Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, David solar said:

Hey guys first time posting on this thread but I got a 3 inch Motofab lift in the front and I got 3 inch blocks in the rear well I don’t like rake that I have and I want it to be perfectly level now and I took measurents with my gas tank empty and full and there’s a quarter inch difference I will include a pic of the measurements but I cant decide if I should go with 1.50 rear blocks or 1.75 and tapered or not tapered 79F4B0FD-3C91-45E0-94EA-DE2BF23AE74F.thumb.png.f16f3f187cde66ffb9bcb9cc53d4f75f.pngFC9E31F1-859F-4275-9B96-7E1887287204.thumb.jpeg.3e47c4e9532c1b2ad1ef780493e91bb9.jpeg

1.75...if not, you will be blinding people half the time...a slight rake is better than a slight endo...

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

JamesAT18 Enthusiast

JamesAT18

Posted
Posted
On 7/20/2018 at 12:46 AM, CH15GMC said:

I've read this whole post and went back a few time but still have a few questions. 

 

I'm going to be putting on some Bilstein 6112 shocks on the top level with a .5" upper spacer for about 2.25" lift. I really want to go with 275/65R20 BFG KO2's. I'm also looking at some Fuel Maverick 20x9 wheels and not sure if I can get away with the +1 offset or if I should go with +20. I want the wheels/tires to stick out just a little past the fender but also don't want any rubbing. 

 

With that all said, do you think can I do the +1 with the 275/65's? Or should I go with the +20 offset with 275/65's? Or are the 275/65 to much and I should go with 275/60's? 

 

Appreciate your input...just want to do this once! Truck info in signature. 

I'm curious to if you would have any issues with your UCA's with the additional spacer with 6112s

nmyron Enthusiast

nmyron

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, spenpet said:

1.75...if not, you will be blinding people half the time...a slight rake is better than a slight endo...

To @spenpet's point, no matter what way you go, adjust your headlights after simply to make sure your light is going where it needs to be, and you're not blinding oncoming drivers

 

 

  • Like 1
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

15’ denali w/ magnaride - added an RC 2” level up front. Rear is 1” taller than front, which is perfect for me. Rides smooth, no issues. Here’s a before and after.

 

 

7c539095d501a8111d52cb9c6547f0b2.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Cf1k1 Enthusiast

Cf1k1

Posted
Posted

Cross posting this from the lowering pinned thread if anyone is interested:

 

I got the Belltech 2" lowering shackles put on. Personally, I left the 1.25" blocks on the axle to keep a short rake just in case I choose to get another boat again or something of the like. 

 

Installation was pretty straight forward. I'm fortunate enough to have a friend with a two post lift. We removed the OEM hitch and then began breaking down the rear shackles. Being it was on a lift with only one large floor jack, we choose to gain clearance over the frame rails by disconnecting the bottom shackle bolt and lowering the truck onto the floor to lift the top shackle bolt above the frame. Right away we ran into a problem in that the bed seam was contacting the shackle. Back up in the air and some taps with a ball peen hammer, the bed seam was folded over and it was smooth sailing from there. Final measurements came down to 1.25" higher in the rear which I was okay with as aforementioned. Total install time with a two post lift from hitch removal to hitch installation was 2hrs 15 min with two people and mostly hand tools. Will post pics tomorrow. 

 

*EDIT*

Also, I used to have this obnoxious ever so slight shake in the seats at highway speeds. Wasn't the typical GM shake that has been documented but something that bugged the hell out of me. That shake has also been resolved and the butttest attributes that to the lowering the truck a touch. Additionally, the ATROCIOUS leaf spring creek is gone as well. That could from getting some weight off the springs with the truck in the air but I doubt it (never noticed it resolving after an oil change). Time will tell. 

  • Like 1
jegreenwood14 Enthusiast

jegreenwood14

Posted
Posted
On 8/6/2018 at 9:50 PM, Cf1k1 said:

Cross posting this from the lowering pinned thread if anyone is interested:

 

I got the Belltech 2" lowering shackles put on. Personally, I left the 1.25" blocks on the axle to keep a short rake just in case I choose to get another boat again or something of the like. 

 

Installation was pretty straight forward. I'm fortunate enough to have a friend with a two post lift. We removed the OEM hitch and then began breaking down the rear shackles. Being it was on a lift with only one large floor jack, we choose to gain clearance over the frame rails by disconnecting the bottom shackle bolt and lowering the truck onto the floor to lift the top shackle bolt above the frame. Right away we ran into a problem in that the bed seam was contacting the shackle. Back up in the air and some taps with a ball peen hammer, the bed seam was folded over and it was smooth sailing from there. Final measurements came down to 1.25" higher in the rear which I was okay with as aforementioned. Total install time with a two post lift from hitch removal to hitch installation was 2hrs 15 min with two people and mostly hand tools. Will post pics tomorrow. 

