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do you let your truck run before driving?


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Posted

Just start that son of a bitch and drive it.

+1

 

LOL

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Posted

Only warm it up in the winter.

Same here. Once it hits the negatives(Celsius), I start running it for a bit. I let it run for 2 full command starts when its minus 30-40 haha.

Posted

In severe cold, I let it run for about a minute, then cruise down the road out of the subdivision I live in, this allows the rest of the drive line to heat up to normal operating temps all at the same time. summer time, same warm up but with remote start as I walk towards it then in gear and go.

Posted

I let mine run for a couple minutes at start up, and let it idle maybe 30-45 sec. before I shut it down. I know thats what my wife says too....

Jim

Posted

Mine is in gear and rolling as soon as seat belt is fastened, summer or winter. Since I am also somewhat of a normal driver, the only time the pedal gets close to the metal is when I am passing on the highway, or trying to merge onto the highway. No need to worry about warming up the engine before loading it when I know the highway is 5 minutes away, more than long enough to warm engine.

 

Not sure that the topic here is about warming up the engine or "do you drive your truck like you stole it after startup?"

Posted

I get in, crank, and it's in reverse before the revs settle after it starting

 

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Mine is in reverse before the starter disengages. lol If it's burning gas, I want some work out of it.

Posted

Most motor oils, even many full synthetics allow metal to metal contact until fresh oil is pumped up to the top end. You can use oils that leave a lube shield on metal contact surfaces so that cold start/immediate operation -even months after last operation, is not a problem.

 

There are additives that can help, but additives can also harm if they are not compatible with your oil. Various detergent and corrosion packages can conflict with each other, (the reason you don't mix different oils together) so it is best to either use a robust oil with friction modifiers, or an additive with zinc, moly, and phosphorus devoid of detergent and corrosion control.

 

Over doing this can cause problems with emission control devices if your vehicle is so equipped. So read up and keep avoiding the $19.95 oil change.

 

Regardless of oil quality, I still prefer to warm up a bit during cold months just to prevent overpressure in the oil system, although synthetic oils really minimize that issue.

Posted

Most motor oils, even many full synthetics allow metal to metal contact until fresh oil is pumped up to the top end. You can use oils that leave a lube shield on metal contact surfaces so that cold start/immediate operation -even months after last operation, is not a problem.

 

There are additives that can help, but additives can also harm if they are not compatible with your oil. Various detergent and corrosion packages can conflict with each other, (the reason you don't mix different oils together) so it is best to either use a robust oil with friction modifiers, or an additive with zinc, moly, and phosphorus devoid of detergent and corrosion control.

 

Over doing this can cause problems with emission control devices if your vehicle is so equipped. So read up and keep avoiding the $19.95 oil change.

 

Regardless of oil quality, I still prefer to warm up a bit during cold months just to prevent overpressure in the oil system, although synthetic oils really minimize that issue.

 

Maybe it is just me, but, the above post reads like an ad for some additive company.

 

Oil containers all have markings that show what standards they meet. Read the owners manual, find out what spec oil the manufacturer requires, and purchase oil that meets those standards. One of the main functions oil provides is to prevent metal on metal contact, even after sitting for months. If the engine required more protection than what the oil specified provides, manufacturers would specify that you use a different oil.

Posted

You're right. Always use manufacturers specified oil types. However there are a lot of oils out there that meet the specs in the can, but do not after just a few miles of use. Those are mainly the cheap ones, and they really allow a lot of wear and formation of sludge. Their failure is due to a lack of additives sufficient to make up for loss during use, and they will be built with low grade base oils which oxidize quickly. No matter what you do, these oils will cost you.

 

So seeing the spec on the can is a guide, but can be misleading if you trust that to carry you to 5K or 10K intervals. Even 3K is risky with low grade oils, and they are out there.

 

With regard to metal to metal contact, that is accomplished with a thin oil film that separates and floats moving components. Sit for months or sometimes days, and there is insufficient barrier briefly until the oil is pumped back into bearings and followers. Zinc and moly are effective at cutting this start-up wear.

 

I sell oil commercially, not additives, not retail.

Posted

I always turn the key until the pump is done, crank, then give it a few mins. Always done this with not ill effects. Sounds like its useless haha, but makes me feel better.

Posted

I always since I was a kid let the engine atleast idle for 30 sec,s or so before going.. And closer to a minute in colder temps..

Posted

my trucks a '98 but i wanted to say i let my truck run a couple of minutes before driving for the oil to flow. i try to with any vehicle. i let the truck because i recently had to put newintake manifold gaskets on and it has 140k miles, so i try to give some time for mechanical issues.

Posted

Does letting your truck run, to get the motor lubed good before driving, help keep a motor peppy?

Never shut it down been runnning now since 2001.

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