2014+ Leveling Kits

bcbz71 · March 26, 2016

Any of you guys have any shortcuts or pointers on installing the lower blocks of the RC 2.5 level? Didn't find many good quality videos. This kit, as bad as I hate to say it, kicked my a$$ tonight! I got the top spacers in but I pretty much did everything short of disassembling the whole entire front end tonight.

After spending a few hours doing my AMP Research steps, I decided to tackle the level also... Now I wish I hadn't! I am admitting defeat and bowing out gracefully! I'm not new to suspension work, but its mostly been limited to coilovers on sports cars, never any lifts or levels.

Jack one side up and support with jackstands.

Take off tire.

Disconnect steering joint.

Disconnect brake line on upper control arm

Disconnect sway bar nut or at least back the nut off as far as you can.

Discconnect upper ball joint nut (UCA)

Discconnect top strut nuts

Discconnect bottom strut bolts and pry off nutplates and discard.

Put in top spacer but only put the nuts on top of the strut on very loosely so you have play for the bottom.

Put in the bottom spacer with bolts from the top--threads down. I remember having to pry a little to get the holes lined up, but not bad.

The hardest part to me was compressing the strut to get the upper ball joint nut started. I hooked a ratchet strap to the top of the strut and the lower control arm until I could get the ball joint nut (UCA) started.

http://www.silveradosierra.com/suspension/2-5-rc-level-kit-install-2014-gmc-sierra-t350650.html

gSwift · March 26, 2016

Jack one side up and support with jackstands.

Take off tire.

Disconnect steering joint.

Disconnect brake line on upper control arm

Disconnect sway bar nut or at least back the nut off as far as you can.

Discconnect upper ball joint nut (UCA)

Discconnect top strut nuts

Discconnect bottom strut bolts and pry off nutplates and discard.

Put in top spacer but only put the nuts on top of the strut on very loosely so you have play for the bottom.

Put in the bottom spacer with bolts from the top--threads down. I remember having to pry a little to get the holes lined up, but not bad.

The hardest part to me was compressing the strut to get the upper ball joint nut started. I hooked a ratchet strap to the top of the strut and the lower control arm until I could get the ball joint nut (UCA) started.

http://www.silveradosierra.com/suspension/2-5-rc-level-kit-install-2014-gmc-sierra-t350650.html

Thanks for the reply. Top spacers were no problem. It was the rear bolt by the axle that had me kinda baffled. The directions said something like, you may have to move the knuckle to one side to gain clearance from the axle, or something like that. The lower control arm was bottomed out as low as it would go, and there's no moving the axle. I'm about ready to just have it done somewhere. I live out in the country so all my friends are 50 plus miles away. So needless to say, I was pretty frustrated! Edited March 26, 2016 by gSwift

arkenzo · March 26, 2016

Just front spacer.

Did you get a wheel alignment after? Was it necessary for just the top spacer?

2fst4u · March 26, 2016

I used the readylift video on YouTube. It is simple video on how to put there 2.25 leveling kit on but very similar to the rc kit. Took me about 3 hours from start to finish.

2fst4u · March 26, 2016

Did this on my 2014 and now my 2016 gmc sierra.

2fst4u · March 26, 2016

Sorry forgot to say I used this video to do my rc kit on the 16 gm and worked like a charm.

gSwift · March 26, 2016

Well, the ready lift video showed me everything except for the lower block installation...which is what I need. The bolt by the axle seems so long that I see no way of getting the bolt in. I can get it in from the bottom up all day long. I'm beyond frustrated trying to get this lower block in.

arkenzo · March 27, 2016

Well, the ready lift video showed me everything except for the lower block installation...which is what I need. The bolt by the axle seems so long that I see no way of getting the bolt in. I can get it in from the bottom up all day long. I'm beyond frustrated trying to get this lower block in.

Show pics of what you are working with please. I've installed a full RC 2.5 on my previous 2014 Silverado and I managed to do it all with simple tools and a 1/2 ton floor jack lol, i'm willing to guide you but would need to see what you're seeing.

gSwift · March 27, 2016

Show pics of what you are working with please. I've installed a full RC 2.5 on my previous 2014 Silverado and I managed to do it all with simple tools and a 1/2 ton floor jack lol, i'm willing to guide you but would need to see what you're seeing.

