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Posted

 

The bolts have to go in from the top. I think the problem is that you didn't take off the UCA nut completely and drop the hub.. I had the same issue. I tried to leave it on by one thread and pry the lower spacer in under the strut. Once you take the UCA nut off and the steering tie rod end off, you can articulate the hub any direction you want to get the bolt in.

 

As I think about it, I may have done the bottom spacer before the top spacer. The first side took me forever it seemed, but the second side was like 30 minutes total.

 

Here is my strut down before I took off the UCA and dropped it completely.

 

Well, I made that RC kit my bitch. Turns out your solution to the problem was spot on. Thanks again to anyone that responded. Now can I expect this thing to settle a little bit? She looks a bit nose high, but going off the measuring tape, its a half inch or more higher in the rear.

 

I sent a picture to a buddy and he thinks that the hood is giving the illusion that the front is higher. Maybe he's right.

 

Thanks again fella's!!

Posted

 

Well, I made that RC kit my bitch. Turns out your solution to the problem was spot on. Thanks again to anyone that responded. Now can I expect this thing to settle a little bit? She looks a bit nose high, but going off the measuring tape, its a half inch or more higher in the rear.

 

I sent a picture to a buddy and he thinks that the hood is giving the illusion that the front is higher. Maybe he's right.

 

That's why I put in the rear block, because even though the fenders look level with the 2.5 spacers up front, the overall look of the truck is nose high due to the hood size. I don't mind rake after af front/rear level, but I can't stand the "Cali" look even it's an optical illusion. Makes the truck look like it has broken rear springs.

  • Like 2
Posted

Glad it turned out for ya. As mentioned above I also put in the rear block and gives just a tad of rake. Almost looks level from front to back. But having said that all guys have or want different looks. From there I put on 275 65 20 ko2s and think it turned out well. I don't think it sacrificed ride and or gas mileage a hole lot. I'm enjoying it and makes it look more like a truck. Would post a picture or 2 but damed if I could figure it out.

Posted

irish4life8911 This guys profile is where I got the idea from and his pictures show before and after. I think it looks awesome.

Posted

Here are a few more pics.....BTW, this build didn't require any cutting or trimming of any kind and was done at Wilson's Offroad in Fayetteville, NC!!!

 

12916145_10153379658197056_8235116227092

11696587_10153379658192056_700557257782712885869_10153379658182056_758642289597312593858_10153379658117056_123493950221112888756_10153379658127056_7504186454267

Symp, that is a sharp truck. Haven't seen a lot of 3.5 lift/ levels. Very nice. When you have a free minute do you mind measuring your height from center cap to the fender?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Got a question for the leveling experts.

 

I have a 2016 sierra CC 4x4 All terrain.

 

I'm talking to a shop about installing a 2.5 RC level and replacing the factory block in the back. Maybe stacking them (not sure yet).

 

He is saying I need new rear shocks...is this correct? If so, what do y'all recommend? I hear Fox is good.

Posted

For just adding the rcx 2.5 kit there's no need to replace the shocks. Stacking the factory w rc I can't comment on but I do know they make shock extenders for when the lift gets past the shock length point. Im looking to do a 3 inch rear block so I may get thus just to be safe

http://m.ebay.com/itm/181958941779

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a 2016 sierra CC 4x4 All terrain.

 

I'm talking to a shop about installing a 2.5 RC level and replacing the factory block in the back. Maybe stacking them (not sure yet).

 

He is saying I need new rear shocks...is this correct? If so, what do y'all recommend? I hear Fox is good.

 

Never stack rear blocks. They are cheap. Just get a 4" block.

 

Do NOT need new longer rear shocks for a 2.5 level.

Posted

 

Never stack rear blocks. They are cheap. Just get a 4" block.

 

Do NOT need new longer rear shocks for a 2.5 level.

Ah ok thanks! Yea I'll either just leave the factory 1" back there maybe replace it with the 2" still don't know.. Any thoughts?

Posted

Ah ok thanks! Yea I'll either just leave the factory 1" back there maybe replace it with the 2" still don't know.. Any thoughts?

 

IMO the rear block that comes the RC 2.5 is a must install. Sure, it leaves about 1" of rake, but without it the truck looks nose high even if it's really not by the tape measure.

  • Like 2
Posted

Symp, that is a sharp truck. Haven't seen a lot of 3.5 lift/ levels. Very nice. When you have a free minute do you mind measuring your height from center cap to the fender?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Jeff5347, both front and back measured at 25.5". Sorry it took me so long.

Posted

 

Jeff5347, both front and back measured at 25.5". Sorry it took me so long.

Not a problem. Thanks a lot

 

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