Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

KJS Sullivan Enthusiast

KJS Sullivan

Posted
Posted

I have a 2in front leveler. Everything seems fine except on low speeds parking lot type areas I notice a banging sound and or heavier than normal vibration then the parking lot or road should give.

I put some spacers on the truck while the wheels were removed I noticed the upper control arm resting on what appears to be a stop of some sort. Having looked at some new vehicles over the weekend I notice there looks like there's about an inch space between these upper control arms and the stop. Here is a picture of what I have. The dealer installed these when the truck was new. Were they installed wrong? Should they be sitting on the stop?

Thanks for any advice or comments, I may be putting on a regular 3 inch lift anyway but I don't want to run into any more problems with a rough ride or a heavy banging rattle noise from the front end.

The first picture is a three-quarter ton at the Dealer's unmodified

The second picture is my driver side, there is really no gap between the underside of that upper arm and the stop.5570f53f30153858f5f6561e7c15637e.jpgefb3a5eaf8e572835e0767ea881f6b5b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Tyy1907 Enthusiast

Tyy1907

Posted
Posted
On 03/09/2018 at 9:11 PM, KJS Sullivan said:

I have a 2in front leveler. Everything seems fine except on low speeds parking lot type areas I notice a banging sound and or heavier than normal vibration then the parking lot or road should give.

I put some spacers on the truck while the wheels were removed I noticed the upper control arm resting on what appears to be a stop of some sort. Having looked at some new vehicles over the weekend I notice there looks like there's about an inch space between these upper control arms and the stop. Here is a picture of what I have. The dealer installed these when the truck was new. Were they installed wrong? Should they be sitting on the stop?

Thanks for any advice or comments, I may be putting on a regular 3 inch lift anyway but I don't want to run into any more problems with a rough ride or a heavy banging rattle noise from the front end.

The first picture is a three-quarter ton at the Dealer's unmodified

The second picture is my driver side, there is really no gap between the underside of that upper arm and the stop.5570f53f30153858f5f6561e7c15637e.jpgefb3a5eaf8e572835e0767ea881f6b5b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Did u get wheel alignment after level put in?  Verify that with ur dealer cause that can cause vibration. 

 

Level kit will reduce clearance between UCA and bump stop which means limited down travel so if u hit a speed bump bit too fast it could clunk and hit the stop.  I think my bump stop has a rubber piece un it but I dont see one in urs

MikeMartino Enthusiast

MikeMartino

Posted
Posted
On 8/27/2018 at 7:37 PM, mrskiff said:

Debaged and tinted. Could be a bit cleaner but wanted to snap some pics. 2.25" level.50e078a4c8e6c2aee21deb414d539f3e.jpgf1f35f78a668cc3db2528e2e7430f96c.jpg0de4a89495295a738e4d700b9717105e.jpg52f81c5e8f03665b91904df23e9eb464.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

Looks great!  Looks like mine that I just had debagded and chrome deleted. 

Screenshot_20180908-204048_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20180908-204037_Gallery.jpg

spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
Posted
On 8/27/2018 at 7:37 PM, mrskiff said:

Debaged and tinted. Could be a bit cleaner but wanted to snap some pics. 2.25" level.50e078a4c8e6c2aee21deb414d539f3e.jpgf1f35f78a668cc3db2528e2e7430f96c.jpg0de4a89495295a738e4d700b9717105e.jpg52f81c5e8f03665b91904df23e9eb464.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

looks great!  If you wanted to completely debadge, you might consider getting some either blue or black vinyl and covering the Z in the grill...maybe even the 71 too...I color matched mine in black and personally really like it...not a tough job at all.

  • Like 1
Jorge Garcilazo New Member

Jorge Garcilazo

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra z71 single cab short bed. Any recommendations on a leveling kit and some tires that will clear on stock 18s? And also would I have to change out any parts while I'm doing the leveling kit to avoid future problems. The truck is currently all stock . Any help? Please and thank you

spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, Jorge Garcilazo said:

I have a 2014 Sierra z71 single cab short bed. Any recommendations on a leveling kit and some tires that will clear on stock 18s? And also would I have to change out any parts while I'm doing the leveling kit to avoid future problems. The truck is currently all stock . Any help? Please and thank you

I have a RC 2" front level, stock rear...I also put BFG KO2 285/65 on my stock 18" rims and for me, it is all I need and the look I wanted...no rubbing.  you can scroll though this thread though and find dozens and dozens of opinions.