I appreciate the offer and the replies, but I called it quits and put the front end back together. As I mentioned before, i'm certainly not new to suspension work, but this one got the best of me. I'll take it to a local off road shop as bad as I hate to.

gSwift · March 27, 2016

Show pics of what you are working with please. I've installed a full RC 2.5 on my previous 2014 Silverado and I managed to do it all with simple tools and a 1/2 ton floor jack lol, i'm willing to guide you but would need to see what you're seeing.

But just to try and clear up what I'm saying. The main thing that was giving me trouble was mounting the bottom block on the bottom of the shock. I calls to put the new bolt in from the top side, and I can get the bolt in on the hole nearest to the front of the truck. But the back hole of the shock is almost directly under the axle. Therefore the is trying to go in at a hard angle but the head of the bolt is hitting the axle.

Tim Rasmussen · March 27, 2016

But just to try and clear up what I'm saying. The main thing that was giving me trouble was mounting the bottom block on the bottom of the shock. I calls to put the new bolt in from the top side, and I can get the bolt in on the hole nearest to the front of the truck. But the back hole of the shock is almost directly under the axle. Therefore the is trying to go in at a hard angle but the head of the bolt is hitting the axle.

All bolts I put in on my readylift kit had them going in from the bottom up. This allowed for me to reuse the threaded clips that are connected to the shocks that act like a nut you could say. So for u to put them in from the top down makes me wonder how you would be able to use the factory threaded clip? Did the send nuts to go on the bottom of the spindle?

I would suggest putting the bolt in from the bottom up. My two cents.

gSwift · March 27, 2016

All bolts I put in on my readylift kit had them going in from the bottom up. This allowed for me to reuse the threaded clips that are connected to the shocks that act like a nut you could say. So for u to put them in from the top down makes me wonder how you would be able to use the factory threaded clip? Did the send nuts to go on the bottom of the spindle?

I would suggest putting the bolt in from the bottom up. My two cents.

You don't use the threaded clip on the RC kit. You just pop the clips off and then they supply you with new bolts and nuts. Your kit sounds like it makes more sense. And I could go in from the bottom, but the bolt is so long and the lock nut so thick that its jamming into the bottom of the axle.

Guess i'll just leave it to the pro's haha

Edited March 27, 2016 by gSwift

bcbz71 · March 27, 2016

You don't use the threaded clip on the RC kit. You just pop the clips off and then they supply you with new bolts and nuts. Your kit sounds like it makes more sense. And I could go in from the bottom, but the bolt is so long and the lock nut so thick that its jamming into the bottom of the axle.

Guess i'll just leave it to the pro's haha

The bolts have to go in from the top. I think the problem is that you didn't take off the UCA nut completely and drop the hub.. I had the same issue. I tried to leave it on by one thread and pry the lower spacer in under the strut. Once you take the UCA nut off and the steering tie rod end off, you can articulate the hub any direction you want to get the bolt in.

As I think about it, I may have done the bottom spacer before the top spacer. The first side took me forever it seemed, but the second side was like 30 minutes total.

Here is my strut down before I took off the UCA and dropped it completely.

Edited March 27, 2016 by bcbz71

gSwift · March 27, 2016

The bolts have to go in from the top. I think the problem is that you didn't take off the UCA nut completely and drop the hub.. I had the same issue. I tried to leave it on by one thread and pry the lower spacer in under the strut. Once you take the UCA nut off and the steering tie rod end off, you can articulate the hub any direction you want to get the bolt in.

As I think about it, I may have done the bottom spacer before the top spacer. The first side took me forever it seemed, but the second side was like 30 minutes total.

Here is my strut down before I took off the UCA and dropped it completely.

That may indeed be the issue. I was leaving the UCA nut attached, and by more than a thread or two. It seems as if I had watched a video where they took a couple of shortcuts and left that nut attached. But now that I think about it, I believe they went in from the bottom with the new bolts on the lower spacer.

Thanks for the reply! I think i'll give this one more try before I give up.

If only I had followed the directions word for word