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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

The factory block is replaced with the 2" or 3" block. You do not stack the blocks and you do replace the u bolts. If you are using a level to lift your truck 3" you may also want to consider replacing your upper control arms. If your 3" front level is generated by more than one spacer you may consider removing one. If it is a one piece spacer then a block or adding a leaf will bring up the back.

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Does the truck retain a 1 inch factory block that you removed when you did your 2 inch block? So a three inch block would raise it 2 inches? I have to get different u bolts correct?

The factory block is replaced with the 2" or 3" block. You do not stack the blocks and you do replace the u bolts. If you are using a level to lift your truck 3" you may also want to consider replacing your upper control arms. If your 3" front level is generated by more than one spacer you may consider removing one. If it is a one piece spacer then a block or adding a leaf will bring up the back.

Like Donstar said, I removed the original rear block. I think its about 1.25 inch's. So the rear 2 inch gave me an added .75 lift, which I feel it needs the 3 to be visually level. The motofab front is a solid piece. Fairly easy to install. Like donstar said UCA would be recommended just right now I hove the stock steels. With mine I love it. More aggressive looking, no noises or problems and the ride is still beautiful. All I really need is new rims and 33s to get that nice look. In time. Just a PSA, after the install...drive it for a week or so then go back around and check all your nuts and bolts for their proper tightness. My swaybar was a bit loose so I retightened it. I haven't had any adverse effects to the level. Ride, comfort, feel, are still mint. Definitely feel that higher up that I wanted. Just need steps, wheels, a tonnue, exhaust, tint, ect.... And a 6 inch lift lol
rintintin Enthusiast

rintintin

Posted
Posted

Rintintin can you post up a pictire or 2? Down the side and profile pic.

Please check my page. I posted some pics. I apologize for the delay. if you need pics at other angles please let me know

Like to see the same, checked his gallery but not good angles of stance and wheels/tires.

Please check my page. I posted some pics. I apologize for the delay. if you need pics at other angles please let me know

aggieguy03 Enthusiast

aggieguy03

Posted
Posted

This post and the post by patrick983 couldn't have came at a better time for me. I'm torn between these two sizes of this same tire with this same level kit. 275/65-20 or 285/65-20?!?!?

 

Aggieguy, could you possibly take an front angled pic and a straight on front pic and post?

 

Much thanks if you could!!

Here is a down the side shot, I'll see if I can snap a few more tomorrow.

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post-150848-0-99548100-1457926609.jpeg

post-150848-0-99548100-1457926609.jpeg

post-150848-0-99548100-1457926609.jpeg

aggieguy03 Enthusiast

aggieguy03

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

You wanted to make sure we saw this truck, so you posted it on three different threads! J/K :)

 

Get a bungee and turn your wheel all the way in either direction. Use the bungee to hold your steering (lightly) at full lock. Now look at the spacing between the back edge of your tire to the swaybar. Is it hitting? Go to the other side of the truck, and look at the spacing between the upper control arm (UCA) and the edge of your tire. Is it hitting? You can cut and tie-strap liner, but you can't do anything for swaybar or UCA rub except move towards neutral or negative offset. New rims or spacers...and we all know about spacers.

 

My fear on swaybar/UCA rub is that the tire is not very thick in the sidewall, so I don't want to wear that or heat it up and lead to a blowout. I'm running a 10.83" wide (275) tire, and at full lock with a +24 stock rim, I have 1/4" of UCA clearance at full lock....I have about 1" of swaybar clearance, but the swaybar has a curve to it, so a taller tire actually makes it worse. I was all set to go 295 or 305, but with only 1/4" clearance, it just ain't gonna happen. I'm even starting to have doubts a 285 won't hit. The best way to solve this problem is 0 offset rims on these trucks. Not sure it's worth it to me.....yet.

LOL, you got me :) I did post it on three, wanted to cover all the threads that helped make the decision. Not sure everyone was following all three.

 

At full lock, I'm clear of both the sway bar and UCAs on both sides. I have rubbed a few times driving today, and will investigate that in the light tomorrow. It wasn't vibrating the steering wheel at all, so it was not as bad as I thought it would be. I'm hopeful zip ties and done!

 

I think a 295 would be pushing it and a 305 would definitely rub both sway bar and UCAs on the stock wheels. I really would like to push them out a little, as I wanted to have just a bit outside the fender, but don't feel like making the investment just yet.

