Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Great info in this thread. Thought I would add a little more.

 

 

I used the lights mentioned previously: http://m.ebay.com/itm/8pc-Truck-Bed-White-LED-Lighting-Light-Kit-For-Chevy-Dodge-GMC-Trucks-/161940110503?nav=SEARCH

 

I got the gm wire harness# 22878806. The connector housing on the light ends are: TE# 1-1718643-1 found here: http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1718643-1.html

 

I wanted my aftermarket lights to plug into the harness using the stock plugs so I found the mating connector. 3 parts are required, the housing, the seals (2X), and the contacts (2X) (pins).

 

Housing: TE# 1-1703498-1 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=1-1703498-1virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-1-1703498-1

 

Seal: TE# 967067-2 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=967067-2virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-967067-2

 

Contact: TE# 1718758-1 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=1718758-1virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-1718758-1

 

I bought everything from mouser, bought extras just in case I messed up. $10 for enough parts to do 4 connections.

 

Hope this helps.

  • Like 1
Posted

Great info in this thread. Thought I would add a little more.

 

 

I used the lights mentioned previously: http://m.ebay.com/itm/8pc-Truck-Bed-White-LED-Lighting-Light-Kit-For-Chevy-Dodge-GMC-Trucks-/161940110503?nav=SEARCH

 

I got the gm wire harness# 22878806. The connector housing on the light ends are: TE# 1-1718643-1 found here: http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1718643-1.html

 

I wanted my aftermarket lights to plug into the harness using the stock plugs so I found the mating connector. 3 parts are required, the housing, the seals (2X), and the contacts (2X) (pins).

 

Housing: TE# 1-1703498-1 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=1-1703498-1virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-1-1703498-1

 

Seal: TE# 967067-2 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=967067-2virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-967067-2

 

Contact: TE# 1718758-1 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=1718758-1virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-1718758-1

 

I bought everything from mouser, bought extras just in case I messed up. $10 for enough parts to do 4 connections.

 

Hope this helps.

This is the same thing I did for my second set. I made a "Y" connector from the first ones to the second ones using those same connectors. I believe I also used Mouser. All the wires end up hidden under the bad rails so it is nice and relatively clean.

Posted

This is the same thing I did for my second set. I made a "Y" connector from the first ones to the second ones using those same connectors. I believe I also used Mouser. All the wires end up hidden under the bad rails so it is nice and relatively clean.

 

Could y'all share some pictures?

Posted (edited)

2nd the pictures please.

I will share some pics the one I did and of the parts and what I made. Give me a couple days though. I put mine together right before I moved and still trying to find many of the items I want/need. (such as the camera I used). Not to mention all while still working full time, Etc...

Edited by wulfgott
Posted

Was the GM wire harness long enough and did it have the plug on the end or just two wires? Thanks.

Posted

Was the GM wire harness long enough and did it have the plug on the end or just two wires? Thanks.

Not sure what you mean by long enough for the wire harness.

 

For what I did, the wires didn't need to be any longer as I made my wires/connectors the length I needed. The GM kit wires run from underneath the truck at the junction box then up behind the tail lights and from there under the stake pocket and under the bed rails to just past I want to say midway between the tail light and the wheel well. There are a couple holes where the lights mount under the rail there. The wires had enough slack as one of the GM lights is mounted backwards (they are the same light on both sides) so the wire has to be able to go past it and into the connector on the light.

 

So, back when I did this I purchased a second set of lights (I wanted them all to match) the male and female connectors (and all pieces) and wire, etc. Then, made a "Y" harness to split the wires so I could power two sets of the GM lights instead of just one as it is designed for. Adding enough wire to get midway between the wheel well and the front bed bulkhead (all still hidden under the rail). There were no holes for a 2nd set of lights to mount though. So I just used double stick automotive tape to put them in place and cut the notches in my bed liner needed for them to shine through.

 

This isn't too far off from what bone450 mentioned above and was kind enough to provide all the part numbers for. I believe he used different lights though than the GM ones. I only went with GM as I already had 2 of them.

 

His post is below:

 

 

Great info in this thread. Thought I would add a little more.

