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2014+ Leveling Kits


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So got a question my neighbor has a 2.25” ready lift leveling kit that was on an 2012 Sierra it says it will fit my 2018 Silverado 1500. The question I have is that it says the 2017+ trucks had stamped upper control arms and are prone to ball joint failure when leveled or lifted. Does anyone have any knowledge on this? Also I guess the solution is new upper control arms what’s everyone’s favorite replacement.


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I was absolutely going for a leveling kit, but my dealer said it would most likely void my warranty on anything associated with the front suspension, so I’m holding off for at least a little while. Love the looks of the 2 inch kits.  I was told, from a friend, there are factory leveling kits for the 2500 s with plow packages. Not sure if this is correct, but seems a little hypocritical that GM supports such a factory package for the 2500 but states it will void aspects of the warranty on the 1500s. I could be wrong though. 

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I was absolutely going for a leveling kit, but my dealer said it would most likely void my warranty on anything associated with the front suspension, so I’m holding off for at least a little while. Love the looks of the 2 inch kits.  I was told, from a friend, there are factory leveling kits for the 2500 s with plow packages. Not sure if this is correct, but seems a little hypocritical that GM supports such a factory package for the 2500 but states it will void aspects of the warranty on the 1500s. I could be wrong though. 


Almost every dealer around here takes the trucks off the lots and sends them to the local tire shop to get levels and new wheels/tires. I would be very surprised if they voided your warranty with a 2" level


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9 minutes ago, jgraves13 said:

 


Almost every dealer around here takes the trucks off the lots and sends them to the local tire shop to get levels and new wheels/tires. I would be very surprised if they voided your warranty with a 2" level


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I called three dealerships. One said it voids everything, and two said “it’s complicated.” One was very honest in saying not necessarily, but it potentially makes your path to warranty claims around suspension issues much more complicated. At least that one was honest. 

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Maybe Im overthinking this but, any ideas on how to determine if my wheels will fit going from 2.5” down to 2”?

 

Thinking about upgrading to Fox 2.0 coilovers from the 2.5” spacer kit, but since I already had the rear of the front fender trimmed, I dont want to be rubbing again.

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Maybe Im overthinking this but, any ideas on how to determine if my wheels will fit going from 2.5” down to 2”?
 
Thinking about upgrading to Fox 2.0 coilovers from the 2.5” spacer kit, but since I already had the rear of the front fender trimmed, I dont want to be rubbing again.


What size tires? Shouldn't be too much of a difference


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Goal of my upgrades was to have a better "stock" look, not void my factory warranty (still some risk), and actually have a truck that could go down a fairly rocky dirt road such as in a National Park.  Stock truck rode perfectly on pavement but off-road bounced so much that it felt like the truck was ripping itself, and me, apart at just 20 mph.  What I ended up doing is like what GM is now doing with their "Trail Boss" package (package has 2" lift, 33" tires, Off-road struts/shocks, skid plate, Eaton locker rear end--I think).  This forum was key to helping me and I want to give back and hope it helps others in any possible way.  Other site I used was "CustomOffsets.com" gallery--I tried posting these photos there recently but they no longer allow "stocker" truck postings.

 

Summary:  Bilstein 5100s front (highest setting) and rear.  Stock rear blocks.  Toyo MT Load Range "E" model (exactly 33 x 12.7 per Toyo site).  Stock GMC rims (18 x 8.5; +24mm offset; NO spacers). 

 

Bilsteins:  I got 1.5 inch lift in the front (others are reporting getting more than that).  It would look better to me with another 3/4" but I got what I got and don't want to add anything other than the Bilsteins due to my GM warranty concerns.  Bilsteins eliminate the body roll in turns, take bigger dips great, and have cut my dirt road driving bounce in half versus stock--they ride fine on highways at speed also.  Given the Toyo MTs have such deep tread and have some "tire squirm" in higher speed turns (ex: highway entrance ramp), the elimination of body roll with Bilsteins is very helpful to keep the truck "planted" so it doesn't feel like it will get away from you.  I also think the Bilsteins are better for the suspension because the Toyo MTs weigh twice as much as the stock tires and the Bilsteins handle that weight better. 

 

Toyo MTs:  I have not had any rub except for on the liner on the passenger side and it was only at full lock--one zip tie fixed that.  I have at least 1/2 inch clearance on sway bar and upper control arms in all directions at full lock and with the suspension "articulated" as in an off-road situation.  For you tire shoppers, I did NOT have to do any NorCal mod and do NOT have any rubbing, but if the tire diameter was any greater than 33", I would have had one point of contact on the driver side at full lock with suspension articulated--again, I have no rubbing with what I bought.  Each of these trucks seem to have slight build variations.  Some folks report using greater diameter tires but my truck would have an issue with any bigger diameter tire.  It is critical to look at the exact tire specs for each tire considered on the respective manufacturers website as well--one might be labeled 33 x 12.5 but only be 12" wide.  For looks, I wanted a "wide" tire also along with that aggressive and functional tread design (I do not tow and am never in snow) and sidewall puncture resistance.  Never had off-road tires before and was surprised at how fine the Toyo MT rides, even at 80 mph (I am a lifetime Michelin LTX guy before this as comparison).  Tires have triple ply sidewalls and the tread is beautiful but it does burn off quicker than you would like it to--you gotta pay to play.

 

 

 

 

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Edited by TNAZ
Inserting .jpg rather than .pdf
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These photos make the truck look slightly more level than it really is--front is actually lower than rear (1.75 inch rake) but I couldn't add any more photos to this post--if you want one, let me know.  I am going to remove the stock rear blocks soon (1.25 inch rake reduction) to see how it looks--if I hate the look -or- the ride (rear shocks impact), I will put them back in--I'll post photo if it looks better after the blocks are out.

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Just got the ready lift front 2.25 level with upper control arms and the rear 2.25 blocks installed. Left about an inch rake, which I think looks good and wont look silly under a load. Wheels and tires should be in next week!

 

Before & After

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On 6/30/2018 at 10:53 AM, jgraves13 said:

 


Almost every dealer around here takes the trucks off the lots and sends them to the local tire shop to get levels and new wheels/tires. I would be very surprised if they voided your warranty with a 2" level


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It isn't the dealers it is GM (and the dealers want to get paid for their warranty work). They are (GM) getting very stingy and cracking down on modifications and paying for repairs on parts that have been impacted by mods, it is one of the first things they are directed to look for before proceeding with a repair. A spacer very much voids part of your warranty for those parts that are affected. Ditto with big rims and heavy large tires with big offsets. You have to pay to play.

 

Tyler

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It isn't the dealers it is GM (and the dealers want to get paid for their warranty work). They are (GM) getting very stingy and cracking down on modifications and paying for repairs on parts that have been impacted by mods, it is one of the first things they are directed to look for before proceeding with a repair. A spacer very much voids part of your warranty for those parts that are affected. Ditto with big rims and heavy large tires with big offsets. You have to pay to play.
 
Tyler


Well then here's to hoping the ball joints last [emoji481]


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I still have not diagnosed my "knock" noise since installing 2" front level.  I chose the "donut" style spacer that mounts to the shock upper. 

My noise is a single knock when traveling slow that sounds like something is shifting on the driver side when going from forward to reverse. 

I am beginning to think I possibly did not grind the factory bolts flush with the top of the new spacer and there may be a small gap that is allowing a forward / backward shift. 

My next plan is to completely take apart the driver side and start over.

Any opinions? 

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