 

I loved the truck already, but now am really digging how good it looks. Especially when parked next to a stock version. I've got another 150 miles on it since the first day and am getting 17.1 on the highway on the DIC, so I'm happy so far.

Edited by aggieguy03
Fole75 Enthusiast

Fole75

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just curious, with getting new tires... I am going to run 2.5 level up front and add a leaf for the rear.. Was really looking at the cooper st maxx in 275/70r18.. Is it possible to go to the 295/70r18?? I want to keep my stock 18 wheels right now..would it be rubbing overload with the 295's with what set up I plan on... The 275's are cheaper...

 

I did search but I wanna keep the stock wheel (funds). But just want to fill out that wheel well..more and more I'm torn between the discoverer at3 and st maxx...

Edited by Fole75
bigsam94 Enthusiast

bigsam94

Posted
Posted

has anyone had any problems with wind noise after leveling their truck? i have a rc 2inch level and when theres a cross breeze on the highway it makes this crazy wind noise now

Costain44 Enthusiast

Costain44

Posted
Posted

I know this is repeating myself but I ordered my rims today and have to decide on tires. Going with either 275/55/20 or 275/60/20 ko2s. Just hopeing someone here has tried fitting the 275/60/20s with a 1.5" front level. I know ppl are running them on the 2" level but I really want to stick with the 1.5". I just can't seem to find anyone that can guarantee they'll fit. If anyone can help me out at all it's very much appreciated.

Jackseric Enthusiast

Jackseric

Posted
Posted

has anyone had any problems with wind noise after leveling their truck? i have a rc 2inch level and when theres a cross breeze on the highway it makes this crazy wind noise now

 

There is a TSB on door seals and door alignment that could be the solution to that, but I don't believe it has anything to do with a level.

bigsam94 Enthusiast

bigsam94

Posted
Posted

 

There is a TSB on door seals and door alignment that could be the solution to that, but I don't believe it has anything to do with a level.

 

There is a TSB on door seals and door alignment that could be the solution to that, but I don't believe it has anything to do with a level.

Do you know the tsb number?

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

I know this is repeating myself but I ordered my rims today and have to decide on tires. Going with either 275/55/20 or 275/60/20 ko2s. Just hopeing someone here has tried fitting the 275/60/20s with a 1.5" front level. I know ppl are running them on the 2" level but I really want to stick with the 1.5". I just can't seem to find anyone that can guarantee they'll fit. If anyone can help me out at all it's very much appreciated.

You'll be fine. There are guys running 275/60/20's with no lift or level at all, on stock rims. A 1.5" will give you plenty of room.

Jackseric Enthusiast

Jackseric

Posted
Posted

Do you know the tsb number?

 

Sorry I cannot find it. I found it posted on the forum here before but can't seem to find it now. Has to do with seals and replacement door pins and re-alignment of the doors.

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

Just curious, with getting new tires... I am going to run 2.5 level up front and add a leaf for the rear.. Was really looking at the cooper st maxx in 275/70r18.. Is it possible to go to the 295/70r18?? I want to keep my stock 18 wheels right now..would it be rubbing overload with the 295's with what set up I plan on... The 275's are cheaper...

 

I did search but I wanna keep the stock wheel (funds). But just want to fill out that wheel well..more and more I'm torn between the discoverer at3 and st maxx...

275s fit without level. Same with 285s on most 2014+.

 

295/70 fit with level if you tie strap, trim a lot, and can live with UCA and swaybar rub at full lock.

  • Like 1
twlander New Member

twlander

Posted
Posted

I am trying to install the 2.5" RC leveling kit and it says to disconnect the EPS connectors under the skid plate. Could anyone tell me which and where the connectors are located? I see way more than 3 different connectors and would really like to know so I can install it right and not mess anything up.

jsouth Enthusiast

jsouth

Posted
Posted

What is the best way to level a truck and not have a rough ride? I have a 2014 silverado. I have looked at spacer kits, coilovers, bilsteins, and suspension lifts. Bilstein 5100 seem to be popular but dont know if it would be enough lift and seen some comments that it is rough at highest setting. Looked at rancho quicklift and alot of comments say it is rough or regret it. A small suspension lift kit with shocks and uca replacement is starting to look like a better option for the money. Trying to keep from spending $2000+ on coilovers like king shocks. Any help would be appreciated.

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      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
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      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

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