Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

The factory block is replaced with the 2" or 3" block. You do not stack the blocks and you do replace the u bolts. If you are using a level to lift your truck 3" you may also want to consider replacing your upper control arms. If your 3" front level is generated by more than one spacer you may consider removing one. If it is a one piece spacer then a block or adding a leaf will bring up the back.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Does the truck retain a 1 inch factory block that you removed when you did your 2 inch block? So a three inch block would raise it 2 inches? I have to get different u bolts correct?

The factory block is replaced with the 2" or 3" block. You do not stack the blocks and you do replace the u bolts. If you are using a level to lift your truck 3" you may also want to consider replacing your upper control arms. If your 3" front level is generated by more than one spacer you may consider removing one. If it is a one piece spacer then a block or adding a leaf will bring up the back.

Like Donstar said, I removed the original rear block. I think its about 1.25 inch's. So the rear 2 inch gave me an added .75 lift, which I feel it needs the 3 to be visually level. The motofab front is a solid piece. Fairly easy to install. Like donstar said UCA would be recommended just right now I hove the stock steels. With mine I love it. More aggressive looking, no noises or problems and the ride is still beautiful. All I really need is new rims and 33s to get that nice look. In time. Just a PSA, after the install...drive it for a week or so then go back around and check all your nuts and bolts for their proper tightness. My swaybar was a bit loose so I retightened it. I haven't had any adverse effects to the level. Ride, comfort, feel, are still mint. Definitely feel that higher up that I wanted. Just need steps, wheels, a tonnue, exhaust, tint, ect.... And a 6 inch lift lol
rintintin Enthusiast

rintintin

Posted
Posted

Rintintin can you post up a pictire or 2? Down the side and profile pic.

Please check my page. I posted some pics. I apologize for the delay. if you need pics at other angles please let me know

Like to see the same, checked his gallery but not good angles of stance and wheels/tires.

Please check my page. I posted some pics. I apologize for the delay. if you need pics at other angles please let me know

aggieguy03 Enthusiast

aggieguy03

Posted
Posted

This post and the post by patrick983 couldn't have came at a better time for me. I'm torn between these two sizes of this same tire with this same level kit. 275/65-20 or 285/65-20?!?!?

 

Aggieguy, could you possibly take an front angled pic and a straight on front pic and post?

 

Much thanks if you could!!

Here is a down the side shot, I'll see if I can snap a few more tomorrow.

post-150848-0-99548100-1457926609.jpeg

post-150848-0-99548100-1457926609.jpeg

post-150848-0-99548100-1457926609.jpeg

post-150848-0-99548100-1457926609.jpeg

aggieguy03 Enthusiast

aggieguy03

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

You wanted to make sure we saw this truck, so you posted it on three different threads! J/K :)

 

Get a bungee and turn your wheel all the way in either direction. Use the bungee to hold your steering (lightly) at full lock. Now look at the spacing between the back edge of your tire to the swaybar. Is it hitting? Go to the other side of the truck, and look at the spacing between the upper control arm (UCA) and the edge of your tire. Is it hitting? You can cut and tie-strap liner, but you can't do anything for swaybar or UCA rub except move towards neutral or negative offset. New rims or spacers...and we all know about spacers.

 

My fear on swaybar/UCA rub is that the tire is not very thick in the sidewall, so I don't want to wear that or heat it up and lead to a blowout. I'm running a 10.83" wide (275) tire, and at full lock with a +24 stock rim, I have 1/4" of UCA clearance at full lock....I have about 1" of swaybar clearance, but the swaybar has a curve to it, so a taller tire actually makes it worse. I was all set to go 295 or 305, but with only 1/4" clearance, it just ain't gonna happen. I'm even starting to have doubts a 285 won't hit. The best way to solve this problem is 0 offset rims on these trucks. Not sure it's worth it to me.....yet.

LOL, you got me :) I did post it on three, wanted to cover all the threads that helped make the decision. Not sure everyone was following all three.

 

At full lock, I'm clear of both the sway bar and UCAs on both sides. I have rubbed a few times driving today, and will investigate that in the light tomorrow. It wasn't vibrating the steering wheel at all, so it was not as bad as I thought it would be. I'm hopeful zip ties and done!

 

I think a 295 would be pushing it and a 305 would definitely rub both sway bar and UCAs on the stock wheels. I really would like to push them out a little, as I wanted to have just a bit outside the fender, but don't feel like making the investment just yet.

 

I loved the truck already, but now am really digging how good it looks. Especially when parked next to a stock version. I've got another 150 miles on it since the first day and am getting 17.1 on the highway on the DIC, so I'm happy so far.

Edited by aggieguy03
Fole75 Enthusiast

Fole75

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just curious, with getting new tires... I am going to run 2.5 level up front and add a leaf for the rear.. Was really looking at the cooper st maxx in 275/70r18.. Is it possible to go to the 295/70r18?? I want to keep my stock 18 wheels right now..would it be rubbing overload with the 295's with what set up I plan on... The 275's are cheaper...

 

I did search but I wanna keep the stock wheel (funds). But just want to fill out that wheel well..more and more I'm torn between the discoverer at3 and st maxx...