SNAFU88 Enthusiast

SNAFU88

Posted
Posted

Didn't care for the nose-high appearance of the truck with the 2" level so I installed the 2 inch rear block to give it a bit of rake again.  Subtle difference but just enough to fix the problem. Before and after:

 

80-_img_2218_e5853e5f6a94e36608f0f7f4897

 

80-_rearblock_624115fe5289acb3707d038cd4

 

 

  • Like 2
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I have a 2in front leveler. Everything seems fine except on low speeds parking lot type areas I notice a banging sound and or heavier than normal vibration then the parking lot or road should give.

I put some spacers on the truck while the wheels were removed I noticed the upper control arm resting on what appears to be a stop of some sort. Having looked at some new vehicles over the weekend I notice there looks like there's about an inch space between these upper control arms and the stop. Here is a picture of what I have. The dealer installed these when the truck was new. Were they installed wrong? Should they be sitting on the stop?

Thanks for any advice or comments, I may be putting on a regular 3 inch lift anyway but I don't want to run into any more problems with a rough ride or a heavy banging rattle noise from the front end.

The first picture is a three-quarter ton at the Dealer's unmodified

The second picture is my driver side, there is really no gap between the underside of that upper arm and the stop.5570f53f30153858f5f6561e7c15637e.jpgefb3a5eaf8e572835e0767ea881f6b5b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk




What type of wheel spacers did you get? The good ones have the hub centric ring either milled or attached so you don’t get the clunking sound especially at sudden impact. Dangerous without hub rings too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I have a 2014 Sierra z71 single cab short bed. Any recommendations on a leveling kit and some tires that will clear on stock 18s? And also would I have to change out any parts while I'm doing the leveling kit to avoid future problems. The truck is currently all stock . Any help? Please and thank you

Bilstein leveling shocks up front for more budget oriented or my preferred billet aluminum front 2.25” top and lower strut mounts plus a 1” in rear. I prefer the aluminum billet spacers from 4wheelparts and then later buy Bilstein front and rear 5100’s. Reason I don’t like the leveling shock is cause you’re screwed if it goes out on you with larger tires but you’d be fine if the shock went out on you with installed billet aluminum spacers, just get new shocks. You’ve got the 14 model which doesn’t have the cursed new stamped steel UCA’s (upper control arms) that cause your tires to rub them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
b4ef54435f785b88df55e9cacbf9bcde.jpg
Before. Already leveled with 2.25” pro comp.

c5a66a8874412d4136b3ce45aaa108bf.jpg88d1e78614f8a041d809c450924c8d8f.jpg
After getting 285/65R18 on stock wheels and NFAB side steps for the wife.

Pretty happy with how she came out.


I’ve got same level, added a 1” billet aluminum spacer in rear and made a big difference, may help with your mpg’s too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jorge Garcilazo New Member

Jorge Garcilazo

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, SNAFU88 said:

Didn't care for the nose-high appearance of the truck with the 2" level so I installed the 2 inch rear block to give it a bit of rake again.  Subtle difference but just enough to fix the problem. Before and after:

 

80-_img_2218_e5853e5f6a94e36608f0f7f4897

 

80-_rearblock_624115fe5289acb3707d038cd4

 

 

What size tire you running and wheel

spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, SNAFU88 said:

Didn't care for the nose-high appearance of the truck with the 2" level so I installed the 2 inch rear block to give it a bit of rake again.  Subtle difference but just enough to fix the problem. Before and after:

 

80-_img_2218_e5853e5f6a94e36608f0f7f4897

 

80-_rearblock_624115fe5289acb3707d038cd4

 

 

2" still has a slight rake...
 

SNAFU88 Enthusiast

SNAFU88

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, spenpet said:

2" still has a slight rake...
 

It does BUT the top of the hood line is higher than the top of the bed line and it creates the illusion that the truck is nose high.  Especially when the truck is on even a very slight incline.   

Tyy1907 Enthusiast

Tyy1907

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, SNAFU88 said:

Didn't care for the nose-high appearance of the truck with the 2" level so I installed the 2 inch rear block to give it a bit of rake again.  Subtle difference but just enough to fix the problem. Before and after:

 

80-_img_2218_e5853e5f6a94e36608f0f7f4897

 

80-_rearblock_624115fe5289acb3707d038cd4

 

 

What brandc2" block did u go with?

No vibrations?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,100 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...