 

*EDIT*

Also, I used to have this obnoxious ever so slight shake in the seats at highway speeds. Wasn't the typical GM shake that has been documented but something that bugged the hell out of me. That shake has also been resolved and the butttest attributes that to the lowering the truck a touch. Additionally, the ATROCIOUS leaf spring creek is gone as well. That could from getting some weight off the springs with the truck in the air but I doubt it (never noticed it resolving after an oil change). Time will tell. 

Stock front end?  Were you leveled in the front before deciding to go 2" drop in the rear?  Didn't know if you had experience with the ride of both, and which is better.

rae185 Enthusiast

rae185

Posted
Posted

I have a 2017 silverado 1500 LT Z71, I Want to get a level kit i have been looking around and i like the motofab and the rough county kits. Inexpensive and seems to be easy enough to install. My question is do i have to have certain UCA? what kind of issues would i run into with a 2" inch level kit? I dont want to cause ride issues or make anything wear out faster i just want the aesthetics of having the front end up alittle bit higher to clear for a 33" inch tire and an 18 wheel.

 

Whats the better of the Two Motofab? They are about the same in price i just want to lift the front without my warranty being removed and dont want parts to wear out faster.

20180526_205149.jpg

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
I have a 2017 silverado 1500 LT Z71, I Want to get a level kit i have been looking around and i like the motofab and the rough county kits. Inexpensive and seems to be easy enough to install. My question is do i have to have certain UCA? what kind of issues would i run into with a 2" inch level kit? I dont want to cause ride issues or make anything wear out faster i just want the aesthetics of having the front end up alittle bit higher to clear for a 33" inch tire and an 18 wheel.

 

Whats the better of the Two Motofab? They are about the same in price i just want to lift the front without my warranty being removed and dont want parts to wear out faster.

20180526_205149.thumb.jpg.6b1a7117556985e5d398e87990628ba1.jpg

 

Any modification with bigger tires could void your warranty for any suspension/steering related parts, just depends on the dealer and how they deal with GM. If you do it, you're taking that risk.

 

That being said, I have the RC 2" level with 295/70/17 (33.2" or something) and it's great. It was like $140 installed and didn't change the ride too much. Between RC and motofab, just pick the cheapest one, they're both fine

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cf1k1 Enthusiast

Cf1k1

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, jegreenwood14 said:

Stock front end?  Were you leveled in the front before deciding to go 2" drop in the rear?  Didn't know if you had experience with the ride of both, and which is better.

Yes. Stock front end. In the Leveling Kit thread and amongst other forums, I kept seeing pictures of broken balljoints so it worried me doing the leveling kit. I also have the GM 22" rims so I think stuffing the rear tire that whole 2" cleaned up the rear end a lot.

jegreenwood14 Enthusiast

jegreenwood14

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Cf1k1 said:

Yes. Stock front end. In the Leveling Kit thread and amongst other forums, I kept seeing pictures of broken balljoints so it worried me doing the leveling kit. I also have the GM 22" rims so I think stuffing the rear tire that whole 2" cleaned up the rear end a lot.

Could you tell a difference in the rear ride after dropping it?  Like did it make it rougher or?

Cf1k1 Enthusiast

Cf1k1

Posted
Posted
On 8/10/2018 at 2:07 PM, jegreenwood14 said:

Could you tell a difference in the rear ride after dropping it?  Like did it make it rougher or?

I surely did. I had an annoying shimmy in the seats at highway speeds... not as bed as the typical GM shake some trucks have, but I noticed it. With lowering the rear end, the truck now rides smooth as glass.

Dirt-Rado Enthusiast

Dirt-Rado

Posted
Posted

King coilover replacements with deaver rear mini pack and removal of the 1” block running 285/70/17 Falkens

Second picture is with 315/70/17 BFG’s same lift, with trimming. It rubs, but I have a Baja kits upper and lower kit coming next week to solve that problem.
39bbd4440f45c3ac2e3a5b448a71cfe6.jpgfa3efac63277d605c3bfde9d2fb18e19.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,950
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Policeoff01
    Newest Member
    Policeoff01
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 788 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By Another JR · Posted

      On 2021 3500hd it consistently sets automatically when selecting park if the incline/decline is above a certain angle. 
    • Policeoff01
      Feeling Vibration and Jiggles in 2024 HD Gasser Steering Wheel

      By Policeoff01 · Posted

      Curious, did anyone ever get a fix for the vibration reported here.   I have a 2024 Silverado with 6.6 duramax.   I’m noting the same vibration resonating up through the steering shaft into the steering wheel.    Best way to describe- like someone is tapping on the steering shaft/components and it’s resonating into the steering wheel.    thanks. 
    • Gkistler
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By Gkistler · Posted

      Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...