 

 

I used the lights mentioned previously: http://m.ebay.com/itm/8pc-Truck-Bed-White-LED-Lighting-Light-Kit-For-Chevy-Dodge-GMC-Trucks-/161940110503?nav=SEARCH

 

I got the gm wire harness# 22878806. The connector housing on the light ends are: TE# 1-1718643-1 found here: http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1718643-1.html

 

I wanted my aftermarket lights to plug into the harness using the stock plugs so I found the mating connector. 3 parts are required, the housing, the seals (2X), and the contacts (2X) (pins).

 

Housing: TE# 1-1703498-1 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=1-1703498-1virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-1-1703498-1

 

Seal: TE# 967067-2 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=967067-2virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-967067-2

 

Contact: TE# 1718758-1 http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=1718758-1virtualkey57100000virtualkey571-1718758-1

 

I bought everything from mouser, bought extras just in case I messed up. $10 for enough parts to do 4 connections.

 

Hope this helps.

Posted

I need to add lights and was wondering if the GM harness had the plug that plugs in under the truck. It's around $27 for the harness. If it has the plug and wires long enough for the lights, then I'm happy. Otherwise I'm looking at siliconing in 2 wires in the dummy plug and adding my own wire long enough to get under the bed rails.

Posted

If you buy the $27 harness you get what was pictured previously. A full harness which connects by the spare tire and has connectors for the lights. In this picture you can see the light end of the harness (GM harness has the plastic loom material on it).

post-158986-0-82675300-1465261984_thumb.jpg

 

If you want to connect to the GM harness with a factory connector buy the items I stated previously. Note you may need different contact / pin size and seal size depending on your wire gage and insulation diameter. If you buy the items I mention above this is what you get:

post-158986-0-87042500-1465261912_thumb.jpg

 

To assemble the connector I did the following:

  1. Cut the wire to length. Do not strip the wire.
  2. Slide the insulated wire through the seal.
  3. Strip the wire. Maybe 3/16".
  4. Bring the seal flush to the end of the stripped insulation.
  5. Wrap the gull-wing crimp on the contact around the seal. This will hold the contact and seal together pretty good before you crimp the wire. I did this with my fingers and finished it up with a needle nose.
  6. Crimp the contact to the wire. I didn't have the proper tools so I crimped it a little and then soldered the connections.
  7. If using LED's verify what wire you need to be positive and negative. You can stick the pins into the GM harness at this time to verify.
  8. Insert the wires into the housing. You should hear a click once fully inserted. I used an allen wrench to shove the wire and seal into the housing.

post-158986-0-86128500-1465262867_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-04151100-1465262871_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-19545000-1465262877_thumb.jpg

 

Hope this helps.

 

If you don't want factory connections just cut off the ends and connect how you want.

 

post-158986-0-87042500-1465261912_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-82675300-1465261984_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-86128500-1465262867_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-04151100-1465262871_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-19545000-1465262877_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-87042500-1465261912_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-82675300-1465261984_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-86128500-1465262867_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-04151100-1465262871_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-19545000-1465262877_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-87042500-1465261912_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-82675300-1465261984_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-86128500-1465262867_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-04151100-1465262871_thumb.jpg

post-158986-0-19545000-1465262877_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I don't want to spend the time making my own harness. I'm waiting for someone to post the part number for the harness on the 16 and then use the extang or tuxedo 4 or 6 light kit from there.

 

Sent from my BlackBerry Priv. The power of Android combined with the security of BlackBerry.

 

Through some digging in found the harness part number for the 2016. It is 23327843. I just ordered mine from GM Wholesale Direct, they were the only ones with reasonable shipping.

 

http://www.gmwholesaledirect.com/oe-gm/23327843

 

Hope this helps!

Edited by Mille170
Posted

I ordered my lights from Amazon yesterday. I'll make my own harness with my dummy plug.

I did this, easy to do

 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Posted

My cheap amazon lights are still hanging in there, one fell off because the tape didn't hold up but, I just duct taped it back on. Great mod to have when you need to see what's in your box.

Posted

I ordered my lights from Amazon yesterday. I'll make my own harness with my dummy plug.

I appreciate your ability to make your own but for the price I would go for the factory harness. Easy plug and play and it comes with the connectors to pin it to the body. Easy to wire anything you want to it at that point.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 439 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...