Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

Truck looks great, did you have to any trimming or do you have any rubbing going on with the new setup. Looking at doing a similar setup on my truck.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

I have the very slightest rub in reverse at full lock. It touches the bottom fender corner trim piece oh so slightly. I'm

Not even going to bother with it.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

mnm99 Enthusiast

mnm99

Posted
Posted

Theoretically you could, but you're going to bottom out your shocks a lot quicker since they're not extended travel shocks.

 

Upgrade to an extended/lifted version of the 5100 and you should be fine w/ aftermarket UCAs.

Your CV shafts won't like it. Everyone always talks about shocks and ball joints. The CV shafts are supposed to be level. Witham 2.5 or 3 inch take a look how off they are. Now turn your wheel and hit a big bump, they are at really bad angles.

obfirefighter22 Enthusiast

obfirefighter22

Posted
Posted (edited)

Man this thread has got a lot longer.

 

Question, I did the RC level on my 2015 that came with the blocks for the back and spacers that went above the coil over and spacer below strut. To me thinking about the geometry of everything it was perfect.

 

Fast forward to now, fixing to help a buddy do his ram. His assembly looks identical. Now rough country makes you compress the coil over and add the spacer there which seems a$$ backwards. Went to look at mine and also pull it up on their website. On the website they don't offer the same kit now. Is there a reason they changed it up? I'm sure y'all have spoken about it but there's 340+ pages in this thread now.

Edited by advancedrescue
Silveradoh Enthusiast

Silveradoh

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I was shopping around for a 2.5" leveling kit from RC for my 2017 Silverado 1500 and haven't come across anything but 2". Do they usually release them later than the 2" versions? Or do people have any recommendations in the same price range for a 2.5" leveling kit. I would like to get that little bit of extra clearance from the 2.5" if I can.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I was shopping around for a 2.5" leveling kit from RC for my 2017 Silverado 1500 and haven't come across anything but 2". Do they usually release them later than the 2" versions? Or do people have any recommendations in the same price range for a 2.5" leveling kit. I would like to get that little bit of extra clearance from the 2.5" if I can.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

I just happened to see this and already have the page open. http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1305-10.html

pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

Thank you! Don't know how I missed it, kept coming across the 2" kit.

Probably because they listed it under the suspension lift section instead of the level lift section.

  • Like 1
pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be putting on a set of 20x9 +1 with 305/55 's. For the level, I see everyone suggests sticking with a 2" as 2.5" causes some extreme angles. Is there any real difference between the Round spacers that go on top and the U shapped ones that go on bottom besides location and shape?

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be putting on a set of 20x9 +1 with 305/55 's. For the level, I see everyone suggests sticking with a 2" as 2.5" causes some extreme angles. Is there any real difference between the Round spacers that go on top and the U shapped ones that go on bottom besides location and shape?

2" level is that bottom "U" shape only. To get 2.5 they add a 1/2" spacer on top of the coil spring. Requires disassembly of the strut. My setup is in my sig, the extra 1/2" wasn't worth the hassle for me. My truck has almost exactly 1" of rake

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

to the guys whom have installed the 2.5" themselves, do you think its possible to just compress the spring while its on the truck and install the upper spacer? or does the entire strut have to be disassembled right down?

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

2" level is that bottom "U" shape only. To get 2.5 they add a 1/2" spacer on top of the coil spring. Requires disassembly of the strut. My setup is in my sig, the extra 1/2" wasn't worth the hassle for me. My truck has almost exactly 1" of rake

 

I put out some bad information earlier and I don't want to confuse anybody. Apparently, the 2016+ top spacer goes in differently than my 2014.

Edited by bcbz71
Chevy181 Enthusiast

Chevy181

Posted
Posted

I just installed the 2.5" RC on my 2017 Z71 and even though the pictures showed a spacer for the top, it is actually a ring that goes in the strut. It has to be disassembled to be put in. FYI, I didn't need to add the rear blocks for the leveled look. If you want to buy the parts without the blocks, you can save a few bucks.ffd332db4f4bfad41d4a3d3660d81a57.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930R7 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted (edited)

On the 16+ trucks it doesn't go on top anymore. Two seperate part numbers now, and I've even called rough country to verify that. Stamped arms (16+) now get the spacer on top of coilspring, not on top of the strut top mount.

 

 

1/2" spacer does not go on top of the coil spring, it goes on top of the strut assembly.

 

Top spacer does not require disassembly of the strut assembly. Requires taking off 3 nuts on top of the strut housing and strut comes out as a complete assembly, then you put the spacer on top and put the nuts back on. Maybe 15 minutes....could be 30 if you are slow with an open end wrench.

Edited by Criscone
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

My 2" front level is finally settled, and my rear is 3/4" higher than the front. Perfect! However I did just buy a 1.5" zone body lift for a little extra.

BSME1115 Enthusiast

BSME1115

Posted
Posted (edited)

My 2" front level is finally settled, and my rear is 3/4" higher than the front. Perfect! However I did just buy a 1.5" zone body lift for a little extra.

Installed mine yesterday. Also 3/4" difference. Looks much better! Edited by BSME1115

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,475 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...