's a good idea to let stuff get to operating temp before putting it under load. Just good practise.

Posted

I agree with those who say it's probably good to let it run for a bit, but I've put many hundreds of thousands on a good number of trucks in my life without ever having any issues with engine problems or oil consumption... and I start mine a go. You can be overly anal about anything....

Posted

I have a short commute so I usually let it run for a few minutes in warmer weather during winter try to let it run at least 5 minutes.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

as soon as i have oil pressure, 20+ psi i'm gone. i have a 100 yard long driveway, and 6 speed bumps. so at idling down to the road is warmed up enough. my exhaust is a bit loud when cold, and being on call for work 24/6 i also try to be respectful to my neighbors as much as possible.. :thumbs:

Posted

Let mine get up to at least 160 F before I put a load on the engine. Oil is definitely circulating by then, but more importantly the different metals have expanded sufficiently by 160 and above.

+1 on that, that's the ticket.

 

Have the thermo open @ engine operating temperature.

Posted

This is my first truck with remote start. So because I have it I always start her up just before I run out the door (summer & Winter). Prior, no in summer, but on colder monring in winter I would go outside, remove the key from my ring, let her warm up and use the remote to lock and let me in.

Posted

I am with Chawkins on this, I crank it and drop it in gear and let it eat. I don't care if there is a trailer attatched or 0 degrees outside. 192,xxx miles and counting on the Yukon. The 5.3 has never been opened up nor has the 4L60

Posted

I am with Chawkins on this, I crank it and drop it in gear and let it eat. I don't care if there is a trailer attatched or 0 degrees outside. 192,xxx miles and counting on the Yukon. The 5.3 has never been opened up nor has the 4L60

That's cuz it doesn't cost you 15k for an engine rebuild, ur tune would change nitro!! I could find a 5.3 for the price of a couple forged dmax rods LULZ

Posted

That's cuz it doesn't cost you 15k for an engine rebuild, ur tune would change nitro!! I could find a 5.3 for the price of a couple forged dmax rods LULZ

I doubt my "tune" would change at all. Always did the same thing with $20,000+ race engines. We could argue for weeks about metal and heat theories but it would be a huge waste of time. I will fire and roll you let er warm up everybody is happy

Posted

Jump in and go. Only time I wait after starting is when I'm still waiting on the family to get in the vehicle.

Posted

That's cuz it doesn't cost you 15k for an engine rebuild, ur tune would change nitro!! I could find a 5.3 for the price of a couple forged dmax rods LULZ

I doubt my "tune" would change at all. Always did the same thing with $20,000+ race engines. We could argue for weeks about metal and heat theories but it would be a huge waste of time. I will fire and roll you let er warm up everybody is happy

Would be a waste of time. I'm not stubborn, I'm just right! :) LOLOLOLOL

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
    • Yes, you must have seen my thread on the Blazer. HOT GARBAGE, but I love them anyway. I'm convinced every car guy has a soft sport for an S/T series somewheres. Probably even a Panther too, if I'm being an honest car guy. That doesn't mean they aren't junk. And they definitely don't get better with age. I sometimes play with old cars, but that's by choice. I don't rely on them and they aren't my everyday fleet.   Derek plays the common man on Youtube and that's no doubt where he started. Now he has Youtube money (and Motortrend, etc). You think his crews and his wife ride around in old beaters when they're chasing him and his wrecks across the country? No he's got newer and nicer stuff for that, you'll see glimpses of it in the footage.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...