Edited by Fole75
bigsam94 Enthusiast

bigsam94

Posted
Posted

has anyone had any problems with wind noise after leveling their truck? i have a rc 2inch level and when theres a cross breeze on the highway it makes this crazy wind noise now

Costain44 Enthusiast

Costain44

Posted
Posted

I know this is repeating myself but I ordered my rims today and have to decide on tires. Going with either 275/55/20 or 275/60/20 ko2s. Just hopeing someone here has tried fitting the 275/60/20s with a 1.5" front level. I know ppl are running them on the 2" level but I really want to stick with the 1.5". I just can't seem to find anyone that can guarantee they'll fit. If anyone can help me out at all it's very much appreciated.

Jackseric Enthusiast

Jackseric

Posted
Posted

has anyone had any problems with wind noise after leveling their truck? i have a rc 2inch level and when theres a cross breeze on the highway it makes this crazy wind noise now

 

There is a TSB on door seals and door alignment that could be the solution to that, but I don't believe it has anything to do with a level.

bigsam94 Enthusiast

bigsam94

Posted
Posted

 

There is a TSB on door seals and door alignment that could be the solution to that, but I don't believe it has anything to do with a level.

 

There is a TSB on door seals and door alignment that could be the solution to that, but I don't believe it has anything to do with a level.

Do you know the tsb number?

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

I know this is repeating myself but I ordered my rims today and have to decide on tires. Going with either 275/55/20 or 275/60/20 ko2s. Just hopeing someone here has tried fitting the 275/60/20s with a 1.5" front level. I know ppl are running them on the 2" level but I really want to stick with the 1.5". I just can't seem to find anyone that can guarantee they'll fit. If anyone can help me out at all it's very much appreciated.

You'll be fine. There are guys running 275/60/20's with no lift or level at all, on stock rims. A 1.5" will give you plenty of room.

Jackseric Enthusiast

Jackseric

Posted
Posted

Do you know the tsb number?

 

Sorry I cannot find it. I found it posted on the forum here before but can't seem to find it now. Has to do with seals and replacement door pins and re-alignment of the doors.

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

Just curious, with getting new tires... I am going to run 2.5 level up front and add a leaf for the rear.. Was really looking at the cooper st maxx in 275/70r18.. Is it possible to go to the 295/70r18?? I want to keep my stock 18 wheels right now..would it be rubbing overload with the 295's with what set up I plan on... The 275's are cheaper...

 

I did search but I wanna keep the stock wheel (funds). But just want to fill out that wheel well..more and more I'm torn between the discoverer at3 and st maxx...

275s fit without level. Same with 285s on most 2014+.

 

295/70 fit with level if you tie strap, trim a lot, and can live with UCA and swaybar rub at full lock.

  • Like 1
twlander New Member

twlander

Posted
Posted

I am trying to install the 2.5" RC leveling kit and it says to disconnect the EPS connectors under the skid plate. Could anyone tell me which and where the connectors are located? I see way more than 3 different connectors and would really like to know so I can install it right and not mess anything up.

jsouth Enthusiast

jsouth

Posted
Posted

What is the best way to level a truck and not have a rough ride? I have a 2014 silverado. I have looked at spacer kits, coilovers, bilsteins, and suspension lifts. Bilstein 5100 seem to be popular but dont know if it would be enough lift and seen some comments that it is rough at highest setting. Looked at rancho quicklift and alot of comments say it is rough or regret it. A small suspension lift kit with shocks and uca replacement is starting to look like a better option for the money. Trying to keep from spending $2000+ on coilovers like king shocks. Any help would be appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
    • chris21
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By chris21 · Posted

      I'm pretty sure it doesn't actually recalibrate the speedometer it just changes the wheel speed sensor inputs to the computer. The truck still thinks it has stock tires.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I apologize, I missed this post, at risk of going off CURRENT TOPIC.   I'm not saying it is BS, I'm questioning how much information is being held back. GM is NOT going to spell out exactly every parameter in the algorithm. Liability, intellectual property, etc.    I'm not naive enough to believe that it is as simple as revolutions, coolant temperature, miles, time; are you?    I don't do irrational either, and boiling the OLM down to four simple values that I could code in an afternoon (I'm not a coder) is irrational - unless it suits your agenda to ignore it. 
    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Chris 21 I appreciate your constructive response. !!  😉😉😉   The 6.6 is gas.  Correct me if I’m wrong but by recalibrating the speedo you’re correcting the shift points of the transmission on these trucks.?.
    • newdude
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By newdude · Posted

      That is a huge misconception.     Bigger does not always equal safer.  Modifying does not make it safer either, with exceptions.   Think of this.  Your truck in stock form is capable of emergency maneuvers, proper stopping distances, its handling is designed around the factory wheel/tire packages, etc.   37s and a lift?  Now you've affected your braking distances, handling and ride control.  You've raised your center of gravity higher.  Your front visibility is now obstructed more than stock, same for your rear.  Does it look cooler?  Yes.  Does it now work as good as it did from factory on road?  NO.       As for my mention of exceptions?  Say you had a sedan or crossover.  They typically come with all season tires.  If you swap out for a performance all season or a summer tire, you improve your car by lowering its stopping distance (better braking because of traction) and improve the handling (regular and emergency) of the vehicle.  That is an actually improving modification.  My old 2019 LD 1500, I ran UHP all season tires on 20in wheels in a factory offered size.  It improved all aspects of how it drove over the Duratracs it came with from the factory in the stock 18" tire.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...